Made Here
La Frontière
Season 20 Episode 8 | 36m 49sVideo has Closed Captions
La Frontière is a poetic documentary portrait of Maine’s border with Canada
La Frontière is a poetic documentary portrait of Maine’s borderlands. Through interviews, vérité moments and scenic landscapes, the film explores the history and culture of the six-hundred and eleven mile-long border between Maine and Canada.
Made Here is a local public television program presented by Vermont Public
Sponsored in part by the John M. Bissell Foundation, Inc. | Learn about the Made Here Fund
Made Here
La Frontière
Season 20 Episode 8 | 36m 49sVideo has Closed Captions
La Frontière is a poetic documentary portrait of Maine’s borderlands. Through interviews, vérité moments and scenic landscapes, the film explores the history and culture of the six-hundred and eleven mile-long border between Maine and Canada.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship-Hi, I'm -Eric Ford for Made Here -New Hampshire filmmakers -Katie Haas and Megan Ruff.
-Take a look at Canadian -American border histories -and tradition -in La Frontière, -focusing in on Maine.
-This poetic documentary -explores -the history and culture -of the over -600 mile long border -between Maine and Canada.
-It's easy -to see the similarities -with our own northern border -here in Vermont.
-You can watch LA frontier -and other great made here -films -streaming on our website -and through the PBS app.
-Enjoy the film -and thanks for watching.
-Living between cultures -results in seeing double -first from the perspective -of one culture.
-Then from the perspective -of another -removed.
-You glimpse the sea in which -you've been immersed, -but to -which you were oblivious.
-No longer seeing the world -the way you were -enculturated to see it.
-The United States -is bordered -by two friendly nations -Canada and Mexico.
-Just think, -there are no fortifications -on our land borders.
-However, -there are many customs -stations and border patrols -to enforce the immigration -and customs laws.
-The inspectors are courteous -at all times, -but our keen judges of human -nature -on the Canadian -side of the line, -the Canadian Customs -and Immigration.
-She needs to be outside.
-She needs to work for her.
-You know, her garden.
-she's not out there -alone.
-The creation story -goes back to the very -beginning of time for us.
-Our DNA is linked -to the very part -of the Earth here, -the shape of the landscape -might look different, -but we were -always from here.
-You know, this is ocean -going birch bark canoe right -here.
-It's made from -one birch tree.
-Everything's natural.
-There's no iron, -no metal at all.
-And it's like a feather -on water.
-It's all about the river.
-You know, we have, -our last canoe trip.
-We make this, like, -a, a yearly trip.
-There'll be about 70 of us -that leave from here.
-And we go down -the Saint Croix, -go to to the Passamaquoddy -Bay, to the other -Passamaquoddy community, -at the bay.
-And um, -we're followed by anywhere -from 2 to 10 eagles -along the way.
-There's no border there.
-It's it's home.
-You know, -the river is home.
-It's all part of -the big picture of things.
-Acadian, -refers to, the people -who resided in Acadia.
-But today there are Acadians -throughout the world.
-A lot of Acadians -were rounded up, -their houses were burned, -their livestock confiscated, -and they were put, on ships -bearing -different destinations.
-The name Acadia -was taken off the maps.
-Were used to pick -all that by hand.
-Way back then, -we used to have barrel by -hand and foot in the barrel.
-And the truck -went to haul it.
-Now they're all -computerized.
-All of them.
-It's a big difference.
-Once France had ceded -all of its colonies -in 1784, -some Acadians -petitioned the new Brunswick -government for land -in the Madawaska territory.
-They settled on either side -of the Saint John River.
-So the river was always seen -as the connecting point.
-Actually, we're looking at -one whole community, -and in the middle -is the river.
-The ducks and the river -is right down the way here.
-The reality is, -it was colonial nations -vying for our territory.
-This land in particular -was heavily disputed -for over 50 years -between Great Britain -and the United States.
-And we were caught in -between -when the American nation -declared independence, 1776.
-They couldn't figure out -where the borders should be.
-It was a very long dispute, -and it was the Webster -Ashburton Treaty, 1842.
-Well, Great Britain -ceded this territory, -which is now Aroostook -County, -to the United States.
-It was never there to cede.
-It was always ours.
-I mean, I'm -sure you've noticed when -driving this land, -you know, go up -to New Brunswick, drive -along this river.
-It's desirable.
-It's not hard to see -why someone -would want to take it.
-Maine -became a state in 1820, -and the border -didn't become real -until the Webster -Ashburton treaty, -which was some years later.
-So the folks of this area, -we weren't really -residents of Canada -or the United States.
-We were simply -what were called Madawaskins.
-All of a sudden, there's -this unceremonious -division of folks -who were one population, -weren't that anymore.
-You had American citizens -and you -had Canadian citizens.
-Families were divided.
-Line was was drawn.
-That was it.
-Up until the age of -five years old, -I couldn't say a word -in English.
-When I went to high school.
-They used to punish us -because we were speaking, -didn't want us to speak -French.
-in school, -like when I was speaking -French in the locker room -and the coach -says, -I told you not to talk -French in the locker room.
-He says, what did you tell -your friend?
-I said, I told them -my grandma -made better cookies and your -he said, okay, now -for ten laps around the gym, -you know, stuff like that.
-I felt -my French was inferior -because it was a French -that is unique -to northern Maine.
-And so in high school, -it was sort of well, -we're going to teach you -how to say this -the right way, -which, of course, by its -implication in a 15, 16 year -old means, well, -I'm saying it incorrectly -coupled with the 1919 -law that said instruction -can only take place -in English, -so you can have -French courses.
-But that's all.
-This is a message that -resonates loudly and deeply -with individuals -who are from here, -and who speak a language -that they are taught to -believe is inferior.
-French was how they lived, -was how their parents -expressed not just emotions, -but transmitted culture.
-Songs, feelings of -belonging, of being loved.
-It was everywhere.
-Even today, the area -of the Saint John Valley -has the highest number -of French speaking people -per capita -in the United States.
-In town here, we'll say, -traverse sur le Street, -but in the post office -that that's not French.
-The real French history -(speaking french) -Okay, that's French.
-See?
Over -here, we're half and half.
-They called it Franglais.
-It's not French, -not English.
-It's mixed.
-Originally, in 1950, -my grandfather -Paul started the business, -and he named it Levac Market.
-Levac market did not do -well at all.
-And, year later, -he was losing his shirt -and thinking -of closing the business.
-Back then, many Canadians, -were coming down from Canada -and going to Lewiston, -Maine, Biddeford, Maine, -Augusta and taking jobs -away from Americans.
-Americans -did not like Canadians.
-So he had the idea to change -the name of the business.
-He changed the name -of the business to Bishop's, -which is the English -translation of Levac.
-And it was an overnight -success.
-So he thought -so much about it and, -changed his name to Paul -Bishop.
-And historic change in U.S. -foreign policy -toward the maintenance -of peace and order -may well shape the future -destiny of all the peoples -of the world -that both sides begin anew.
-The quest for peace -before the -dark powers of destruction -unleashed by science -in Gaul.
-All humanity -in banned are accidental -self destruction.
-So let us begin a new.
-Loring was built -as a strategic base.
-Loring was the biggest -nuclear armament -in the world.
-I mean, if a nuclear weapon -went explode, -it would take -the whole Upper East Coast.
-Loring -had that much armament.
-We are the closest to Russia -when you consider -that Loring was a part -of the chrome dome.
-So the chrome donors, -the top of the earth -United States -didn't fly around the world.
-We flew over it.
-There was a bowling -alley on the base.
-There was a movie theater.
-There was, -NCO club, an officer's club, -a dental clinic.
-There was a rec center.
-I mean, it was like -a community all in itself.
-That's what -I miss more than anything.
-Is having, -All the people that I met -and we became close.
-That's the biggest thing -Regina Lady Breaky Heart.
-And you get.
-Mike, I know you want to -dance, I can tell.
-I see you, and I can't -wait for you to get -(achy breaky heart plays) -(achy breaky heart plays) -(achy breaky heart plays) -(achy breaky heart plays) -Over there, right -there, over there.
-Spread straight up.
-You know, -he's from California.
-I'm from Texas.
-Dude, uh -My board didn't break.
-We were -homeless in Albuquerque, -New Mexico, for the longest -time.
That's the desert.
-And it's like we come up -here.
-I'm like, -okay, it's still snowing.
-It's, May 10th.
-You know what I mean?
-Like, ugh -we're skaters, and -we like to hang out outside, -so it's a beautiful town.
-I love the people here.
-And it's -just like the French.
-It's a culture shock -when you come up here.
-I learned my French just -being a dishwasher out here.
-When I say wash up their -shoe, lose their shoe.
Lou.
-my mama and papa, -that's Grandma and grandpa.
-See, I -dont know that.
-All right.
-I'm going to come -back around.
-I'm always came -up, and I make good friends, -so, like, it's -it's easy to live up here.
-Its it's cool.
-Speaking now with -Jeannie Layton -who is the 1966 -Maine Potato Blossom -Queen and Jeannie, how's -it going to feel to lose -that beautiful crown?
-I'm going to feel -pretty sorry.
-I think, -but I think that -the new girl -will have -some beautiful experiences, -as I have, and I wouldn't -want to take that away -from anybody.
Right.
-It's probably been -an exciting year, hasn't it?
-It's been very exciting -and I've met lots of people, -and they really show a lot -of respect for the people -that live up -in this part of the country.
-Well, you've done a fine job -representing the Maine, -potatoes this year -Jeannie.
-I've had a -good time at it.
-Really good.
-While Jeannie Layton -here, the 1966 -Maine potatoe blossom Queen.
-I mean, -we're basically really -well known for potatoes.
-That's our big thing.
-kinda here.
-And because the potatoes -are so important to our community, -we have a whole festival to celebrate it.
-And we have a pageant.
-And whoever wins -this pageant -will get to represent -the county.
-on a state level -in the rolls, -in the kitchen.
-And I've been doing pageants -since, I think I was about -maybe 7 or 8.
-My mom had always grown up -doing them, -and so I had just like -looked at all -her fancy old dresses -and starting out, -it was just me -doing pageants.
-And then my sister -saw me on stage -and she thought that would -be really cool to try too.
-And so, -I mean, my mom just got like -a 2 in 1 kind of thing, but -yeah, yeah, I -would just just pinch them.
-I feel like there's often -a stigma around pageants -and maybe in the past -there's been a good reason -for that.
-but not here -in Aroostook County.
-I feel like pageants -really unite us.
-They're really a big thing -here at this time.
-It is my pleasure -to introduce.
-We have an opening number.
-We have a speech -to say on stage.
-We get to walk -a couple of times on stage, -and we get to perform -a talent.
-I was a little bit nervous.
-There's always a little bit -of the nerves -going into stuff -like this, but, -all the girls -were really nice.
-I was familiar -with a lot of them, -and so that just -kind of like took -a lot of the nerves away.
-And I was just -there to have fun.
-And now it is time to name -our new 2022 -Junior -Miss Maine Potato Queen.
-Ladies and gentlemen, -here's junior Miss -Presque Isle, Man Park.
-I was -just thinking in my head -that I was going to be happy -for anyone who won, because I would still have -all of my other sister queens from my town pageant.
-So as soon as I won, -I was thinking like, -I wonder what new people -I'm going to meet.
-Coming from a small town, -I think I've definitely -always -wanted to travel a lot, -and so I was really excited -about that.
-I really fallen in love -with living here again, -and maybe someday -I will go away, -but I feel like I will -always come back here.
-This is home -and and I'm proud -to call this place -my home.
-Here at last was what -we've been waiting to see.
-Our new home.
-This is part of the -Wherry housing -units recently completed -hundreds of units to house -personnel on the base.
-The housing, -like the rest of the base, -has all been built -since World War two.
-Hello?
-Somebody's been here.
-So this is a kitchen.
-See, the cupboards -are not in bad shape.
-See, we actually have -some in our museum.
-Not bad shape.
-And that probably would have -been where your stove was.
-Frigerator here, look, -there are hangers.
-Still hanging.
-So loring at -it's at its peak in the 80s.
-Had 10,000 people -that worked, served, -were contractors -or lived on the base -and the military people -and the civilians -in the area, -they got along so well.
-Everybody -kind of intertwined -their -lives around each other.
-I used -to babysit on the base -when I was growing up -as a teenager.
-Limestone, -Maine used to be a big town, -and it was a sad day -when they closed down.
-Yeah, when the -base left it changed -the entire dynamic -of the area, -even the farmers.
-In the wintertime, -they were out -at Loring plowing.
-So when they closed, -unfortunately -it took a lot of it with.
-It was a different way -of life -that we had to get used to, -and it hurt a lot.
-Years ago, many years ago, -before all our times, -buckwheat was grown -on almost every farm -because that's what -people used for their bread, -milled the flour, -and that would make their -flour to make this, mix.
-Im the fifth generation, -my son, who's 25, 26, -he's going to be the sixth, -and it looks like he's -going to -going to want to continue.
-So that's, -that's a good thing.
-Yeah.
-!It's a long time to be farming -the same, same ground.
-You know, -this is this is old.
-That mill is a newer mill.
-Our older mill, -like I told you -I had to replace, -is back there.
-That's the one that was, -repaired in 1898.
-This one here, I'm -assuming it's -1910.
-Much newer, newer model.
-Still no computers.
-Come on top that.
-Oh, no, I don't give it.
-That truck is usually full.
-The cup with buckwheat.
-You know that view I did -maybe once or twice a year.
-I come across it -and I come over the hill -and I said, well, -that that's pretty view.
-You would see it -every day because you're not -from around here.
-I don't appreciate it -because I live here.
-But it's different for you -because you work the land, -you're -part of the landscape.
-Yeah.
I mean, that's -too bad, you guys, -but I appreciate it.
-I growing up -with the same landscape -because I was just across -the border.
Claire.
Yeah.
-(Speaking French) -I mean, she mountains and.
-But I've always felt -like the valleys -were embracing, -protecting us.
-And I guess that's -still true in a lot of ways.
-I remember -crossing into Fort -Kent on a daily basis.
-Everybody knew each other.
-But since 9/11, it's, -taken on a very, -a very harsh reality.
-The big deal was when 9/11 -happened.
-The border then -really became a barrier.
-This had a real market -impact on what I called -border landers.
-Individuals -who live on a border.
-Yeah.
-And up here.
-And so there's two -different zones for Maine.
-There's a north zone and -and south zone.
-And we're in the North zone -right now.
-Obviously there's Canada, -but in northern Maine -you're not -allowed to use live bait.
-So up here we -I try to mimic as close -as I can to a live fish -to have the best -possible chance -at catching something.
-How often do you go -to Canada?
-Oh, I haven't been to -Canada yet.
-I don't have my pass -card, right now.
-You think -you'll stay for a while?
-Yeah, I'm gonna stay -for the rest of my life.
-I got a good job.
-I like it up here.
-yeah.
-I work at Walmart -here in Houlton.
-I work at, Houlton, -Hannaford's -as front end worker -and a pharmacy tech.
-And that.
-Its a Roman gladius.
-This is my second one.
-And I'm hoping to get a, -a longsword pretty soon.
-I like lightsabers, -so I recently -got a blue pro lightsaber.
-and I like dueling him.
-I did my best shot, -thank you.
-I'll be here for for scale.
-You do need scale.
-We are at Saturn.
-We are just -a little north of Saturn.
-Just a little east -of the moon.
-Titan here.
-Part of the main -solar system model, -which is the largest scale -model in this hemisphere.
-This is a no money project.
-We had no grant money.
-No other money.
-All materials, all time.
-Everything is donated.
-This is done by the -community of Northern Maine.
-I get phone calls saying, -you know, we're going to do -the same thing.
-Can, you know, -can you give us a copy -of your grant proposal?
-And I have to say, -there is no grant proposal.
-There was no sponsors.
-And you can just hear -on the other, -their heart just sinks -because -because I'm -explaining a process -that they -know that they could not do.
-Our remoteness -gives us, you know, -a perspective and -and a way of showing -some self-confidence.
-It's been tough.
-We had, we've had -many Covid shutdowns.
-You know, we couldn't -cross the border.
-Nobody -could cross the border.
-I have a friend that, -he and his girlfriend -actually lived in Canada, -and he couldn't see her for, -like, a year and a half.
-So this spot here -will give you views up -and down the river.
-So my father was tribal -chief for 12 years.
-When I was younger, -I swore that I would never -be involved in politics.
-it was the furthest -from my mind.
-And then I started doing -work in public health -for all the tribes in Maine, -and decided that I needed to -maybe step into a -a new, role that I wasn't -necessarily comfortable with -but felt like was needed.
-I work -a lot -with the tribes in Canada, -on the water, on the rivers, -and restoring the natural -fish habitat -that had been here -historically.
-So salmon is is again -at the heart -of like our culture, -and we don't see them in the -Meduxnekeag anymore.
-And some of those barriers -are on the Canadian side.
-So we can't just engage -with the tribes in Canada.
-It's with tribal -governments.
-They're with the Canadian -government, -which with the United States -government, -we have been really trying -hard to figure out a way -to break down those barriers -on the Canadian side -that are keeping the fish -from reaching us here -in our river.
-Most elders end up -being kind of pranksters, -kind of.
-And I'm the only I'm -the only Maliseet -who doesn't eat salmon, -you know, -that's what they would say, -because we'd have a big -salmon feed.
-And I'm like, -I don't like salmon.
-They're like, -you're the only -Indian that doesn't eat -salmon, for crying out loud.
-this is our football fields, -the high school field.
-A lot of memories.
-My kids all, you know, -played football here.
-And and I can remember, -like, -I remember Noah scoring -his first touchdown.
-I can just remember -every time, -every game we had, -every time -I painted the field.
-And it's.
-And, you know, the tribe -built this place, you know, -for the community at large.
-So there's more at play -than just -it's not really us and them.
-We know that the better -we make the southern, -the artistic area -for ourselves.
-It's also with the you know, -greater community in mind.
-Also, -we live in a place where, -you know, we've seen -just the greater area -here in Houlton, -a decline in our population.
-So my hope is that -we are able to get -more of our youth to -go to college and come home.
-You know, there's been a -lot of growth -here, for our tribe.
-And I just want that to -continue.
-And I -work with the state -legislature, -and we're working -with the federal government -just to break down barriers -so that we really can, -you know, practice -our sovereignty -and self-governance -and do it in a way -that's not restrictive.
-There are -you won't have to fire -station for grease up there.
-You did.
You okay.
-So I put the chairs up.
-I don't know -if they uh.
-He did that.
-Enjoy the next half up.
-Cheese -up.
Coming up.
-I'm gonna move it -up.
Move it up.
-Who's up next?
Wayne.
-I'm Doug next.
-You got the high school -band?
Oh.
-Thank you.
-For your.
-So I actually -have a few things -that are my favorites.
-So is the only yearbook -ever made in 63.
-And when you open it up, -you see, like, -all these pictures.
-But then you get to -the places where -there's people, -you know, -people come in and they.
-They'll stand here -and they'll cry.
-I'm gonna to cry, sorry, but they'll stand here -and they'll look at the face staring back at them and you'll just, -oh, my God, that's my dad, or that's my mother -or my grandfather.
-And I haven't seen -that face in forever.
-And there they are.
-So it's hard -because we lived here.
And.
-The first time -I heard the wax cylinders, -you know, I really, -wept because -I heard my ancestors.
-I could hear my grandmother -speaking.
-I could hear other elders -speaking in the -in the village.
-It was really profound.
-And it's really, well, -that particular border, -it's always hindered -our people from connecting -with one another.
-And, to keep us connected -on who we are as Ki Jin.
-Because that's who we are.
-It's built in our language.
-We are KI Jin -land dweller -because of our deep -connection -to the land.
-There are unspoken -places all around us.
-Places we never see or see, -but do not see.
-There are hidden -histories, haunted -landscapes, -forgotten graves.
-Secret worlds -surrounded by high walls.
-Sometimes -these places are unspoken.
-Because the unspeakable -happened -or continues -to happen there.
-Speaking of the unspoken -places means speaking -of the people who live -and die in those places, -how do we make the -invisible visible?
-How do we sing of the world -buried beneath us?
-How do we soak up the ghosts -through the soles -of our feet?
-Vermont public, -partnering -with local filmmakers -to bring you -stories made here.
-For more, -visit vermontpublic.org
Made Here is a local public television program presented by Vermont Public
Sponsored in part by the John M. Bissell Foundation, Inc. | Learn about the Made Here Fund