>> (GEOFFREY BAER) YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT, GOES THE OLD SAYING.

SO WHAT IS CHICAGO?

>> IT'S A...

I WOULDN'T SAY A MELTING POT; HOW ABOUT A CULTURAL STEW?

>> YEAH.

THE BIG STEW POT.

>> BIG STEW POT.

WITH LOTS OF DIFFERENT FLAVORS IN IT.

♪♪ >> OPA!

>> I'M GEOFFREY BAER, AND IN THIS SHOW I'LL BE EATING MY WAY THROUGH CHICAGO HISTORY.

FROM THE NATIVE AMERICANS WHO ATE A WILD ONION THEY CALLED CHICAGOUA.

>> AND ALSO THERE IS BUFFALO MEAT IN HERE... >> BUFFALO MEAT!

TO THE ITALIANS WHO CREATED FOODS THAT ARE UNIQUE TO CHICAGO.

>> NINETEEN DIFFERENT HERBS AND SPICES, SEVEN MORE THAN THE COLONEL!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FROM AFRICAN-AMERICANS WHO BROUGHT RICH CULINARY TRADITIONS UP FROM THE SOUTH.

>> OH THAT'S BARBEQUE, THAT'S REAL BARBEQUE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TO CHICAGO'S MORE RECENT WAVES OF IMMIGRANTS, WHO'VE GIVEN OUR CITY A LATIN FLAVOR.

>> IF I GET THE RIGHT KIND OF TORTILLA, IF I GET THE RIGHT KIND OF CHILI, I'M HAPPY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FROM CHICAGO'S FAST FOOD FAVORITES... TO ITS HISTORIC CANDY INDUSTRY.

FROM THE GREEKS TO THE POLES.

WE'LL REMEMBER THE STOCKYARDS AND SAMPLE FOODS THAT IMMIGRANTS BROUGHT FROM CHINA, GERMANY, IRELAND, SOUTH ASIA, AND THE MIDDLE EAST.

IN THIS SHOW, WE'LL GET TO KNOW THE PEOPLE OF OUR CITY THROUGH THE FOOD ON THEIR PLATES.

>> THERE'S NOTHING LIKE SITTING DOWN TO DINNER WITH SOMEBODY TO GET TO KNOW THEM.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THESE ARE THE FOODS OF CHICAGO.

>> CHEERS.

TO US!

♪♪ ♪♪ [BELL RINGING] ♪♪ >> ONE TACO...

THE MAXWELL STREET MARKET.

MY EYES TELL ME I'M JUST A FEW BLOCKS FROM THE SEARS TOWER...

BUT MY TASTE BUDS ARE TELLING ME I'M IN MEXICO.

>> YOU SEE THAT PLACE?

>> UH, HUH.

>> WELL THEY HAVE HUARACHES, WHICH MEANS SANDALS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) I'VE COME HERE WITH CULINARY HISTORIAN BRUCE KRAIG, TO GET A TASTE OF THIS HISTORIC MARKET.

SO THIS REALLY LOOKS LIKE THE KIND OF PLACE YOU'D FIND IN MEXICO YEAH?

>> OH YEAH, IT DOES.

YOU CAN SHOP AND THEN EAT, THEN SHOP AND EAT.

EAT SOME MORE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT MEXICANS ARE JUST THE LATEST WAVE OF IMMIGRANTS TO BRING THEIR FAVORITE FOODS TO THIS MARKET.

ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO, AND FIVE BLOCKS AWAY, THE OLD MAXWELL STREET MARKET HAD A EUROPEAN FLAVOR.

THIS IS WHERE JEWISH IMMIGRANTS CREATED THE ALL-BEEF CHICAGO HOT DOG, AND GERMANS, ITALIANS, AND GREEKS ALL ADDED THEIR OWN TOPPINGS.

ON MAXWELL STREET, A MACEDONIAN POPULARIZED A POLISH SAUSAGE SANDWICH, WHILE NEARBY, ITALIANS INVENTED A WHOLE NEW KIND OF BEEF SANDWICH.

LATER, AFRICAN AMERICANS BROUGHT FISH SANDWICHES, AND BLUES MUSIC.

IT'S BEEN CALLED THE ELLIS ISLAND OF THE MIDWEST, AND WITH GOOD REASON.

ON MAXWELL STREET THERE'S BEEN A BLENDING OF FLAVORS AND CULTURES THAT COULD BE IN FOUND FEW OTHER PLACES ON OUR PLANET.

>> SO IT'S A COMPRESSED VERSION OF THE AMERICAN STORY.

I WOULDN'T SAY A MELTING POT HOW ABOUT A CULTURAL STEW?

>> YEAH.

THE BIG STEW POT.

>> BIG STEW POT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THAT STEW POT IS MUCH BIGGER THAN MAXWELL STREET.

CHICAGO, AS A WHOLE, IS A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN SAMPLE FOODS FROM EVERY CORNER OF THE EARTH... >> OPA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ...WITHOUT EVER GETTING ON A PLANE.

>> IT'S QUINTESSENTIALLY AMERICAN.

AMERICA IS A COUNTRY OF IMMIGRANTS.

AND THEY'VE ALL BROUGHT THEIR CULTURES WITH THEM.

>> THAT IS GOOD!

MMM.

♪♪ >> THERE IT IS.

THIS IS WHAT THE LOCAL NATIVE AMERICANS CALLED CHICAGOUA.

THAT'S RIGHT, MANY BELIEVE THAT THIS IS WHAT CHICAGO IS NAMED FOR.

IT'S ONE OF SEVERAL KINDS OF FRAGRANT ONIONS AND GARLIC THAT WOULD HAVE PERFUMED THE AIR HERE, ADDING A LITTLE SPICE TO THE NATIVE AMERICANS' LIVES.

>> AND AMONG THE OJIBWA PEOPLE, THAT WAS AS SPICY AS IT GOT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) OKAY.

DORENE WIESE IS OJIBWA INDIAN.

HER ANCESTORS WOULD HAVE BEEN EATING THOSE WILD ONIONS TWO CENTURIES AGO.

DOREEN AND HER COLLEAGUE ZEKE MET ME HERE AT NORTH PARK VILLAGE NATURE CENTER TO COOK THE KIND OF MEAL THEIR ANCESTORS MIGHT HAVE MADE.

>> WE HAVE A GREAT CORN SOUP.

AND ALSO THERE IS BUFFALO MEAT IN HERE.

>> BUFFALO MEAT?

>> BUFFALO MEAT, YEAH.

>> AND WHAT'S THIS DISH HERE?

>> THIS DISH IS ONE OF MY FAVORITES, IT'S WILD RICE.

ALSO IN THIS WE HAVE SOME BEANS.

MANY, MANY TRIBES PLANTED THREE VEGETABLES: CORN, BEANS AND SQUASH.

>> AND YOU CALL THIS?

>> THE THREE SISTERS.

>> UH, HUH.

[PRAYING] >> EVERYTHING WE DID INVOLVED PRAYER.

WE WOULD NOT PICK A PLANT.

WE WOULD NOT KILL AN ANIMAL UNTIL WE GAVE THANKSGIVING.

THANKSGIVING FOR US WAS EVERYDAY.

>> LETS EAT.

>> OKAY, LETS EAT.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) ACCORDING TO AN OLD LEBANESE TRADITION, IF A PIECE OF PITA BREAD FALLS TO THE FLOOR, YOU PICK IT UP... AND KISS IT.

>> THAT'S A WAY OF CAPTURING JUST HOW VERY PRECIOUS THAT RELATIONSHIP IS BETWEEN THE PERSON AND THE FOOD AND THE RESPECT FOR THE FOOD.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE PEOPLE OF THE MIDDLE EAST HAVE RICH CULINARY TRADITIONS THAT MANY OF US IN THE MIDWEST HAVE EMBRACED.

WITH MIDDLE EASTERN COMMUNITIES THRIVING IN PLACES LIKE BRIDGEVIEW AND ALBANY PARK, THE VOCABULARY OF YOUR AVERAGE CHICAGOAN NOW INCLUDES WORDS LIKE FALAFEL, TABOULI, AND OF COURSE, PITA.

AL KHYAM BAKERY IN ALBANY PARK SUPPLIES MANY CHICAGO RESTAURANTS WITH THEIR DAILY BREAD.

THE PITA IS MADE HERE IN A CONTRAPTION DESIGNED BY OWNER GEORGE MOUNSEF.

HE HAD IT BUILT IN LEBANON AND SHIPPED TO CHICAGO.

THE FLATTENED DOUGH WINDS ITS WAY ON A CONVEYOR BELT FOR A HALF HOUR SO IT RELAXES, BEFORE PASSING QUICKLY THROUGH A VERY HOT OVEN, WHICH MAKES EACH PIECE BALLOON TO FORM A POCKET.

>> (MAUREEN ABOOTL) EVERY BITE AT THE LEBANESE TABLE IS BROUGHT FROM PLATE TO MOUTH WITH A PIECE OF BREAD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) NOW EVEN THE SALAD WOULD YOU WRAP THAT IN THE BREAD?

>> (MAUREEN ABOOTL) YES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) REALLY?

AL KHYAM MAKES THIS PAPER-THIN BREAD CALLED LAVASH.

THE FRAGILE DOUGH IS STRETCHED ON A PILLOW TO PREVENT IT FROM TEARING.

THEN IT'S COOKED ON A DOMED GRIDDLE, CALLED A SAGE.

IN NEIGHBORHOODS LIKE THIS ONE WITH SIGNIFICANT MUSLIM POPULATIONS, YOU'LL OFTEN SEE SIGNS FOR HALAL BUTCHERS.

HALAL MEANS IT'S PERMITTED UNDER ISLAMIC LAW.

HALAL MEATS MUST BE ZABIHA, MEANING THAT THE ANIMAL WAS SLAUGHTERED ACCORDING TO ISLAMIC LAW.

OF COURSE, THERE WAS A TIME WHEN IT WASN'T SO EASY FOR MIDDLE EASTERN IMMIGRANTS-- WHETHER MUSLIM OR CHRISTIAN-- TO FIND THE INGREDIENTS THEY NEEDED IN CHICAGO.

SOME TOOK A DO-IT-YOURSELF APPROACH.

>> I REMEMBER MY MOTHER LOVED TO DRIVE, BUT NOTHING WOULD GET HER TO STOP EXCEPT ONE THING.

WHEN SHE'D PASS A GRAPEVINE SHE'D HIT THAT BRAKE SO HARD ALL THE KIDS WOULD GO FLYIN' OVER THE BACK SEAT.

SHE'D WALK US OUT, OPEN THE TRUNK, AND PULL OUT THE PLASTIC BAGS AND WE'D STRIP EVERY LEAF OFF THE GRAPEVINE IN LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHEN RAY HANANIA'S FAMILY IMMIGRATED TO CHICAGO IN 1926, THERE WAS ALREADY A THRIVING ARAB COMMUNITY HERE.

SO MANY HAD LANDED AT THE CORNER OF MICHIGAN AVENUE AND 18TH STREET, IT'S BEEN CALLED THE "PLYMOUTH ROCK" FOR CHICAGO'S ARABS.

>> SOME OF THE BOOKS THAT WERE PUBLISHED AT THE TIME CAUTIONED PEOPLE NOT TO GO THERE.

YOU KNOW THAT THIS IS ARABIAN ROW.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MANY OF THEM HAD A KNACK FOR ENTREPRENEURSHIP.

BY THE EARLY 1970S PALESTINIANS OWNED 20% OF THE GROCERY AND LIQUOR STORES CITYWIDE.

OTHERS OPENED RESTAURANTS LIKE STEVE'S SHISH KABOB IN PALOS HILLS, WHICH STARTED OUT ON CHICAGO'S SOUTHWEST SIDE IN THE 1970S.

IT WAS FOODS LIKE KABOBS AND SHAWARMA THAT HELPED THESE RESTAURANTS CATCH ON IN MEAT-LOVING CHICAGO.

>> AND THAT THEN DREW PEOPLE INTO OTHER ARABIAN RESTAURANTS, AND TASTE THE WIDER MENU, THE HUMMUS, THE COUSCOUS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY THERE'S A VAST SELECTION OF MIDDLE EASTERN FOODS IN CHICAGO.

IT'S A REFLECTION OF THE SIZE AND DIVERSITY OF THE ARAB-AMERICAN COMMUNITY HERE, WHICH NOW NUMBERS ABOUT 150,000.

>> THIS IS PALESTINIAN TABOULI BECAUSE I CAN TELL BECAUSE IT HAS CUCUMBERS.

IF YOU GO TO A LEBANESE RESTAURANT, THEY DON'T USE CUCUMBERS-- THEY USE A LOT OF PARSLEY.

BUT THAT'S HOW YOU TELL WHAT COUNTRY THE COOK IS FROM.

WHEN THEY SMILE IF THEIR TEETH ARE JUST COMPLETELY COVERED WITH PARSLEY, YOU KNOW THEY'RE LEBANESE.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THESE FOODS OFFER A WINDOW INTO THE CULTURES OF THE MIDDLE EAST, AT A TIME WHEN SO MANY AMERICANS ARE TRYING TO BETTER UNDERSTAND THAT PART OF THE WORLD.

>> IF YOU GET TO KNOW THE FOOD, YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH THE FOOD, YOU CAN EASILY FALL IN LOVE WITH THE PEOPLE.

YOU TAKE 'EM OFF THE FRONT PAGE OF A CHICAGO NEWSPAPER OR OFF OF CNN OR THE TV NEWS, YOU PUT 'EM ON A TABLE AROUND FOOD AND SUDDENLY THEY LOOK LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE.

BREAKING BREAD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BREAKING BREAD, OKAY.

ALRIGHT, THANK YOU.

>> THERE YOU GO.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) STEVE CHIAPETTI KNOWS MEAT.

HIS FAMILY OWNS CHIAPETTI LAMB AND VEAL...

IT'S THE LAST SLAUGHTERHOUSE LEFT AT THE SITE OF CHICAGO'S UNION STOCKYARDS.

BUT STEVE DECIDED HE'D RATHER COOK MEAT FOR A LIVING AND LEAVE THE SLAUGHTERING TO SOMEONE ELSE.

>> IT WAS SO MUCH MORE ROMANTIC AND SO MUCH MORE SEXY TO SEE THAT PART OF THE BUSINESS THEN TO SEE WHAT I WAS DOING IN THE SLAUGHTERHOUSES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN ITS HEYDAY, 13 MILLION ANIMALS WERE SLAUGHTERED AT CHICAGO'S UNION STOCKYARDS EVERY YEAR.

THAT WAS 80% OF AMERICA'S MEAT.

AND THAT HAD A BIG AFFECT ON HOW WE ATE HERE IN CHICAGO.

HAVING THIS HUGE SUPPLY OF MEAT IN OUR BACKYARD, STEAKS WERE CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL.

AND THE STEAKHOUSE BECAME A CHICAGO INSTITUTION.

>> IT'S LIKE GOING TO AN EAST COAST AND GOING FISHING.

OBVIOUSLY, WHEN I GO TO GET LOBSTER, I'M EXPECTING IT'S GOING TO BE THE FRESHEST LOBSTER AVAILABLE.

>> OH BOY.

>> AND THE SAME THING WITH MEAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHICAGO STEAKHOUSES DEVELOPED A DISTINCTIVE FLAVOR, WHICH YOU CAN STILL SAMPLE AT PLACES LIKE GIBSON'S.

>> IT'S SIMPLICITY, IT'S NOT OVERDONE, IT'S NOT A, IT'S NOT A FRU-FRU CONCEPT.

WE HAVE THINGS SPINNING ON WALLS AND ITS ALL ABOUT THAT.

IT'S BASICALLY YOU KNOW WHAT?

I'M COMING HERE FOR THE FOOD.

I KNOW I'M COMING FOR THE FOOD.

IT'S CLEAN WHITE TABLECLOTH.

WAITERS, THE MALE WAITERS COMING OUT WEARING THE BIG BURLY AND THE BOWTIE AND THE CLEAN WHITE SHIRT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THERE'S A SECRET TO MAKING A GREAT CHICAGO STEAK-- IT'S IN THE WAY IT'S AGED.

AGING THE MEAT MAKES IT TENDER AND FLAVORFUL, THOUGH THE PROCESS ITSELF ISN'T SO MOUTH-WATERING.

>> AGING REALLY IS CONTROLLED ROTTING.

YOU GET AN INTENSE FLAVOR BY THE ENZYMES NATURALLY BREAKING DOWN THE PIECE OF MEAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY OF DOING IT IS CALLED DRY AGING.

>> WE PUT THIS INTO OUR REFRIGERATED CABINET.

WE SET UP SALT IN THE BOTTOM OF THE CABINET SO THAT IT HELPS THE MOISTURE IN CONTROL.

AND WE'LL LET KEEP THIS GOING ANYWHERE FROM UP TO SEVEN TO 28 DAYS.

>> I DON'T KNOW, THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT THE WAY THAT YOU JUST DID THAT, THAT REALLY CLUES ME IN THAT YOU'RE A GUY WHO'S FROM FOUR GENERATIONS OF BUTCHERS.

>> WELL I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT, BUT YOU KNOW I LIKE TO KEEP IT SIMPLE AND CLEAN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE UNION STOCKYARDS CLOSED IN 1971.

BUT ONE PIG PRODUCT IS STILL PROCESSED ON THAT HISTORIC SITE IN NUMBERS THAT RIVAL THE OLD DAYS.

EVANS FOODS MAKES 37% OF THE WORLD'S PORK RINDS.

EVERY YEAR THE SKINS FROM 60 MILLION HOGS ENTER THIS PLANT.

THEY'RE MADE INTO THESE PELLETS...

WHICH ARE THEN POPPED LIKE POPCORN.

EVANS FOODS EXPORTS MUCH OF THEIR PRODUCT TO MEXICO, WHERE PORK SKINS ARE POPULAR.

[CROWD CHEERING] [PREACHING] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE FAITHFUL NEVER GO HOME HUNGRY FROM THE TRUE WORLD OUTREACH CHURCH IN AUSTIN.

>> THE BIBLE SAYS THAT JESUS' HANDS ARE STRETCHED OUT... ALL THE DAY LONG... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) EVERY SUNDAY PASTOR BANKS FEEDS THEIR SOULS.

[CROWD CHEERS] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHILE BACK IN THE CHURCH'S KITCHEN... >> A LIL' CAJUN SEASONING... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) ...MRS. BANKS GETS READY TO FEED THEIR STOMACHS... WITH SOUL FOOD.

[GOSPEL MUSIC] >> WE PUT GREEN ONIONS, GREEN PEPPER, YELLOW PEPPER... [GOSPEL MUSIC] ...I'M USING WHITE PEPPER AND A LITTLE CHICKEN SEASONING.

[GOSPEL MUSIC] SWEET PICKLE RELISH, AND I'M GONNA FRY IT ON TOP OF THE STOVE.

[GOSPEL MUSIC] >> THIS IS LOOKING VERY TASTY; I MIGHT HAVE TO PUT IT IN MY OWN RECIPE BOOK.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY, MRS. BANKS IS GETTING A HAND FROM WILBERT JONES.

>> YOU'RE EYEING IT ALL, HUH?

[LAUGHING] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE'S A FOOD SCIENTIST WHO WRITES COOKBOOKS.

>> A DAB OF THAT... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT FOR MRS. BANKS COOKING IS MORE ART THAN SCIENCE.

[LAUGHING] >> I LIKE TO EXPERIMENT.

>> YOU DO?

>> I LOVE TO COOK, BUT I DON'T LIKE TO EAT.

>> YOU LOVE TO...

I'M THE OPPOSITE.

I LIKE TO EAT, BUT I DON'T LIKE TO COOK.

[LAUGHING] TODAY, SHE'S MAKING SMOTHERED CABBAGE... >> VERY, VERY INDIGENOUS TO MISSISSIPPI, ALABAMA, GEORGIA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) A STRING BEAN DISH... >> AND I'M SEEING DEEP SOUTH ALL OVER THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SMOTHERED CHICKEN... >> ALABAMA.

IT COULD BE A POSSIBILITY OR EITHER POCKETS OF MISSISSIPPI.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND FOR DESSERT... PEACH COBBLER.

>> (WILBERT JONES) THIS IS A STANDARD SOUTHERN COBBLER.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT'S NO ACCIDENT THAT ALL OF THESE DISHES COME FROM THE DEEP SOUTH.

>> OUR ROOTS ARE BOTH FROM MISSISSIPPI, MRS. BANKS AND MINE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HISTORICALLY, MANY OF CHICAGO'S AFRICAN AMERICANS CAME UP HERE ON THE ILLINOIS CENTRAL RAILROAD WHICH PASSED THROUGH STATES LIKE MISSISSIPPI, LOUISIANA, AND ALABAMA.

MORE THAN HALF A MILLION MIGRATED NORTH TO CHICAGO BETWEEN 1916 AND 1970, IN WHAT'S BEEN CALLED THE GREAT MIGRATION.

AND THEY BROUGHT WITH THEM CENTURIES-OLD CULINARY TRADITIONS THAT WERE BORN OUT OF SLAVERY.

>> SOUL FOOD IS THE KIND OF FOOD THAT MAKES DUE WITH WHAT'S LEFT OVER.

IF YOU'RE A SLAVE, YOUR WEEKLY RATIONS MIGHT BE FOUR POUNDS OF SALTED MEAT AND MAYBE SOME CORN MEAL AND MAYBE SOME BLACK STRAP MOLASSES.

>> A LOT OF PORK PIECES, A LOT OF WILD GRAINS AND THINGS OF THAT NATURE.

LOOKING AT LEFT OVER INGREDIENTS THAT WERE AVAILABLE AND TAKING THOSE INGREDIENTS AND MAKING SOMETHING FANTASTIC FROM IT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SOMETIMES BY FRYING THE FOOD.

THESE ARE HOECAKES, WHICH ARE ESSENTIALLY FRIED CORNBREAD BATTER.

IT'S BELIEVED THAT FIELD HANDS USED TO COOK THESE ON SHOVELS AND HOES.

>> (MRS. BANKS) MAKING SMOTHERED CHICKEN SOUTHERN STYLE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ANOTHER POPULAR TECHNIQUE IS SMOTHERING.

>> I'M GOING TO PUT A GRAVY ON IT... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT MAKES A TOUGHER CUT OF MEAT TENDER AND TASTY.

>> BASICALLY TAKING SOMETHING LIKE CHICKEN, ADDING A LITTLE WATER TO IT AND, COVERING IT UP AND ACTUALLY LET THE CHICKEN JUICES SMOTHER IT OUT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN THE SOUTH THIS CUISINE WAS OFTEN KNOWN AS "COUNTRY COOKING".

BUT DURING THE 1960S, WHEN THE TERM SOUL WAS BEING USED TO DESCRIBE AFRICAN-AMERICAN MUSIC AND CULTURE, IT BECAME SOUL FOOD.

>> IT HAS TO DO WITH THE ESSENCE OF WHAT IT IS THAT MAKES AFRICAN-AMERICANS DISTINCT.

AND IT'S VERY IMPORTANT TO A LOT OF US THAT WE TEACH OUR CHILDREN THOSE DISTINCTIONS.

YOU ARE DOING SUCH A GOOD JOB.

>> THAT'S OKRA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DONNA PIERCE IS OVER AT HER SISTER'S HOUSE, SHARING A FAMILY RECIPE WITH HER NIECE, ALEXIS.

>> WELL, I'M MAKING GUMBO AND THIS IS OUR FAMILY DISH.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEIR FAMILY COMES FROM MOBILE, ALABAMA ON THE GULF COAST.

>> MOBILE GUMBO HAS TOMATOES AND NEW ORLEANS DOES NOT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHICAGO HAS ALWAYS HAD A STRONG CULTURAL CONNECTION TO THAT PART OF THE COUNTRY, GOING ALL OF THE WAY BACK TO THE DAYS WHEN LOUIS ARMSTRONG BROUGHT JAZZ UP FROM NEW ORLEANS.

OTHERS BROUGHT CREOLE COOKING.

>> CREOLE FOOD IS A BLEND OF FRENCH AND SPANISH AND AFRICAN-- THE AFRICAN CULTURE, I FIND, TO BE THE MOST PRONOUNCED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THERE ARE MANY ASPECTS OF AFRICAN-AMERICAN CUISINES THAT CAN BE TRACED BACK TO AFRICA.

THE WORD GUMBO ACTUALLY COMES FROM AN AFRICAN BANTU WORD FOR OKRA.

>> SLAVES WERE VERY VALUABLE AND THEY WANTED TO KEEP THEM ALIVE AND KEEP THEM FED, SO THEY BROUGHT OVER THEIR NATIVE CROPS TO FEED THEM.

>> I WANT TO DO IT AGAIN.

>> OKAY.

>> WHEN THE AFRICANS WERE BROUGHT OVER, SO MUCH WAS LOST, TO RELIGION AND LANGUAGE AND SO MUCH ELSE, AND ONE OF THE THINGS THAT WE DO HAVE IS FOOD.

AND THAT'S WHY THIS IS SO IMPORTANT TO ME.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHICAGO DIDN'T TURN OUT TO BE THE PROMISED LAND FOR EVERYONE WHO MADE THE JOURNEY NORTH.

RESTRICTIVE HOUSING COVENANTS CONFINED AFRICAN-AMERICANS TO A SECTION OF THE SOUTH SIDE KNOWN AS THE BLACK BELT.

>> AFRICAN-AMERICANS WERE LARGELY EXCLUDED FROM DOWNTOWN.

YOU COULD FIND AFRICAN-AMERICANS EVEN TODAY WHO HAVE NEVER ACTUALLY BEEN DOWNTOWN.

IT'S AMAZING.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) INSTEAD THEY STARTED THEIR OWN BUSINESS DISTRICTS, WITH THEIR OWN RESTAURANTS, ON A SECTION OF SOUTH STATE STREET THAT WAS KNOWN AS THE STROLL, AND LATER ON 47TH STREET.

>> THIS IS THE ENTREPRENEURIAL CAPITAL OF BLACK AMERICA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TO THIS DAY, COOK COUNTY HAS MORE BLACK-OWNED BUSINESSES THAN ANY OTHER COUNTY IN AMERICA.

HAROLD'S CHICKEN SHACK HAD 65 LOCATIONS AS OF 2007... AND COUNTING.

HAROLD PIERCE OPENED THE ORIGINAL AT 47TH AND GREENWOOD IN 1950-- THAT'S FIVE YEARS BEFORE MCDONALD'S STARTED FRANCHISING, TWO YEARS BEFORE KFC.

NOW THERE ARE STORES AS FAR AWAY AS ATLANTA.

♪♪ THERE ARE SEVERAL CLASSIC CHICAGO SOUL FOOD RESTAURANTS THAT HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR DECADES.

THE OLDEST IS ARMY & LOU'S.

IT OPENED IN 1945 AT 39TH AND INDIANA.

♪♪ ARMY AND LOU'S HAS BEEN HERE ON 75TH STREET SINCE THE 1960S.

ANOTHER TRADITION THAT AFRICAN-AMERICANS BROUGHT NORTH WITH THEM TO CHICAGO... WAS BARBECUE.

>> BARBEQUE IN THE SOUTH IS REALLY, REALLY GOOD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ROBERT ADAMS AT HONEY ONE BARBECUE ON THE NORTH SIDE INSISTS ON DOING IT THE SAME WAY HE DID DOWN IN ARKANSAS... OVER WOOD.

WHY DO YOU LIKE THE WOOD?

>> OH, THAT'S BARBEQUE.

THAT'S ARKANSAS.

THAT'S REAL BARBEQUE.

YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYING?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN THE SOUTH THEY OFTEN BARBECUED OUTSIDE ON OLD OIL DRUMS.

BUT THE CLASSIC CHICAGO BARBECUE JOINTS LIKE HONEY ONE USE THESE SO-CALLED AQUARIUM SMOKERS.

>> IT HOLDS THE HEAT.

AND IT ACTUALLY MAKES IT TENDER TOO.

THE KEY TO BARBEQUE IS COOKING IT SLOW.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND WHY, WHAT'S THAT DO?

>> IT MAKES IT TENDER.

IF YOU COOK IT FAST, IT'S HARD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH TAKING THIS OUTDOOR COOKING METHOD AND BRINGING IT INTO THE KITCHEN, IS THAT IT GETS HOT IN HERE!

THIS IS UNBELIEVABLE.

WHEN YOU OPEN UP THAT THING, THE, THE BLAST OF HEAT THAT COMES OUT HERE.

IT'S HOT IN HERE.

>> YEAH, BUT IT REMINDS ME OF HOME.

>> YEAH.

>> THE SOUTH, WHICH IS VERY HOT.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHICAGO BARBECUE PLACES TYPICALLY USE A MORE TART, VINEGARY SAUCE, BUT HERE IT'S SWEETER.

HIS SECRET?

>> HONEY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HONEY.

>> THERE'S HONEY IN IT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND IT WOULDN'T BE CHICAGO BARBECUE WITHOUT THE UBIQUITOUS PIECE OF WHITE BREAD ON TOP.

NOW, WHAT'S WITH THE PIECE OF WHITE BREAD ON THE TOP?

>> OH, MY GOODNESS.

THAT'S THE SECRET OF BARBEQUE.

BACK IN THE OLD DAYS THAT'S ALL WE HAD WAS WHITE BREAD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SO, SLOW COOKING, HOW MANY HOURS A DAY ARE YOU STANDING HERE COOKING?

>> I COMES IN ABOUT 5:30, 6 O'CLOCK A.M. AND I COOKS TILL THE AFTERNOON.

BUT I LOVE IT, THOUGH.

WHEN YOU LOVE DOING SOMETHING, YOU NEVER GET TIRED.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) COMING UP: CHICAGO'S FAMOUS FOOD FACTORIES.

AND IRISH, JEWISH, CHINESE AND GREEK FOOD.

>> OPA!

>> TAKE A CLOSE LOOK AROUND YOUR KITCHEN SOMETIME.

YOU MIGHT BE SURPRISED TO DISCOVER HOW MANY OF THE FOODS YOU EAT EVERY DAY WERE MADE IN AND AROUND CHICAGO.

CHICAGO WAS BUILT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MIDWEST, A REGION THAT CHURNED OUT A STEADY SUPPLY OF CORN, GRAINS, BEEF, AND DAIRY.

SO IT HAD ALL THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS TO BECOME A FOOD MANUFACTURING HUB, AND IT HAD THE MEANS TO SHIP THIS FOOD ALL OVER THE COUNTRY.

THE ILLINOIS AND MICHIGAN CANAL, AND LATER THE RAILROADS MADE CHICAGO A TRANSPORTATION CENTER.

THREE OAT-MILLING COMPANIES MERGED IN CHICAGO TO START THE QUAKER OATS COMPANY IN 1901.

THOUGH NONE OF THE FOUNDERS WERE ACTUAL QUAKERS.

THEY CHOSE THE NAME BECAUSE QUAKERS WERE KNOWN AS HONEST BUSINESSMEN.

THEIR LOGO DOESN'T DEPICT AN ACTUAL QUAKER EITHER.

THE MODEL WAS CHICAGO ACTOR AND RADIO HOST JOHN C. BURNS.

TWO CHICAGO LAWYERS CREATED THE NATIONAL BISCUIT COMPANY IN 1898.

THE NAME WAS LATER SHORTENED TO NABISCO.

BISCUIT WAS ANOTHER WORD FOR CRACKER BACK THEN.

THEY WERE USUALLY SOLD IN BARRELS AT GROCERY STORES.

NABISCO'S OLD PLANT ON CHICAGO'S SOUTHWEST SIDE STILL MAKES RITZ CRACKERS, FIG NEWTONS, AND OREOS.

A RIVAL CRACKER MAKER, THE UNITED BISCUIT COMPANY, SET UP SHOP IN CHICAGO IN 1927.

THEY LATER MOVED TO ELMHURST AND RENAMED THE COMPANY KEEBLER, AFTER GODFREY KEEBLER, WHO FOUNDED ONE OF THEIR SUBSIDIARIES.

>> WE DO IT MAGICALLY!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND FOR THE RECORD, HE WAS NOT AN ELF.

THE ELVES WERE THE CREATION OF CHICAGO AD AGENCY LEO BURNETT.

MORTON SALT WAS FOUNDED HERE WAY BACK IN 1848.

THE COMPANY'S BIGGEST INNOVATION WAS A KIND OF SALT THAT DOESN'T CLUMP WHEN IT GETS DAMP.

HENCE THE SLOGAN "WHEN IT RAINS IT POURS", ILLUSTRATED BY THE FAMOUS UMBRELLA GIRL.

A CANADIAN IMMIGRANT NAMED J.L.

KRAFT GOT HIS START WHOLESALING CHEESE FROM A HORSE-DRAWN WAGON IN CHICAGO.

KRAFT'S BIG BREAKTHROUGH CAME IN 1915, WHEN HE FOUND A WAY TO GIVE CHEESE A LONGER SHELF LIFE, BY HEATING IT UP AND STIRRING IT.

TODAY, KRAFT IS BASED IN NORTHFIELD, ILLINOIS.

A MILKSHAKE MACHINE SALESMAN FROM OAK PARK NAMED RAY KROC SPENT A LOT OF TIME AT CHICAGO HOT DOG STANDS.

HE CAREFULLY OBSERVED THEIR FAST FOOD BUSINESS MODEL, AND THOUGHT HE MIGHT BE ABLE TO APPLY IT TO HAMBURGERS.

ON A SALES CALL TO SAN BERNARDINO, CALIFORNIA, KROC SAW POTENTIAL IN A BUSY HAMBURGER STAND RUN BY BROTHERS MAC AND DICK MCDONALD.

HE CONVINCED THEM TO TAKE HIM ON AS A FRANCHISE AGENT.

RAY KROC BUILT THE FIRST MCDONALD'S FRANCHISE HERE IN DES PLAINES, ILLINOIS IN 1955.

BY 1961, HE HAD OPENED MORE THAN 200 RESTAURANTS AND BOUGHT OUT THE BROTHERS FOR 2.7 MILLION DOLLARS.

TODAY, THE COMPANY IS BASED IN WEST SUBURBAN OAK BROOK.

MCDONALDS COMES OUT OF A LONG AND RICH CHICAGO FAST FOOD TRADITION.

>> THE CAFETERIA IS A CHICAGO INVENTION.

WELL NOT-- >> THE CAFETERIA.

REALLY?

>> YEAH REALLY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT TURNS OUT THE CAFETERIA WAS THE BRAINCHILD OF JOHN KRUGER, A SWEDISH IMMIGRANT, WHO BASED HIS SELF-SERVICE RESTAURANT CONCEPT ON THE SMORGASBORD.

ON A TRIP TO CUBA HE DISCOVERED THE SPANISH WORD FOR COFFEE SHOP, CAFETERIA.

>> AND HE SAID, "BOY THAT'S A REALLY GOOD NAME".

SO HE CAME BACK AND HE SAID "I'M GONNA CALL MY PLACES CAFETERIAS."

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THESE PLACES WERE ESPECIALLY POPULAR WITH WOMEN-- WHO WEREN'T ALWAYS WELCOME AT LUNCHROOMS OR SALOONS.

IT SEEMS AL CAPONE WAS SOMETHING OF A SNACK FOOD JUNKIE.

IN FACT, HE HAD HIS OWN SUPPLIER.

LEONARD JAPP GOT HIS START SELLING PRETZELS AND NUTS TO CAPONE'S SPEAKEASIES IN 1927.

ABOUT A YEAR LATER, CAPONE WAS VACATIONING IN SARATOGA SPRINGS, NEW YORK, WHEN HE DISCOVERED A NEW SNACK THAT HAD BEEN INVENTED THERE: THE POTATO CHIP.

CAPONE RETURNED TO CHICAGO WITH MARCHING ORDERS FOR LEONARD JAPP.

>> HE BASICALLY TOLD MY GRANDFATHER THAT, YOU KNOW, HE WOULD LIKE TO SEE THESE SNACKS CALLED POTATO CHIPS IN HIS SPEAKEASIES AND HE REALLY LOVED THEM.

AND AT THAT POINT IS WHEN MY GRANDFATHER BASICALLY GOT IN THE POTATO CHIP BUSINESS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND SO IN THE MID-30S, CHICAGOANS WERE INTRODUCED TO MRS. JAPP'S, A REVOLUTIONARY NEW KIND OF POTATO CHIP.

WHILE OTHERS MADE THICK CHIPS THAT WERE FRIED IN LARD, THESE WERE THIN AND LIGHT, AND FRIED IN CORN OIL.

BUT LEONARD JAPP'S BRAND NAME BECAME A PEJORATIVE TERM IN DECEMBER OF 1941 WHEN THE JAPANESE BOMBED PEARL HARBOR.

SALES OF MRS. JAPP'S PLUMMETED.

>> YOU KNOW, I THINK PEOPLE THOUGHT THERE WAS A LITTLE JAPANESE LADY COOKING POTATO CHIPS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AS YOU MAY HAVE GUESSED BY NOW, HE CHANGED THE BRAND NAME TO JAY'S.

TODAY, JAY'S SOUTH SIDE POTATO CHIP FACTORY IS ONE OF THE LARGEST IN AMERICA.

♪♪ >> CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE IS WHAT PEOPLE THINK OF AS THE QUINTESSENTIAL IRISH DISH, EXCEPT THE FUNNY THING IS, IT'S NOT IRISH.

>> (MAUREEN O'LOONEY) CORNED BEEF IS AN AMERICAN DISH, AND IT'S GOOD.

>> BUT IT'S NOT IRISH.

>> BUT IT'S NOT IRISH.

IT'S NOT AS GOOD AS THIS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS IS BOILING BACON-- WHAT IMMIGRANTS LIKE MAUREEN O'LOONEY ATE BACK IN IRELAND.

>> BACON, A PIECE OF A PIG.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MAUREEN AND HER FRIENDS MET ME AT THE IRISH-AMERICAN HERITAGE CENTER, TO COOK FOR ME THE KIND OF MEAL THEY ATE GROWING UP.

>> WHERE WOULD YOU GET YOUR BACON FROM IN IRELAND?

>> FROM THE PIG, AN IRISH PIG.

>> FROM YOUR OWN PIG?

>> MY OWN PIG, YEAH.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) LIKE MANY IRISH IMMIGRANTS WHO CAME TO CHICAGO, MAUREEN GREW UP IN THE IRISH COUNTRYSIDE, WHERE MOST EVERYTHING SHE ATE CAME RIGHT FROM HER BACKYARD.

>> CABBAGE AND TURNIPS AND CARROTS AND PARSNIPS-- SEE, IT'S ALL WHOLESOME FOOD THAT GROWS IN THE GARDEN, GROWS THERE AND IT'S WHOLESOME.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) OF COURSE IT WOULDN'T BE AN IRISH MEAL WITHOUT POTATOES.

MAUREEN COOKS THEM SEPARATELY FROM THE REST OF THE FOOD, TO MAKE SURE THE SPUDS KEEP THEIR FLAVOR.

>> YOU SEE HOW THE, THEY'RE SMILING.

WE CALL THAT SMILING, NOW.

LAUGHING, BECAUSE IT OPENED OUT.

>> NOW WHAT MAKES A PARTICULARLY GOOD POTATO?

>> WHAT MAKES A GOOD POTATO?

>> YEAH, WHAT MAKES... >> WELL, TO GROW IT IN GOOD IRISH SOIL.

>> OH...

IN IRELAND, PEASANTS PRACTICALLY LIVED ON POTATOES.

AND IT PROVED TRAGIC IN 1845.

AN AIRBORNE FUNGUS WIPED OUT THE COUNTRY'S POTATO CROPS.

NEARLY A MILLION PEOPLE DIED, AND ANOTHER ONE AND A HALF MILLION FLED.

MANY LANDED IN CHICAGO.

IRISH IMMIGRANTS HAD INITIALLY COME HERE FOR JOBS DIGGING THE ILLINOIS AND MICHIGAN CANAL, WHICH LINKED THE GREAT LAKES TO THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

LATER, THEY SERVED AS UNSKILLED LABORERS IN PLACES LIKE THE STEEL MILLS, RAILROADS, AND STOCKYARDS.

NO ONE IS QUITE SURE HOW CORNED BEEF BECAME POPULAR WITH IRISH-AMERICANS.

ONE THEORY IS THAT IT GOES BACK TO NEW YORK'S LOWER EAST SIDE, WHERE THE IRISH VISITED JEWISH BUTCHERS, WHO'D BROUGHT THE FOOD FROM EASTERN EUROPE.

IS THERE ANY CORN IN CORN BEEF, WHY IS IT CALLED CORN BEEF?

WINSTON'S SAUSAGE ON THE SOUTHWEST SIDE HAS BEEN MAKING CORNED BEEF SINCE 1960.

>> THE OLD DAYS, THEY USED TO USE SALT ABOUT THE SIZE OF CORN, AND THAT WOULD PRESERVE IT TO MAKE IT CORN BEEF.

>> AND THIS MACHINE IS TURNING IT INTO CORN BEEF?

>> IT WILL.

THE NEEDLES PENETRATE THE MUSCLE AND PUT THE SALT AND THE SUGARS INTO THE BEEF.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WINSTON'S ALSO SELLS THAT IRISH BACON MAUREEN MADE FOR ME, AND ALL KINDS OF IRISH SAUSAGES TOO.

THE COMPANY WAS STARTED BY JERRY'S FATHER MICHAEL.

WHEN HE IMMIGRATED IN THE 1960'S HE NOTICED THAT WHILE THERE WAS A HUGE IRISH-AMERICAN POPULATION IN CHICAGO, THERE WASN'T A WHOLE LOT OF REAL IRISH FOOD.

>> WELL, I THINK THE IRISH-AMERICANS REALLY GO BACK TO THEIR ROOTS IN MARCH WHEN THEY GO TO THE DRIVE-THRU MCDONALDS AND THEY GO FOR THE SHAMROCK SHAKE.

>> OKAY.

>> DIG IN!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT A NEW WAVE OF IRISH IMMIGRANTS LIKE MICHAEL WINSTON AND MAUREEN O'LOONEY HELPED REVIVE TRADITIONAL IRISH CULTURE IN CHICAGO.

FROM MUSIC... TO DANCE... TO FOOD.

>> YOU BEGIN TO SEE THE IRISH SORT OF TURNING AROUND AND EMBRACING THEIR IRISHNESS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND NOW IN CHICAGO YOU CAN FIND PLENTY OF IRISH FOOD, AT PUBS AND RESTAURANTS LIKE CHIEF O'NEILL'S.

SO WHEN YOU THINK OF IRISH FOOD DO YOU THINK OF FISH?

I DIDN'T.

THE CHEF HERE TOLD US THAT SALMON IS VERY BIG THERE.

THE FOOD HERE REFLECTS RECENT CHANGES THAT HAVE TAKEN PLACE IN IRELAND.

THE COUNTRY HAS BECOME WEALTHIER, ATTRACTED IMMIGRANTS FROM ALL OVER EUROPE, AND EVEN THE WORLD AND THEY'VE INFLUENCED THE CUISINE.

RESTAURANTS LIKE THIS ONE ARE STARTING TO BRING THAT INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR BACK TO CHICAGO.

>> ITS GIVING THE FOOD MORE DIMENSION, GIVING IT A LITTLE MORE DEPTH.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT'S SUSHI NIGHT AT DA'NALIS, A KOSHER PIZZA PLACE IN SKOKIE.

WHERE MOST OF THE CUSTOMERS ARE RELIGIOUS JEWS.

>> SO WE HAVE THE VEGETABLE SUSHI, WE HAVE SALMON, WE HAVE TUNA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT'S ACTUALLY RELATIVELY EASY TO MAKE SUSHI THAT CONFORMS TO JEWISH DIETARY LAWS.

THEY CAN USE ANY FISH THAT HAS FINS AND EASILY REMOVABLE SCALES.

>> SHELLFISH AND CRUSTACEANS ARE NOT KOSHER.

SO FOR INSTANCE WE HAVE WHAT LOOKS LIKE CRAB, IT'S NOT CRAB.

IT'S REALLY MADE OF WHITING.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT MAKING SURE THE PIZZA IS KOSHER IS A LITTLE MORE COMPLICATED.

>> WHEN THE DOUGH RISES, A SMALL PORTION HAS TO BE TAKEN OFF, AND BURNED UP IN THE OVEN.

IT'S A REMEMBRANCE OF WHEN THE TEMPLE STOOD IN JERUSALEM OVER TWO THOUSAND YEARS AGO, OF GIVING A PORTION OF EVERYTHING TO GOD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BECAUSE PIZZA DOUGH IS ESSENTIALLY BREAD, THE CUSTOMERS SAY THE TRADITIONAL PRAYER OVER BREAD BEFORE THEY START EATING.

[JEWISH PRAYER] AND YOU'RE NOT GOING TO FIND A CHEESE AND SAUSAGE PIZZA HERE.

>> BIBLICALLY WE'RE TAUGHT THAT YOU CANNOT EAT MEAT WITH MILK.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN FACT, THEY EVEN USE SPECIAL VEGETARIAN OR BIO-ENGINEERED CHEESE, INSTEAD OF CHEESES MADE WITH ANIMAL ENZYMES.

>> THE WAY YOU KNOW IT'S KOSHER IS THAT IT HAS A HECKSCHER ON IT.

A HECKSCHER IS LIKE A STAMP BY AN APPROVED AGENCY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IF IT WAS MADE HERE IN CHICAGO, THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE IT WAS APPROVED BY THE CHICAGO RABBINICAL COUNCIL.

>> NOW THIS HAS IN IT: BUTTER FAT... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY SEND RABBIS TO CAREFULLY INSPECT LOCAL FACTORIES, TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S MADE ACCORDING TO JEWISH LAW.

>> WHAT DO YOU NEED, MY MAN?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) OF COURSE, WHEN WE THINK OF JEWISH FOOD, WE TEND TO THINK OF THIS.

[DELI NOISE] BUT MOST OF CHICAGO'S CLASSIC JEWISH DELIS LIKE MANNY'S AREN'T KOSHER AT ALL.

>> MOVE THE LINE, MOVE THE LINE BUDDY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHAT MAKES THESE FOODS JEWISH IS THAT THEY WERE BROUGHT TO AMERICA BY JEWS FROM EASTERN EUROPE.

BETWEEN 1880 AND 1925 ABOUT TWO MILLION EASTERN EUROPEAN JEWS IMMIGRATED TO AMERICA.

MANY CAME FROM RURAL TOWNS CALLED SHTETLS.

NOW IS THIS A LOT LIKE WHAT WE WOULD HAVE SEEN IN A SHTETL?

>> VERY MUCH SO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ON FRIDAY AFTERNOONS, STORES ALONG DEVON AVENUE IN WEST ROGERS PARK ARE PACKED WITH OBSERVANT JEWS PREPARING FOR THE SABBATH.

>> IN THE SHTETL EVERYTHING WOULD BE VERY CROWDED AND YOU WOULD HAVE ALL THE STORES IN ONE CENTRAL STREET.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) LIKE MANY JEWS IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD, YOHANAN PETROVSKY EMIGRATED FROM THE FORMER SOVIET UNION.

AND HE'S A HISTORIAN OF EASTERN EUROPE, SO HE KNOWS HOW THIS NEIGHBORHOOD LOOKS, AND EVEN TASTES LIKE THE OLD COUNTRY.

>> THE BAGEL.

NOW THAT'S JEWISH FOOD, RIGHT?

>> UH, YOU THINK.

HOWEVER, THE RECIPE, IS A SLAVIC RECIPE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT TURNS OUT THAT MANY OF THE FOODS WE THINK OF AS JEWISH, ARE ACTUALLY BORROWED OR ADAPTED FROM OTHER EUROPEAN ETHNIC GROUPS.

>> IN RUSSIAN ITS CALLED BUBLIK.

>> BUBLIK.

>> BUT WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT YOU WOULD SAY "IT'S A BAGEL!"

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AS JEWS HAVE MIGRATED, THEY'VE SPREAD THESE FOODS AROUND THE WORLD.

>> WELL, BASICALLY THIS IS CALLED IN RUSSIAN, "REGALIC" AND JEWS BORROWED THE WORD MAKING IT INTO YIDDISH "RUGALA."

BORSCHT IS, TYPICAL RUSSIAN AND UKRAINIAN, CERTAINLY JEWS BORROWED THE WORD AND THE RECIPE.

GEFILTE MOST LIKELY THE WORD AND THE CONCEPT WAS BORROWED FROM THE GERMAN CULTURE.

KASHA IS BUCKWHEAT, WHICH WAS USED BY RUSSIAN, UKRAINIAN, POLISH PEASANTRY BEFORE THE RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT BROUGHT POTATOES.

>> NOW VODKA.

THIS IS NOT JEWISH BUT THERE'S SOMETHING JEWISH ABOUT IT RIGHT?

>> OH, YOU WON'T BELIEVE.

FOR SOME SIX HUNDRED YEARS, JEWS WERE THE ONLY ONES WHO WERE PRIVILEGED WITH DISTILLING AND SELLING THE ALCOHOL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE SLAVS KNEW THEY COULD TRUST JEWS TO SELL THE ALCOHOL WITHOUT DRINKING IT ALL.

JEWS WEREN'T KNOWN TO BE BIG DRINKERS.

>> UKRAINIAN PEASANTS WOULD SAY, [IN UKRAINIAN] MEANING "JEWS ARE FOOLS.

"THEY HAVE VODKA AND THEY SELL IT."

>> THIS IS A LAMB TAGINE, IT'S TYPICALLY MOROCCAN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FOR LAURA FRANKEL, JEWISH FOOD IS A LOT MORE THAN BAGELS AND KASHA.

>> THIS IS A BULGHAR AND A KALAMATA OLIVE FLAT BREAD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SHE MIGHT COME FROM A EUROPEAN JEWISH FAMILY, BUT AS A PROFESSIONAL KOSHER CHEF... >> AND THEN OUR DRIED FRUIT GOES IN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ...SHE LIKES TO EXPLORE CUISINES FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

>> THIS DISH IS A LACHAMAGINE.

IT'S ALMOST LIKE A PIZZA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TONIGHT'S MENU IS INSPIRED BY THE SEPHARDIC JEWS.

IT'S HEAVILY INFLUENCED BY THE FOODS OF THE MIDDLE EAST AND NORTH AFRICA WHERE THESE JEWS HAVE LIVED FOR CENTURIES.

>> THIS KIND OF FOOD ACTUALLY IS MORE INTERESTING.

IT'S A LOT OF FLAVOR.

I CAN KICK IT UP WITH SOME SPICES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT THIS KOSHER CHEF DIDN'T ALWAYS KEEP KOSHER.

SHE GREW UP IN A NONRELIGIOUS HOUSEHOLD.

♪♪ BUT HER DECISION TO KEEP KOSHER WAS ULTIMATELY LESS ABOUT PLEASING HER PALATE AND MORE ABOUT REDISCOVERING HER ROOTS.

>> WE LIKED THE OPTION OF HAVING THE CHILDREN LEARN ABOUT THEIR HERITAGE AND THIS-- THOUSANDS OF YEARS OF RICHNESS THAT REALLY WE DIDN'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT OURSELVES UNTIL WE STARTED EXPLORING AND LEARNING ABOUT IT.

ONCE YOU TAKE ONE STEP, THE NEXT ONE COMES AND THE NEXT ONE COMES AND PRETTY SOON BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, YOU'RE ALL IN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MANY OF US HEARD THE SAME THING WHEN WE WERE KIDS.

"FINISH YOUR FOOD, "THERE ARE PEOPLE STARVING IN CHINA!"

WELL, YOUR PARENTS WERE RIGHT.

THIS WAS ONE OF THOSE STARVING PEOPLE.

[IN CANTONESE] >> SHE, SHE SAID BASICALLY, THEY WERE SO POOR THEY JUST USED THE SMELL OF THE FRYING FISH FROM THE RICH NEIGHBOR ACROSS THE WAY TO GO WITH THE RICE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AS THE FLAVOR.

>> YEAH, EXACTLY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MRS. JEW LIVES IN CHICAGO'S CHINATOWN, BUT SHE GREW UP IN TOISAN, A BELEAGUERED COUNTY IN SOUTHERN CHINA THAT WAS DEVASTATED BY OVERPOPULATION, FLOODS, DROUGHTS AND FAMINE.

MOST OF CHICAGO'S EARLY CHINESE IMMIGRANTS CAME FROM THAT ONE COUNTY.

INCLUDING GENE MOY'S FAMILY.

>> (GENE MOY) WHEN WE HAD FOOD TO EAT, IT WAS A LOT OF PRESERVED FOODS, LIKE PICKLES, SALTED FISH, SALTED PORK, SALTED SHRIMP PASTE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN TOISAN THEY WOULD SCRAPE TOGETHER WHATEVER INGREDIENTS THEY COULD FIND AND USE THEM TO FLAVOR THEIR RICE.

IT'S A DISH THEY CALL... [IN CANTONESE] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT YOU PROBABLY KNOW IT AS FRIED RICE.

IT'S VERY, VERY GOOD.

PEOPLE STARTED LEAVING TOISAN FOR AMERICA IN THE 1850S.

MANY FOUND JOBS IN CALIFORNIA WORKING ON THE TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD.

BUT THEY OFTEN ENCOUNTERED BRUTAL RACISM THERE.

>> THEY WOULD BE HARASSED BY GANGS OF ROVING THUGS IN THE STREETS.

LIKE FOR INSTANCE IN LOS ANGELES IN THE 1870S, WHERE CHINESE WERE DRAGGED FROM THEIR BEDS AND LYNCHED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MANY FOUND THEIR WAY TO CHICAGO.

THIS TENDED TO BE A LESS HOSTILE PLACE.

BECAUSE SO MANY CHICAGOANS WERE IMMIGRANTS, THE CHINESE DIDN'T STAND OUT SO MUCH.

>> NOBODY SPOKE ENGLISH.

EVERYBODY HAD A FUNNY ACCENT.

EVERYBODY WORE STRANGE CLOTHES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY STARTED SETTLING IN CHINATOWN IN THE 1870'S-- BUT NOT THE ONE WE KNOW TODAY.

CHICAGO'S ORIGINAL CHINATOWN WAS AROUND CLARK AND VAN BUREN.

CHINESE FOOD REALLY STARTED CATCHING ON HERE AFTER 1900, THANKS TO A DISH THAT WASN'T EVEN CHINESE.

>> SO CHOP SUEY ESSENTIALLY IS THE GREATEST CULINARY PRACTICAL JOKE PLAYED UPON AMERICANS EVER.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHOP SUEY-- WHICH LITERALLY MEANS "MIXED PIECES"-- WAS PROBABLY INVENTED IN NEW YORK.

AMERICANS WERE EXCITED BY THE DISH BECAUSE IT INCLUDED EXOTIC INGREDIENTS-- OR AT LEAST THEY SEEMED EXOTIC AT THE TIME.

>> IT ALWAYS HAS BEAN SPROUTS.

BEAN SPROUTS WERE TOTALLY UNKNOWN TO AMERICANS.

WATER CHESTNUTS WHICH HAD TO COME FROM CHINA, AND CHOP SUEY IS ALWAYS MADE WITH CELERY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SOON THERE WERE OTHER AMERICANIZED DISHES LIKE CHOW MEIN, WHICH WAS BASICALLY CHOP SUEY WITH FRIED NOODLES.

AND EGG FOO YOUNG, WHICH IS MORE OR LESS AN OMELET.

KEEP IN MIND THESE DISHES WERE BEING CONCOCTED BY AMATEUR CHEFS FROM TOISAN, A REGION OF CHINA WHERE FOOD WAS SCARCE.

THESE CHEFS TOOK THE CUISINE OF TOISAN AND ADDED MORE MEAT, MORE OIL, AND A FEW AMERICAN INGREDIENTS FOR GOOD MEASURE.

>> FOR INSTANCE, SOMETIMES YOU'LL SEE, LIKE, LOBSTER WITH CHEESE AND IT'S LIKE, WELL, CHEESE IS NOT AN INDIGENOUS CHINESE FOOD!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AMERICANS CALLED THIS CUISINE CANTONESE, THAT ISN'T ENTIRELY WRONG-- TOISAN IS IN A PROVINCE WE USED TO CALL CANTON, AND THEY SPEAK A DIALECT OF CANTONESE THERE.

CHINATOWN MOVED FROM CLARK AND VAN BUREN TO ITS CURRENT LOCATION IN 1910, PARTLY BECAUSE OF A DISPUTE BETWEEN TWO RIVAL FRATERNAL SOCIETIES CALLED TONGS.

CHINESE RESTAURANTS WERE ONCE SOME OF THE FANCIEST EATERIES IN CHICAGO.

THEY FEATURED THE LATEST BIG BANDS, AND SERVED FILET MIGNON AND FRENCH PEAS ALONGSIDE CHOP SUEY.

CHINATOWN'S OLDEST RESTAURANT IS WON KOW, WHICH HAS BEEN IN THE SAME UPSTAIRS LOCATION SINCE 1927.

YOU CAN GET THE OLD CANTONESE STANDARDS HERE, BUT THEY ALSO HAVE DIM SUM.

♪♪ DIM SUM CONSISTS OF DUMPLINGS AND OTHER STEAMED DISHES THAT ARE TRADITIONALLY SERVED WITH TEA.

THIS WAS ONE OF MANY NEW AND EXCITING TYPES OF CHINESE FOOD THAT SWEPT CHICAGO AFTER WORLD WAR TWO.

STARTING IN THE 1950S A SLEW OF NEW IMMIGRANTS FROM HONG KONG AND MANDARIN-SPEAKING PEOPLE FROM TAIWAN AND MAINLAND CHINA BROUGHT A WIDE ARRAY OF NEW FOODS TO CHICAGO.

BUT ALL MOST AMERICANS KNEW WAS THAT THEIR FOOD WAS SPICIER, AND THEY CALLED IT ALL MANDARIN.

>> WHAT MANDARIN REALLY MEANT SOMETHING DIFFERENT FROM CHOP SUEY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MANY OF THESE NEW IMMIGRANTS WERE PROFESSIONALS AND STUDENTS, WHO SETTLED IN THE SUBURBS.

THEY RARELY VENTURED INTO CHINATOWN, PARTLY BECAUSE THEY COULDN'T COMMUNICATE WITH THE TOISANESE.

>> CANTONESE IS LIKE ANOTHER FOREIGN LANGUAGE TO ME.

SOMETIMES WE HAVE TO COMMUNICATE WITH THEM IN ENGLISH.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT MORE RECENTLY, PEOPLE FROM MAINLAND CHINA HAVE BEEN FINDING THEIR WAY TO CHINATOWN.

[SLURPING] THE OWNERS OF THIS RESTAURANT, SPRING WORLD, ARE FROM YUNNAN PROVINCE.

>> THESE RESTAURANTS, RIGHT NOW, JUST BECAUSE OF THE SHEER NUMBER OF CHINESE LIVING HERE, THEY CAN SUSTAIN THEIR BUSINESS.

SO THEY TEND TO BECOME MORE AND MORE AUTHENTIC.

WOW!

[SLURPING] >> OPA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) GREEK RESTAURANTS JUST WOULDN'T BE THE SAME WITHOUT FLAMING SAGANAKI.

>> OPA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT SURPRISINGLY, IT'S NOT GREEK.

IT WAS INVENTED IN CHICAGO.

>> OPA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AT LEAST ACCORDING TO THIS MAN, WHO CLAIMS HE WAS THE FIRST TO LIGHT HIS CHEESE ON FIRE.

CHRIS LIAKORIS OWNS THE PARTHENON RESTAURANT IN GREEKTOWN.

WHEN HE OPENED THIS PLACE IN 1968, HE FRIED THE SAGANAKI IN THE KITCHEN-- JUST LIKE THEY DID IN GREECE.

BUT THEN A CUSTOMER GAVE HIM A BETTER IDEA.

>> ONE OF THEM SAID, WHY DON'T YOU PUT A SHOT OF A BRANDY ON IT AND FLAME IT.

THEY BRING TWO MORE SAGINAKIS, SHOT OF METAXA, WE FLAME IT, OPA, IT GOES UP IN THE AIR, BEAUTIFUL.

I LOVE IT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT TOOK CHRIS A WHILE TO PERFECT HIS FLAMING SAGANAKI...

BUT EVENTUALLY IT CAUGHT ON.

AND NOW MOST CHICAGOANS KNOW AT LEAST ONE WORD OF GREEK.

>> OPA!

>> OPA IS A EXPRESSION OF HAPPINESS.

IF YOU, SOMEONE IS DANCING, EVERYBODY THEY GO, OPA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FROM GREEKTOWN, TO THE CITY'S CANDY INDUSTRY, TO YOUR LOCAL DINER, GREEKS HAVE HAD A HUGE IMPACT ON HOW THIS CITY EATS.

[IN GREEK] BUT FOR GREEKS, THE REAL HEART AND SOUL OF THE COMMUNITY IS IN THE GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH.

OF COURSE, YOU'LL FIND THAT EVEN HERE FOOD PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE.

BACK IN THE KITCHEN AT ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH IN EDGEWATER, THE FAITHFUL GATHER TO MAKE HUGE GREEK MEALS FOR THEIR ANNUAL FESTIVALS.

>> EVERYBODY IS IN THE KITCHEN COOKING AND BAKING FOR WEEKS AND PREPARING.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SOME OF THE FOODS HERE ACTUALLY SERVE A SACRED PURPOSE.

INSTEAD OF COMMUNION WAFERS, GREEKS USE THIS ALTAR BREAD.

>> THIS IS CALLED PROSPORO OR ENDERIDO.

WHEN WOMEN MAKE THE BREAD THERE'S ACTUALLY A STAMP IN IT MEANS "JESUS CHRIST CONQUERS."

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS CAKE MAY LOOK FESTIVE, BUT IT'S RESERVED FOR SOLEMN OCCASIONS.

WHEN SOMEONE DIES, THEIR LOVED ONES EAT THIS FOLLOWING THE MEMORIAL SERVICE.

>> THIS IS CALLED COLAVA OR SATARI SO COLAVA IS A WHEAT BASED DISH.

WHEAT REPRESENTS THE RESURRECTION.

SO THAT WHICH IS PLANTED INTO THE GROUND, IT'S FROM THE SCRIPTURE, RISES ANEW WITH RESURRECTION IN HOPES THAT OUR LOVED ONES THAT HAVE DEPARTED WILL THEN BE RESURRECTED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) LOOKING AROUND THE KITCHEN HERE, YOU'LL FIND THAT MANY OF THE DISHES CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE SAME REGION OF GREECE-- THE PELOPONNESE.

THAT'S BECAUSE MOST OF CHICAGO'S GREEKS HAVE ROOTS THERE.

>> (ALEXA GANAKOS) THIS IS CALLED DOKSA, WHICH IS THE NAME OF THE VILLAGE WHERE IT'S FROM, GORTINAS CHICKEN.

AND HAVING CHICKEN WAS A VERY SPECIAL THING FOR THEM.

THE AREA OF THE PELOPONNESE WAS VERY MOUNTAINOUS.

THEY HAD A FEW GOATS AND CHICKENS AND THEY GREW WHAT THEY COULD AS FAR AS AGRICULTURE AND REALLY MADE THE MOST OF EVERYTHING THERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT WAS HARD TIMES IN THE PELOPONNESE THAT DROVE GREEKS TO CHICAGO...

SHORTLY AFTER THE GREAT FIRE OF 1871.

THEY WERE LEAD HERE BY A PIONEER NAMED CHRIS CHACONAS.

HE KNEW THAT CHICAGO NEEDED LABORERS TO HELP REBUILD, SO HE RETURNED TO HIS HOMETOWN NEAR SPARTA AND SPREAD THE WORD.

HE CAME TO BE KNOWN AS THE COLUMBUS OF SPARTA.

>> TO THIS DAY WHEN I SEE THE CHICAGO WATER TOWER, I JUST HAVE A NEW SENSE OF FEELING THAT MY ANCESTORS ACTUALLY HELPED TO REBUILD THE CITY AS WELL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) GREEK LABORERS SOON BEGAN SETTLING SOUTH OF THE CURRENT GREEK TOWN, IN AN AREA KNOWN AS THE DELTA.

MOST OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD WAS DEMOLISHED IN THE 1950S AND '60S TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE EISENHOWER EXPRESSWAY AND THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS.

BUT AT ONE TIME THE DELTA WAS THE LARGEST GREEK SETTLEMENT IN AMERICA-- AS MANY AS 40,000 GREEKS LIVED THERE.

MANY GREEKS GOT INTO THE FOOD BUSINESS-- SELLING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.

SOME EVENTUALLY GREW THEIR BUSINESSES INTO GROCERY STORES AND RESTAURANTS.

BUT WHILE CHICAGO'S ITALIANS STARTED ITALIAN RESTAURANTS, AND THE CHINESE OPENED CHINESE RESTAURANTS, GREEKS TOOK A DIFFERENT APPROACH.

>> THEY, EARLY ON, REALIZED THAT THERE ARE NOT ENOUGH GREEKS IN THE CITY TO OPEN GREEK RESTAURANTS SOLELY SERVING GREEKS.

SO, THEY'RE AMBITIOUS AND THEY BRANCH OUT AND THEY MOVE OUT INTO OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS IN THE CITY AND THEY START TO OPEN LUNCHROOMS.

AND THESE ARE WORKING MEN'S RESTAURANTS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MANY OF THESE LUNCHROOMS EVOLVED INTO MORE FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS AFTER WORLD WAR TWO-- WHEN A GROWING NUMBER OF FAMILIES HAD THE DISPOSABLE INCOME TO EAT OUT.

>> GREEK ENTREPRENEURS, START PUTTING IN BOOTHS.

THEY MOVED THE KITCHEN INTO THE BACK SO THAT YOU CAN'T SEE THE COOK ANYMORE.

THE GOT A WAITRESS OUT IN FRONT SO THAT YOU'VE GOT A WOMAN'S FACE TO PUT A KIND OF MORE FEMININE EDGE.

THEY HAVE TREMENDOUS MENUS THAT OFFER EVERYTHING UNDER THE SUN.

AND THEY BECOME VERY POPULAR.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) LOU MITCHELL'S IS ONE CLASSIC EXAMPLE.

THIS GREEK-OWNED INSTITUTION IS ON THE NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES-- IT'S BEEN AT THE SAME LOCATION ON JACKSON BOULEVARD SINCE 1923.

AT LEAST ONE GREEK ITEM FOUND ITS WAY ONTO THE MENU AT THESE GREEK-AMERICAN RESTAURANTS.

CHICAGO GREW INTO AMERICA'S GYROS MANUFACTURING CAPITAL.

THIS COMPANY, GRECIAN DELIGHTS, MAKES 40% OF THE NATION'S GYROS.

ITS FOUNDER WAS ACTUALLY AN ENGINEER, WHO INVENTED "THE AUTODONER"-- THAT NOW-FAMILIAR DEVICE THAT THEY USE TO COOK THE GYROS.

OTHER GREEKS STARTED CANDY SHOPS.

MARGIE'S ON THE NORTH SIDE IS ONE OF THE ONLY ONES LEFT-- IT'S STILL OWNED BY THE POULOS FAMILY, WHO OPENED IT IN 1921.

DOVE CANDIES' STORES ON THE SOUTH SIDE ARE ALL GONE...

BUT THE ICE CREAM CREATION OF ITS FOUNDER LEO STEFANOS CAN NOW BE FOUND ALL OVER THE COUNTRY.

>> YES SIR, WHAT YOU LIKE?

>> AH, I'D LIKE A... WHAT'S BEST?

>> THE BEST-- DOUBLE CHEESE THE BEST.

>> OKAY, A DOUBLE CHEESE BURGER AND FRIES.

>> NO FRIES, CHIPS!

>> OKAY AND A PEPSI.

>> NO PEPSI, COKE!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DOWN ON LOWER MICHIGAN AVENUE YOU'LL FIND CHICAGO'S MOST FAMOUS GREEK-OWNED RESTAURANT, THE BILLY GOAT TAVERN.

>> CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS PLACE WAS CATAPULTED TO NATIONAL FAME IN 1978 BY A SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE SKIT.

>> CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER, CHEESEBORGER.

>> JOHN BELUSHI AND DAN ACKROYD, THEY GOT THEIR PRONUNCIATION, THE WAY YOU SAY IT... >> YES.

CHEESEBORGER... >> DID THEY COME HERE AND LISTEN TO YOU SAY IT?

>> YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.

>> NO FRIES.

CHIPS.

>> ALL THOSE GUYS, THEY USED TO WORK IN SECOND CITY.

THEY USED TO COME HERE, RIGHT OVER HERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SAM'S UNCLE, BILL SIANIS, OPENED THE ORIGINAL TAVERN ACROSS FROM CHICAGO STADIUM IN 1934.

HE CALLED IT THE LINCOLN TAVERN, BUT WHEN A GOAT FELL OFF A PASSING TRUCK AND WANDERED INSIDE, BILL EARNED THE NICKNAME "BILLY GOAT", AND HE CHANGED THE TAVERN'S NAME.

BUT HE PUT A NAME UP ON THE WALL THAT'S A LITTLE HARDER TO PRONOUNCE.

IF YOU SAY IT CORRECTLY YOU GET A FREE BEER.

>> I CAN'T EVEN, I CAN'T EVEN BEGIN TO PRONOUNCE THAT.

HOW DO YOU SAY IT... GIMMIE THE NAME.

[GREEK PRONUNCIATION] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) BILL SIANIS AND HIS GOAT PLAYED A LEGENDARY ROLE IN CHICAGO CUBS HISTORY.

IN 1945, BILL TRIED TO BRING HIS PET INTO WRIGLEY FIELD FOR GAME FOUR OF THE WORLD SERIES, BUT THE GOAT WAS DENIED ENTRANCE.

BILL WAS OUTRAGED.

HE DECLARED THAT THE CUBS WOULD NEVER WIN A WORLD SERIES AGAIN, SO LONG AS THE GOAT WAS SHUT OUT.

SAM'S TRIED MANY TIMES TO UNDO THE HEX.

THE CUBS HAVE WISELY LET HIM BRING HIS OWN GOAT ONTO THE FIELD.

WHERE DO YOU GET THE GOAT FROM?

>> LAPORTE, INDIANA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS IS REALLY YOUR GOAT?

>> YES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT DESPITE SAM'S EFFORTS, THE CURSE SEEMS TO LIVE ON... >> HERE IS THE BRAISED LAMB.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHILE FOOD WAS SO OFTEN THE TICKET TO THE AMERICAN DREAM FOR GREEK IMMIGRANTS.

>> DELICIOUS!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) GREEK FOOD DIDN'T REALLY CATCH ON HERE UNTIL THE 1960S.

BUT IT WASN'T JUST GYROS, MOUSSAKA, AND BAKLAVA THAT DREW CHICAGOANS TO GREEK TOWN.

IT WAS ALSO THE FUN.

>> FLAMING CHEESE, SINGING WAITERS, THEY GO IN VERY BIG FOR ENTERTAINMENT.

>> CHEERS, TO US.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY GAVE THEIR RESTAURANTS A SPIRIT THAT CAN BEST BE DESCRIBED WITH THE ONE WORD IN GREEK THAT EVERY CHICAGOAN KNOWS.

>> OPA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) COMING UP: CHICAGO'S CANDY INDUSTRY, AND GERMAN, PUERTO RICAN, INDIAN AND ITALIAN FOOD!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHICAGO WAS ONCE AMERICA'S UNDISPUTED CANDY CAPITAL.

SNICKERS, BUTTERFINGERS, LEMON HEADS, PIXIES, MILK DUDS, JUICY FRUIT, FRANGO MINTS, TOOTSIE ROLLS, BRACH PEPPERMINTS, AND SO MANY OTHERS ALL CAME FROM CHICAGO.

>> OH, YEAH.

BACK IN THE EARLY '60S, LATE '50S, ALMOST EVERY OTHER BLOCK HAD SOME TYPE OF CANDY STORE, EVEN THE MOM AND POP-TYPE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) JERRY MEYERS HAS WORKED IN CHICAGO'S CANDY INDUSTRY FOR 40 YEARS.

ONE OF HIS BIGGEST CLAIMS TO FAME?

JERRY INVENTED FANNIE MAY'S FAMOUS EGGNOG CREAM CANDY.

>> I ACTUALLY WENT OUT AND I BOUGHT ABOUT FIVE QUARTS OF DIFFERENT BRANDS OF EGGNOG.

TASTED 'EM, AND TASTED 'EM, AND TASTED 'EM UNTIL I COULD MATCH WHAT I THOUGHT WOULD BE A GOOD EGGNOG FLAVOR.

>> AND THEN YOU'RE-- THEN YOU WENT TO YOUR CARDIOLOGIST AFTER THAT, RIGHT?

JERRY HAS A CHOCOHOLICS' DREAM JOB.

>> WHAT WE'RE BASICALLY GONNA DO IS TASTE THIS MILK CHOCOLATE HERE-- >> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT INVOLVES TASTING A LOT OF CHOCOLATE-- AND HE'S QUITE GOOD AT IT.

>> PUT IT ON YOUR TONGUE.

>> AT THE TIP OF THE TONGUE?

>> JUST THE TIP OF THE TONGUE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHERE I MIGHT JUST TASTE THE OBVIOUS.

UH, CHOC-- OH, IT'S CHOCOLATE.

HE TASTES ALL KINDS OF FLAVORS.

>> CHOCOLATE, SWEET, DAIRY, AND THEN BITTER AT THE END.

>> NOW, ARE YOU LIKE A DANCER?

IS YOUR TONGUE INSURED BY THE LLOYDS OF LONDON OR SOMETHING?

>> NO, IT'S NOT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) PART OF WHAT MADE CHICAGO SUCH A CANDY MANUFACTURING HUB WAS ITS SIZEABLE EUROPEAN IMMIGRANT POPULATION, WHO BROUGHT CANDY-MAKING SKILLS OVER WITH THEM.

AND THE MIDWEST HAD ALL OF THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS TOO.

>> WE USE A LOT OF CORN SYRUP AND SUGAR.

AND CORN, AS YOU KNOW, IS GROWN IN THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY, AND WE USE DAIRIES FROM THE MIDWEST.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AT THE TOOTSIE ROLL FACTORY ON CHICAGO'S SOUTHWEST SIDE THESE MID-WESTERN INGREDIENTS ARE COOKED, MIXED TOGETHER, COOLED AND FORMED INTO THESE GIGANTIC TOOTSIE ROLLS.

>> AND IT'S GOING THROUGH AN EXTRUDER SO THAT IT'S IN MANAGEABLE SIZES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SO, THIS IS NOT GOING TO BE ONE BIG TOOTSIE ROLL HERE?

>> NO.

NO.

THIS PIECE OF TOOTSIE ROLL IS GOING TO BE INTO SOME HUNDREDS OF PIECES OF SMALL TOOTSIE ROLLS.

>> OH, OKAY.

THE RECIPE FOR THE TOOTSIE ROLL WAS BROUGHT OVER FROM AUSTRIA BY LEO HIRSHFIELD.

HE NAMED HIS CANDY AFTER HIS DAUGHTER, WHOSE NICKNAME WAS "TOOTSIE".

HOW MANY TOOTSIE ROLLS DO YOU CRANK OUT OF HERE EVERYDAY?

>> OH, WE MAKE ABOUT 66 MILLION TOOTSIE ROLLS EVERY SINGLE DAY.

>> A DAY?

>> A DAY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY ALSO MAKE TOOTSIE POPS HERE.

AND DOTS, THOSE GUM DROPS ON STEROIDS THAT YOU GET AT THE MOVIE THEATER.

AFTER MORE THAN A CENTURY OF BEING AMERICA'S CANDY CAPITAL, IN THE LAST DECADE MANY OF CHICAGO'S BIG CANDY COMPANIES HAVE GONE UNDER, OR MOVED THEIR MANUFACTURING ABROAD.

BUT SOME SAY THE FUTURE OF CHICAGO'S CANDY INDUSTRY LIES IN SO-CALLED ARTISANAL CHOCOLATE MAKERS, LIKE CHOCOLATE POTPOURRI IN GLENVIEW.

THESE SMALLER COMPANIES ADD A PERSONAL TOUCH TO THEIR CANDIES.

THESE ARE NOT MACHINES MAKING THE PRODUCTS HERE, RIGHT?

>> MACHINES DON'T DO THIS.

I THINK IT'S REALLY THE ATTENTION TO THE DETAIL AND THE LOVE THAT GOES INTO MAKING THE PRODUCT.

>> IS THIS GONNA MAKE CHICAGO BACK INTO A CANDY CAPITAL AGAIN?

>> I HOPE IT WOULD.

IT WOULD BE GREAT FOR CHICAGO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHICAGO HAS SATISFIED AMERICA'S SWEET TOOTH WITH MORE THAN JUST CANDY.

CHICAGO CONFECTIONER F. W. RUECKHEIM CREATED A CARAMEL-COVERED POPCORN, WHICH HE DEBUTED AT THE 1893 WORLD'S FAIR.

RUECKHEIM GAVE A SAMPLE TO ONE OF HIS SALESMEN, WHO EXCLAIMED, "THAT'S CRACKERJACK!"

THE CRACKER JACK BRAND WAS RELATIVELY OBSCURE, UNTIL 1908, WHEN IT GOT WHAT MIGHT HAVE BEEN THE BEST BIT OF FREE ADVERTISING IN AMERICAN HISTORY.

♪ BUY ME SOME PEANUTS ♪ ♪ AND CRACKERJACK... ♪ FOUR YEARS LATER THE COMPANY STARTED PUTTING "A PRIZE IN EVERY BOX."

THE FIRST DAIRY QUEEN STORE OPENED IN JOLIET IN 1940, WHERE IT INTRODUCED THE WORLD TO SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM.

THE TWINKIE WAS INVENTED AT THIS HOSTESS FACTORY IN SCHILLER PARK.

JAMES DEWAR, THE FACTORY'S MANAGER, NOTICED THAT THEIR SHORTCAKE PANS SAT IDLE EXCEPT DURING THE SIX WEEKS WHEN STRAWBERRIES WERE IN SEASON.

SO HE CAME UP WITH THE IDEA OF INJECTING A FILLING INTO THE CAKES AND SELLING THEM YEAR ROUND.

THEY WERE ORIGINALLY FILLED WITH BANANA CRÈME.

BUT THE FLAVOR WAS SWITCHED TO VANILLA DURING WORLD WAR TWO WHEN BANANAS WERE RATIONED FOR THE WAR EFFORT.

THE CARAMEL APPLE WAS INVENTED IN CHICAGO, AT LEAST ACCORDING TO THE AFFY TAPPLE COMPANY, WHICH STARTED MASS MARKETING THEM IN THE 1940S.

THE COMPANY'S NAME AFFY TAPPLE NOT ONLY CONVEYED FUN, BUT IT CONVENIENTLY PUT THEM FIRST IN THEIR SECTION OF THE PHONE BOOK.

AND THE BROWNIE IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN INVENTED AT CHICAGO'S PALMER HOUSE HOTEL.

ACCORDING TO THE STORY, SOCIALITE BERTHA PALMER DIRECTED THE HOTEL'S CHEF TO CREATE A NEW DESSERT FOR VISITORS TO THE 1893 WORLD'S FAIR.

THE HOTEL IS STILL MAKING THE SAME RECIPE THERE TODAY.

>> OY!

OY!

OY!

♪ HEY.

♪ ♪ WELCOME TO THE BRAUHAUS ♪ ♪ IN CHICAGO... ♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) ONE IN EVERY FOUR CHICAGOANS WAS GERMAN BACK IN 1900.

♪ WELCOME TO THE BRAUHAUS ♪ ♪ IN CHICAGO... ♪ CHICAGO ISN'T QUITE SO GERMAN ANYMORE.

BUT THERE'S STILL PLENTY OF GEMÜTLICHKEIT AT LOCAL GERMAN RESTAURANTS... WHERE YOU CAN GET A TASTE OF THE DAYS WHEN GERMAN FOOD WAS A CHICAGO MAINSTAY.

>> WHAT IS THE BRAUHAUS FAMOUS FOR?

LIVER DUMPLING SOUP.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HARRY KEMPF OWNS THE CHICAGO BRAUHAUS IN LINCOLN SQUARE.

>> THAT IS VERY GOOD FOR YOU!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE AGREED TO GIVE ME A BRIEF TUTORIAL ON GERMAN FOOD.

>> ALRIGHT, HERE WE GOT THE FAMOUS WIENER SCHNITZEL A LA HOLSTEIN.

HOLSTEIN MEANS THERE'S A FRIED EGG ON TOP.

>> IS THERE ANY PARTICULAR WAY TO EAT IT?

I MEAN, DO YOU BREAK THE EGG OR-- >> UH, WITH A FORK AND-- WITH A FORK AND KNIFE MOSTLY.

>> OKAY.

>> YEAH, MOSTLY WITH FORK AND KNIFE.

WITH IT COMES A BIG BOWL OF GOULASH SOUP.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) GOULASH, NOW THAT'S HUNGARIAN, RIGHT, NOT GERMAN?

>> GOULASH, EVERYTHING IS GERMAN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) EVERYTHING IS GERMAN, OKAY.

>> THE OTHER GUYS COPY EVERYTHING FROM US.

YOU KNOW, THIS IS HOW IT IS.

REALLY, I'M TELLING YOU THE TRUTH.

THIS, OF COURSE, IS A HERRING, A RAW HERRING, WHICH IS OUR SUSHI WITH A CREAM SAUCE AND PICKLES, AND A BOILED POTATO.

WITH THIS ALONG COMES OUR FAMOUS ROASTED DUCKLING.

NOW GET A LOAD OF THAT.

RED CABBAGE-- OR SAUERKRAUT.

SAUERKRAUT WAS INVENTED IN CHINA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WELL, HOW'D IT BECOME A GERMAN THING?

>> WELL, BECAUSE THE GERMANS, THEY MADE IT A LITTLE BETTER THAN THE CHINESE.

THEN OF COURSE- >> OH, SAUSAGE.

>> THE GERMAN BRATWURST >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS IS NOT THE HEART HEALTHY DIET, IS IT?

>> THAT IS VERY GOOD FOR YOU.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IS IT?

>> YOU NEED GOOD FAT TO LIVE.

STEAK TARTAR IS SIRLOIN MEAT GROUND, AND THEN WE HAVE A LITTLE EGG HERE.

NOW WE'LL SEE HOW TOUGH YOU ARE.

>> OH.

>> YEAH, BITE IN IT.

YOU'LL LIVE A HUNDRED YEARS.

GO, GO AHEAD.

>> THAT'S GOOD THANKS.

>> THAT'S HEALTHY.

>> THAT IS HEALTHY?

>> THIS IS VERY HEALTHY.

>> IT IS?

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THESE FOODS WOULD HAVE BEEN FOUND ON DINNER TABLES ALL OVER 19TH CENTURY CHICAGO.

MANY GERMANS SETTLED IN NORTH SIDE NEIGHBORHOODS LIKE OLD TOWN, BEFORE MIGRATING UP LINCOLN AVENUE TO LINCOLN PARK, LAKEVIEW AND LINCOLN SQUARE.

YOU CAN STILL FIND GERMAN FOOD IN THESE OLD ENCLAVES.

DINKEL'S IS ONE OF THE FEW REMAINING GERMAN BAKERIES IN CHICAGO.

WHEN IT OPENED IN 1922 THERE WERE SO MANY GERMAN BAKERS IN TOWN, THEY HAD THEIR OWN SINGING CLUB.

PAULINA MARKET IS AMONG THE LAST OF THE OLD-FASHIONED BUTCHER SHOPS.

>> HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE YOU SERVING?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY'VE BEEN MAKING THEIR OWN SAUSAGES HERE SINCE 1949.

BUT CHICAGO'S MOST FAMOUS GERMAN RESTAURANT IS DOWNTOWN.

♪♪ WHEN THE BERGHOFF ANNOUNCED IN 2005 THAT IT WAS CLOSING, THE CITY MOURNED THE DEATH OF ITS OLDEST RESTAURANT.

[SIZZLING] BUT A YEAR LATER IT WAS QUIETLY REOPENED BY A FOURTH GENERATION BERGHOFF.

SHE'S TRYING TO UPDATE SOME OF THE FAMILY'S TRADITIONAL GERMAN DISHES.

>> LESS GRAVIES, LIGHTER SAUCES, AND THEN IF YOU REALLY WANT TO YOU CAN HAVE A WIENER SCHNITZEL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CARLYN'S GREAT GRANDFATHER WAS A GERMAN IMMIGRANT NAMED HERMAN BERGHOFF, WHO STARTED A SMALL BREWERY IN FORT WAYNE, INDIANA.

HE CAME TO CHICAGO TO SELL HIS BEER AT THE 1893 WORLD'S FAIR, BUT THE AUTHORITIES WOULDN'T LET HIM, SO HE DEFIANTLY SET UP A STAND JUST OUTSIDE THE FAIR.

THEN HE TRIED TO GET A LICENSE TO DISTRIBUTE HIS BEER IN CHICAGO AND AGAIN HE WAS DENIED, SO HE OPENED THE BERGHOFF CAFÉ WHERE HE COULD SELL IT HIMSELF.

THE BERGHOFF SERVED WORKING-CLASS GERMAN IMMIGRANTS ALL OF THE FOODS THEY MISSED FROM HOME.

>> I THINK PEOPLE CAME HERE AND HAD SPECIFIC FOOD ITEMS THAT THEY HAD IN THEIR MIND AND HEART THAT REMINDED THEM OF SOME PART OF THEIR FAMILY HISTORY.

AND I THINK THEY SMELLED THAT STUFF COOKING AND THEY FELT AT HOME.

[BOOM] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT WORLD WAR ONE CHANGED EVERYTHING FOR CHICAGO'S GERMANS.

>> THERE WAS A TREMENDOUS ANTI-GERMAN BACKLASH.

THE FRANKFURTER BECAME THE HOT DOG.

THE HAMBURGER BECAME THE SALISBURY STEAK.

SAUERKRAUT BECAME LIBERTY CABBAGE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE WAR HURT HERMAN BERGHOFF'S BUSINESS.

>> HE HAD, UH, FIVE SONS, ALL FIVE SONS WERE IN THE AMERICAN MILITARY.

AND HE SAID, YOU KNOW, HE HUNG A SIGN IN THE FRONT WINDOW ALL MY-- WHERE THEY HAD THE STARS IN THE OLD DAYS WHEN YOUR KIDS WERE IN SERVICE, AND HE SAYS MY SONS ARE DOING THE SAME THING YOUR SONS ARE DOING, I CAME HERE THE SAME REASON YOU CAME HERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DURING AND AFTER THE TWO WORLD WARS, CHICAGO'S GERMANS WERE EAGER TO SHOW THEY WERE AMERICANS.

MANY MOVED TO THE SUBURBS AND ASSIMILATED, SOME EVEN DENIED THEIR GERMAN HERITAGE.

♪♪ BUT AFTER WORLD WAR TWO A NEW WAVE OF GERMAN IMMIGRANTS BREATHED NEW LIFE INTO GERMAN CHICAGO.

HARRY KEMPF CAME IN 1956.

BEFORE OPENING HIS RESTAURANT HE STARTED A GERMAN BAND THAT PLAYED GERMAN MUSIC ALL OVER THE CITY.

>> YOU KNOW, MY DAD, HE SAYS, WELL, YOU WANT TO BE A MUSICIAN OR A CHEF.

YOU CAN ONLY DO ONE.

YOU KNOW.

AND THEN I SAID I WANT TO PLAY MY INSTRUMENT.

THERE'S MORE GIRLS OUT THERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ULTIMATELY HE FOUND A WAY TO HAVE IT ALL, OPENING UP A RESTAURANT WHERE CHICAGOANS COULD CELEBRATE GERMAN MUSIC, AND GERMAN FOOD.

>> WAIT, WE'VE GOT TO DRINK!

♪♪ >> THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS LITTLE STOREFRONT RESTAURANT IN HUMBOLDT PARK IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF A PUERTO RICAN SANDWICH SENSATION.

THE JIBARITO, A SANDWICH MADE ON PLANTAINS INSTEAD OF BREAD, CAN BE FOUND ALL OVER AMERICA... >> EVEN IN NEW YORK!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ...THANKS TO THIS MAN, PETER FIGUEROA.

>> EVEN IN ORLANDO AND MIAMI.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE WORD JIBARITO IS SLANG FOR HILLBILLY.

WHICH IS EXACTLY HOW PETER DESCRIBES HIMSELF.

>> OH.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE'S FROM THE CENTER OF PUERTO RICO, WHERE BREAD WASN'T ALWAYS SO EASY TO COME BY, BUT THERE WERE PLANTAINS APLENTY.

>> OH, PLENTY OF PLANTAIN, BRO.

WE GROW PLANTAINS AND BANANAS LIKE CRAZY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) PETER DIDN'T EXACTLY INVENT THIS SANDWICH.

HE DUG THE RECIPE OUT OF A PUERTO RICAN NEWSPAPER.

>> ONCE THE PLANTAIN FLOATS THEN IT'S REALLY HAPPY, YOU KNOW, SO NOW WE'RE GONNA GET IT AND SMASH IT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) PETER PERFECTED THE RECIPE, NAMED IT THE JIBARITO, AND STARTED A SANDWICH CRAZE.

>> I GUESS I DID, AND I'M LOVING IT, BRO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE NOW SERVES HIS FAMOUS SANDWICH AT THREE RESTAURANTS IN CHICAGO.

>> ANY OTHER QUESTIONS?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T ASK PETER TO EAT A JIBARITO HIMSELF.

>> YOU WANT, YOU WANT ME TO EAT ONE OF THESE JIBARITOS?

OH, I'VE EATEN SO MANY.

FOR 12 YEARS I ATE JIBARITOS...

SO ALRIGHT.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) FEEDING CHICAGO'S SOUTH ASIANS CAN BE A COMPLICATED BUSINESS.

SOME ARE HINDUS.

>> MY MOM DID NOT ALLOW ME TO EAT MEAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) INCLUDING SOME FROM UPPER CASTES.

>> I HAD NEVER EATEN CHEESE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) OTHERS ARE PAKISTANI MUSLIMS WHO DON'T MIND PILING ON THE MEAT.

>> THIS IS FOOD FROM THE SOUTHERN REGION OF INDIA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT WHATEVER THEIR RELIGION.

>> NORTHERN INDIAN PUNJABI FOOD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND WHEREVER THEY COME FROM.

>> WE HAVE FOODS FROM GUJRAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY CAN FIND THE FOODS THEY LOVE ON A SINGLE STREET IN WEST ROGERS PARK.

>> EVERYTHING THAT YOU MISS FROM BACK HOME, YOU CAN FIND IT ON DEVON AVENUE.

[LAUGHING] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) SOUTH ASIANS STARTED COMING TO CHICAGO IN LARGE NUMBERS IN THE 1960S.

THEY WERE MOSTLY STUDENTS AND PROFESSIONALS.

ONCE THEY STARTED BRINGING OVER THEIR EXTENDED FAMILIES, THEY DISCOVERED AN AFFORDABLE, FAMILY-FRIENDLY NEIGHBORHOOD ALONG DEVON AVENUE ON CHICAGO'S FAR NORTH SIDE.

>> ONE GUY HAD A GROCERY STORE, ONE GUY HAD A CLOTHING STORE... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) SWETAL PATEL'S FAMILY OPENED AN INDIAN GROCERY STORE HERE BACK IN 1974.

AND A SLEW OF SOUTH ASIAN BUSINESSES SOON FOLLOWED.

>> THAT'S WHERE THIS CULTURAL MECCA OF DEVON AVENUE FORMED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY, SOUTH ASIANS TRAVEL TO DEVON FROM LITERALLY ALL OVER AMERICA, TO FIND FOODS THAT ARE HARD TO COME BY ON THIS SIDE OF THE GLOBE.

>> NOW WHAT IS THIS?

SOME OF THESE FOODS, I HAVE TO ADMIT, I'VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.

>> THIS IS GOD'S GIFT TO PEOPLE THAT HAVE DIABETES, IT'S CALLED AN INDIAN BITTER MELON.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BITTER MELON.

AND IT'S BITTER?

>> IT IS BITTER.

IT IS BITTER.

WE HAVE RIGHT HERE THIS THING CALLED A SNAKE GOURD.

THE GOURD INSIDE IS SOMEWHAT SNAKE GOURDY IF YOU WILL.

>> WHAT'S?

>> INDIAN EGGPLANT.

>> OH OKAY.

YOU SLICE IT DOWN.

>> JUST SLICE IT DOWN.

YOU JUST GET RID OF THIS GOURD HERE, CUT IT INTO SMALL PIECES AND FRY IT UP.

>> DO... DOSAKI?

>> DOSAKI, I'M SORRY, I HAVE NO IDEA.

>> NO IDEA!

WHY SO MANY DIFFERENT KINDS OF BEANS AND LENTILS?

>> PRIMARILY, YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THOSE THAT ARE VEGETARIANS THIS IS THEIR MAIN SOURCE OF PROTEIN.

THEN ON THE FLIP SIDE, ON THIS SIDE YOU GO AND GET YOUR DIFFERENT KINDS OF RICE FROM BROWN BASMATI TO JUST A REGULAR BASMATI.

>> LOOK AT THIS SELECTION OF SPICES!

MILDER... HOTTER.

YOU EAT IT THIS HOT?

>> I HAVE TO EAT IT THAT HOT.

>> YOU DO?

>> I HAVE TO.

>> WAIT A SECOND.

WAIT A SECOND.

$35.00 A BOX?

>> THIRTY-FIVE DOLLARS, THEY COME IN BY AIR.

>> WHY DO PEOPLE WANT THESE INDIAN MANGOS?

>> THE TASTE IS JUST THERE.

WHEN YOU OPEN AN INDIAN MANGO THE FRAGRANCE, THE AROMA IS JUST MIND BLOWING.

>> IT'S NOT LIKE ANY MANGO I'VE EVER HAD.

IT'S SO SMOOTH.

OKAY, WHAT IS THIS?

>> THIS IS A CRUNCHY MASALA DOSA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHILE CHICAGO'S SOUTH ASIAN COMMUNITY MAY HAVE DIVERSE TASTES, THE SELECTION OF RESTAURANTS HERE HASN'T ALWAYS BEEN SO ECLECTIC.

HISTORICALLY, ALMOST ALL OF THEM SERVED A KIND OF NORTH INDIAN CUISINE, CALLED MUGHALAI.

THE MUGHALS WERE A MUSLIM EMPIRE THAT RULED OVER INDIA STARTING IN THE 16TH CENTURY.

THEIR MOST FAMOUS CONTRIBUTION TO INDIA WAS THE TAJ MAHAL.

>> THEY PAID ATTENTION TO DETAIL, THEY HAD ARCHITECTURE.

THEY LIKED STRUCTURE, AND THAT'S WHAT YOU SEE HERE.

SOMETHING'S THAT'S LAYERED.

YOU'VE GOT THE RICE.

YOU'VE GOT A NICE BLEND OF COLOR.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS IS THE FOOD OF THE MUGHAL ROYALTY.

IT FEATURES RICH SAUCES AND COMPLEX SPICES, WITH PLENTY OF MEAT, COOKED IN A TANDOORI OVEN.

WHEN INDIAN-AMERICANS GO OUT FOR INDIAN FOOD, THIS IS OFTEN WHAT THEY TREAT THEMSELVES TO.

>> BECAUSE THIS THE FOOD THAT WOULD TAKE THEM HOURS TO MAKE AT HOME.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE TANDOORI OVENS... >> (KANTHA SHELKE) THE TANDOORI OVENS, THE SPICING, THE FLAVORINGS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT MORE RECENTLY THE MUGHAL REIGN OVER CHICAGO HAS FELT SOME COMPETITION.

>> YOU'LL HAVE A PLANTAIN CURRY HERE, A MIXED VEGETABLE CURRY HERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE NUMBER OF SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANTS HAS GROWN HERE IN THE LAST FEW YEARS.

VEGETARIANS FEEL RIGHT AT HOME IN SOUTH INDIAN RESTAURANTS.

AND MORE ADVENTUROUS EATERS SEEK IT OUT FOR ITS SPICINESS.

>> WHEN YOU CUT THIS OPEN... >> OHH.

>> POTATO FILLING THERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DEVON AVENUE ALSO HAS ITS SHARE OF PAKISTANI RESTAURANTS.

THE NATIVES OF THIS MAJORITY MUSLIM NATION OFTEN FAR MEAT DISHES.

THIS RESTAURANT, SABRI NEHARI, IS NAMED FOR A BEEF STEW THAT'S POPULAR IN PAKISTAN.

THE MEAT, OF COURSE, IS HALAL.

DEVON AVENUE CONTINUES TO BE A VIBRANT HUB OF SOUTH ASIAN FOODS AND BUSINESSES.

BUT MANY SOUTH ASIANS HAVE SETTLED IN SUBURBS LIKE NAPERVILLE, SCHAUMBURG, AND SKOKIE.

>> AND THEN WE HAVE FROZEN INDIAN CURRY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND SWETAL PATEL IS CATERING TO THEIR CHANGING EATING HABITS.

WOULD YOU FIND FROZEN FOOD LIKE THIS MUCH IN INDIA?

>> NOT MUCH AT ALL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HIS COMPANY MANUFACTURES THESE FROZEN MEALS IN INDIA, IMPORTS THEM TO SKOKIE, AND SELLS THEM AT THE 34 GROCERY STORES HIS FAMILY NOW OWN ACROSS AMERICA.

>> WHY IS IT POPULAR IN THIS COUNTRY?

>> CONVENIENCE.

IT TAKES 45-MINUTES, 50-MINUTES TO PREPARE AN INDIAN ENTRÉE.

THIS, YOU MICROWAVE IT, FIVE MINUTES, YOU'RE DONE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND WHAT COULD BE MORE AMERICAN, THAN A FROZEN DINNER?

♪♪ WE MIGHT CALL IT ITALIAN BEEF, BUT IT'S DEFINITELY NOT FROM ITALY.

>> IF YOU GO TO ITALY WITH AN ITALIAN BEEF THEY LAUGH.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN FACT, IT WAS INVENTED RIGHT HERE IN CHICAGO.

AND THE ONLY THING ITALIAN ABOUT THIS SANDWICH... >> A PURE BEEF SANDWICH... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) ...WERE THE PEOPLE WHO MADE IT.

>> ACTUALLY YOU CAN HOLD THIS UP TO THE LIGHT AND YOU CAN SEE RIGHT THROUGH IT ALMOST.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ITALIAN BEEF IS IN CHRIS PACELLI'S BLOOD.

>> EVERY MORNING I HAVE ONE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WELL, OKAY, FIGURATIVELY TOO.

>> FRESH GARLIC... >> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHRIS' GRANDFATHER SOLD ITALIAN BEEF.

>> THEN WE STIR UP THE SEASONING A LITTLE BIT.. >> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND CHRIS RUNS AL'S BEEF ON TAYLOR STREET, WHICH HIS DAD AND UNCLE AL OPENED IN 1938.

I'D LIKE MINE DIPPED WITH SWEET PEPPERS IF YOU GREW UP IN CHICAGO, YOU PROBABLY LIKE YOUR ITALIAN BEEF A CERTAIN WAY.

>> I'M GOING TO HAVE AN ITALIAN BEEF ALSO, SLIGHTLY DIPPED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR IS HOW MUCH JUICE YOU LIKE ON YOUR SANDWICH.

>> OH, THE WAY TO EAT IT IS WITH JUICE.

YOU DON'T EVER WANT TO EAT AN ITALIAN BEEF SANDWICH DRY.

YOU KNOW A LOT OF PEOPLE COME IN AND SAY OH, I WANT IT DRY.

I DON'T WANT TO GET IT ALL OVER ME.

YOU GOT TO LEARN HOW TO EAT IT.

>> THERE'S A SPECIAL WAY TO EAT IT?

>> OH, YEAH, IT'S THE ITALIAN STANCE.

>> THE ITALIAN STANCE?

>> RIGHT, YOU GOT TO-- SEE BECAUSE IT'S SO JUICY-- YOU'VE GOT TO LEAN BACK, PUT YOUR FOREARMS ON THE COUNTER AND YOU DIG INTO IT SO YOU DON'T GET THE-- SEE ALL THE JUICE WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT?

SO YOU DON'T GET IT ALL OVER YOU.

I'M WEARING WHITE!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CHRIS' GRANDFATHER WAS ONE OF ITALIAN BEEF'S EARLY PIONEERS.

>> WE'LL ADD THE RAW PRODUCT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) LIKE MANY OF THE ORIGINAL BEEF SALESMAN, HIS GRANDFATHER GOT HIS START AS A PEDDLER.

>> LIKE YOU WOULD SEE AT A BALLGAME, A GUY WITH A THING AROUND HIS NECK AND HE HAD SANDWICHES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AS THE STORY GOES, POOR ITALIAN IMMIGRANTS WOULD HIRE PEDDLERS LIKE CHRIS' GRANDFATHER TO CATER THEIR WEDDINGS.

>> YOU WOULD EAT IT AT THE BUFFET STYLE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE WEDDING PARTY COULDN'T AFFORD MUCH MEAT, SO THESE PEDDLERS HAD TO MAKE A LITTLE BEEF GO A LONG WAY-- INSPIRING A BRILLIANT IDEA.

>> WHAT IF I SLICED THIS REAL THIN, CHANGED THE TASTE, PUT SOME ITALIAN SPICES IN IT, YOU KNOW, YOUR OREGANO, YOUR GARLICS AND ALL THAT AND MAKE IT A TENDER SANDWICH, RIGHT?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND THE REST, AS THEY SAY, IS HISTORY.

IT'S A LITTLE ODD THAT CHICAGO'S FAMOUS BEEF SANDWICH WAS INVENTED BY ITALIANS.

BECAUSE YOUR TYPICAL ITALIAN IMMIGRANT WASN'T EATING MUCH MEAT AT ALL.

>> THIS IS WHAT MY MOTHER DID.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AT HER HOME IN NORRIDGE, MARGE PORCELLI AND HER DAUGHTER CHRIS ARE MAKING A FAVORITE MEAL OF MARGE'S IMMIGRANT PARENTS.

>> GOOD, DONE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) PASTA, NO SAUCE, BARELY EVEN ANY CHEESE, AND CERTAINLY NO MEAT.

>> IT'S PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI AND TOMATO, THAT'S IT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AH, HA.

>> THAT'S HOW WE GREW UP.

WE HAD ONE VEGETABLE WITH THE PASTA WHETHER IT'S ZUCCHINI, BROCCOLI, CAULIFLOWER; JUST ONE VEGETABLE.

PASTA WITH PEAS, ONE VEGETABLE.

IF YOU PUT THEM ALL TOGETHER AND MINGLE THEM ALL IN ONE DISH, WHAT ARE YOU GONNA MAKE THE NEXT NIGHT?

[LAUGHING] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN ITALY, MARGE'S PARENTS ATE THIS OUT OF NECESSITY.

>> THEY COULDN'T AFFORD A LOT OF MEAT, NO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEY WERE QUITE POOR.

AND SO WERE MOST ITALIAN IMMIGRANTS WHO CAME TO CHICAGO.

>> THEY EEKED OUT LIVINGS ON SMALL FARMS WHERE WHAT THEY ATE WAS WHAT THEY COULD DIG FROM THE GROUND.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HERE IN CHICAGO, ITALIANS TENDED TO STICK WITH THE VEGETABLE-HEAVY DIET THEY KNEW FROM HOME.

WHICH SEEMED WEIRD TO THE CITY'S NORTHERN EUROPEAN MAJORITY.

TO THEM, ITALIANS ATE UNUSUAL CONCOCTIONS THAT HAD TO BE TERRIBLE FOR THEIR HEALTH, LIKE VEGETABLES WITH OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC.

>> THEY LOOK AT ITALIAN DIETS AND THEY SAY, THERE'S NOT ENOUGH MEAT.

HOW CAN YOU POSSIBLY DO THE BACKBREAKING LABOR WE WANT YOU TO DO, IF YOU DON'T EAT MORE MEAT?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BECAUSE THE REST OF THE CITY ATE SO DIFFERENTLY, CHICAGO'S ITALIANS HAD TROUBLE FINDING THEIR FAVORITE INGREDIENTS.

SO ITALIANS STARTED SELLING THEIR OWN FOOD.

♪♪ MANY ITALIAN FOOD PURVEYORS BEGAN AS PEDDLERS SELLING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES ON THE STREET.

>> THAT'S TWO DOLLARS.

[SLURP] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND, OF COURSE CHICAGO'S NEIGHBORHOODS HAD PLENTY OF ITALIAN RESTAURANTS.

TUFANO'S VERNON PARK TAP HAS BEEN IN THE SAME SPOT NEAR TAYLOR STREET SINCE 1930.

BACK THEN, OWNERS THERESA AND JOSEPH DIBUONO DID THE COOKING NEXT DOOR AT THEIR HOUSE, THEN HANDED THE FOOD THROUGH THIS OLD WINDOW TO THE WAITERS.

♪♪ CHICAGO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANTS SERVED MOSTLY AN ITALIAN CLIENTELE AT FIRST.

BUT ALL OF THOSE OLD PREJUDICES AGAINST ITALIAN FOOD REALLY DISSOLVED DURING PROHIBITION.

WHILE THE VOLSTEAD ACT MADE MOST ALCOHOL ILLEGAL, IT DID MAKE AN EXCEPTION FOR WINE THAT WAS HOMEMADE FOR PERSONAL USE.

AND ITALIAN RESTAURANT OWNERS GRACIOUSLY SHARED THEIR HOMEMADE WINE WITH CUSTOMERS.

>> REALLY ADVENTUROUS CHICAGOANS COULD GO HAVE HOMEMADE RED WINE IN A COFFEE CUP ALONG WITH A PLATE OF SPAGHETTI AND MEATBALLS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) RESTAURANT OWNER AL CAPITANINI KNEW HOW TO GIVE HIS CUSTOMERS THE SENSE OF ADVENTURE AND ROMANTICISM THEY WERE LOOKING FOR.

>> MY DAD SAYS, "WHY NOT?"

CHECKERED RED TABLECLOTHS, AND A GLASS OF WINE, AND SPAGHETTI AND MEATBALL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE OPENED THE ITALIAN VILLAGE RESTAURANT DOWNTOWN IN 1927.

THE CAPITANINIS LEARNED HOW TO CATER TO THEIR AMERICAN CUSTOMERS' APPETITES WITH HEAVIER ITALIAN FARE.

>> HEAVY ON THE SAUCE.

HERE IN AMERICA THEY WISH, AL BONANZA, A LOT OF SAUCE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ONE HEARTY ITALIAN DISH WAS ACTUALLY BORN IN CHICAGO.

OR AT LEAST NAMED HERE.

>> CHICKEN VESUVIO ORIGINATED IN CHICAGO!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THERE'S MUCH DEBATE ABOUT WHO SERVED THE ORIGINAL CHICKEN VESUVIO.

ITALIAN VILLAGE IS ONE OF SEVERAL CHICAGO RESTAURANTS THAT LAY CLAIM TO IT.

BUT OF ALL OF THE FOODS THAT ITALIAN IMMIGRANTS CARRIED WITH THEM ACROSS THE ATLANTIC, NOTHING MADE THE LEAP TO THE AMERICAN MAINSTREAM QUITE LIKE PIZZA.

OF COURSE, IN ITALY IT DIDN'T LOOK ANYTHING LIKE THIS.

IN FACT, WHEN MARGE FIRST TRIED PIZZA AT A RESTAURANT, SHE WAS STUNNED.

>> I THOUGHT, "THIS IS PIZZA?"

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN PLACES LIKE ROME AND NAPLES PIZZA HAS A THIN CRUST AND IT'S LIGHTLY COVERED WITH TOMATOES, CHEESE AND OTHER TOPPINGS.

YOU CAN FIND THIS IN CHICAGO AT PLACES LIKE SPACCA NAPOLI ON THE NORTH SIDE.

>> THERE'S NO CHEESE OR WHATEVER THEY PUT TODAY; SAUSAGE AND MUSHROOMS AND ALL THAT.

NO, NO, NO.

>> THAT'S NOT AUTHENTIC, AS FAR AS YOU'RE CONCERNED.

>> NO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AMERICANS HAVE SMOTHERED IT IN TOMATO SAUCE, LOADED IT WITH CHEESE, ADDED EVERYTHING FROM PINEAPPLE TO BARBECUED CHICKEN-- WE'VE EVEN STUFFED IT.

>> AMERICANS LIKE TO OVERDO JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) OF COURSE HERE IN CHICAGO OUR MOST FAMOUS CONTRIBUTION TO THE WORLD OF PIZZA, IS DEEP DISH.

THE DEEP DISH PHENOMENON WAS BORN HERE AT UNO'S IN 1943, WHEN OWNER IKE SEWELL SET OUT TO GIVE CHICAGO SOMETHING NEW.

HIS IDEA?

WELL, HIS ORIGINAL IDEA WAS TO OPEN A MEXICAN RESTAURANT.

>> IKE SEWELL WAS FROM TEXAS.

AND HE REMEMBERED MEXICAN FOOD FROM HIS CHILDHOOD AND WANTED TO OPEN A PLACE LIKE THIS IN CHICAGO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SO SEWELL'S BUSINESS PARTNER, RICK RICARDO, ENLISTED THE HELP OF A MEXICAN BARTENDER TO GIVE THEM A TASTE OF AUTHENTIC MEXICAN FOOD.

>> AND IT WAS THE WORST MEXICAN MEAL IN THE HISTORY OF MEXICAN MEALS, AND RICARDO GOT SICK.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SEWELL AND RICARDO WENT BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD, AND SOON CAME UP WITH ANOTHER IDEA-- PIZZA.

BUT IT COULDN'T BE JUST ANY OLD PIZZA.

>> SEWELL, WHO WAS YOUR MACHO GUY, WANTED SOMETHING THAT WAS A MEAL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THEIR IDEA WAS ESSENTIALLY TO BUILD THE PIZZA UPSIDE-DOWN-- CHEESE, THEN TOPPINGS, THEN SAUCE-- ALL BUILT ON TOP OF A THICK, HEAVY CRUST.

THOUGH THERE ARE DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF THE STORY ABOUT HOW THEY CAME UP WITH THE IDEA.

>> I HEARD ONE STORY THAT THE REASON IT WAS DEEP DISH WAS 'CAUSE THEY HAD THESE PANS THAT THEY HAD TO FILL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IN FACT, NOT EVERYONE AGREES ABOUT WHO INVENTED DEEP DISH PIZZA.

SOME SAY THAT UNO'S BARTENDER RUDY MALNATI HAD A HAND IN IT.

HIS SON LOU LATER OPENED UP HIS OWN PIZZA PLACE.

BUT ONE THING'S FOR SURE: DEEP DISH PIZZA WAS THE PERFECT MATCH FOR CHICAGO.

IT WAS A BIG PIZZA THAT SEEMED TO FIT OUR CITY'S BRAWNY IMAGE.

>> IF YOU GREW UP ON DEEP DISH, CHANCES ARE YOU'RE NOT LETTING GO OF IT.

IT'S JUST PART OF A CITY IDENTITY, AND I WOULDN'T MESS WITH ANYONE WHO'S GOING TO TAKE A STAND BECAUSE IT'S KNIFE AND FORK FOOD.

[LAUGHING] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) COMING UP, MEXICAN AND POLISH FOOD AND THE CHICAGO HOT DOG.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) WHEN WORD GETS OUT THAT TERESA FRAGA IS MAKING HER FAMOUS ENCHILADAS, PEOPLE START LINING UP.

>> YOU HAVE TO KEEP LIKE, WATCHING THEM, TURNING THEM, SO THEY DON'T GET BURNED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT'S HER SON'S 41ST BIRTHDAY PARTY AT TERESA'S HOME IN PILSEN.

AND SHE'S WRAPPING ONE GIFT FOR HIM THAT MONEY JUST CAN'T BUY.

>> WHAT'S DIFFERENT ABOUT THESE ENCHILADAS IS THAT WE USE THE AUTHENTIC CHEESE THAT YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO USE: QUESO ANEJO ENCHILADO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ENCHILADA, LITERALLY MEANS "CHILIED".

TERESA MADE THIS GARLICKY GUAJILLO CHILI SAUCE THE NIGHT BEFORE.

>> EVERYBODY LIKES THEM WHEN THEY'RE TOASTED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SHE COOKS THE ENCHILADAS ON THIS MEXICAN GRIDDLE CALLED A COMAL.

>> IF I GET THE RIGHT KIND OF TORTILLA, IF I GET THE RIGHT KIND OF CHILI AND I GET THE RIGHT KIND OF FIRE, I'M HAPPY!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TERESA DIDN'T ALWAYS HAVE THESE LUXURIES.

SHE WAS BORN IN ZACATECAS, MEXICO, AND SHE GREW UP IN TEXAS, WHERE SHE AND HER FAMILY WERE FARM WORKERS.

>> WHEN WE IMMIGRATED TO THE UNITED STATES, I WAS SEVEN YEARS OLD.

AND WE WORKED IN THE FIELDS, WE WERE UNDOCUMENTED.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) OUT IN THE FIELDS THEY DIDN'T HAVE A BIG COMAL, OR THE TIME TO MAKE ENCHILADAS.

INSTEAD, THEY HAD TO STICK WITH FOODS THAT WERE FAST AND PORTABLE.

>> BEANS AND EGG TACO, POTATO AND EGG TACO.

IT WAS PRACTICAL.

YOU KNOW YOU DON'T HAVE A LUNCH HOUR-- WHEN YOU'RE POOR AND WORKING IN THE FIELDS.

YOU CAN RUN WITH YOUR TACO.

[LAUGHING] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) LIKE TERESA, MANY OF CHICAGO'S EARLY MEXICAN IMMIGRANTS STARTED OUT AS MIGRANT LABORERS.

THEY FLED THE MEXICAN REVOLUTION OF 1910, AND WORKED THEIR WAY ACROSS THE GREAT PLAINS HARVESTING SUGAR BEETS AND WORKING ON THE RAILROADS, BEFORE LANDING IN CHICAGO.

HERE, THEY FOUND NOT ONLY BETTER PAYING, STEADIER JOBS, BUT A PLACE WHERE THEY COULD PUT DOWN THEIR ROOTS.

AFTER YEARS OF MIGRATING, HERE IN CHICAGO TERESA BECAME A CITIZEN, AND WORKED HER WAY THROUGH COLLEGE AND EVENTUALLY GRADUATE SCHOOL.

TODAY, SHE'S A SCHOOL ADMINISTRATOR.

AND NOW SHE HAS THE TIME AND THE MONEY TO MAKE THE FOODS SHE LOVES.

>> WHAT ELSE COULD I GIVE MY 41-YEAR OLD SON FOR HIS BIRTHDAY, BUT ENCHILADAS, IS WHAT MAKES HIM HAPPY.

>> NOW, I KNOW WHY YOU'RE SO FAMOUS.

THAT'S AMAZING, OH MY GOSH.

I'M SORRY I GOT AHEAD OF YOU.

THERE'S A WHOLE LINE BACK THERE.

AS EARLY AS THE 1920S THERE WERE THREE MEXICAN COMMUNITIES IN CHICAGO: ON THE SOUTHEAST SIDE, IN BACK OF THE YARDS, AND ON THE NEAR WEST SIDE NEAR HULL HOUSE.

AT LEAST ONE NON-MEXICAN RECOGNIZED THE DEMAND FOR MEXICAN FOOD WAY BACK THEN.

A GERMAN IMMIGRANT NAMED HENRY STEINBARTH SOLD MEXICAN CHORIZO SAUSAGE ON THE SOUTHWEST SIDE.

HIS COMPANY GREW INTO THE MEXICAN FOOD GIANT LA PREFERIDA.

SOON, CHILE CON CARNE, OR AS WE NOW KNOW IT, CHILI POPPED UP AT CHILI JOINTS ALL OVER CHICAGO LIKE LINDY'S.

CHICAGOANS THOUGHT IT WAS THE QUINTESSENTIAL MEXICAN DISH.

>> CHILI CON CARNE WAS NEVER A MEXICAN DISH.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT PROBABLY ORIGINATED IN TEXAS.

TAMALES BECAME POPULAR HERE TOO... WELL, SORT OF.

A CHICAGO-STYLE TAMALE OR CORN ROLL TAMALE IS WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT PAPER INSTEAD OF A CORN HUSK, SO IT'S EASY TO BOIL.

♪♪ THE MOST POPULAR BRAND IS TOM TOM TAMALES, A SOUTHWEST SIDE COMPANY THAT WAS FOUNDED BY THREE GREEKS... WHO WERE ALL NAMED, YOU GUESSED IT, TOM.

>> OF COURSE, A MEXICAN TAMALE IS MUCH DIFFERENT THAN THAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AT SOUTH SIDE INSTITUTIONS LIKE THE RAMOVA GRILL, THEY SERVE SOMETHING CALLED A MOTHER-IN-LAW, WHICH IS A CHICAGO-STYLE TAMALE COVERED IN CHILI.

PUT THAT ON A BUN, AND YOU HAVE A MOTHER-IN-LAW SANDWICH.

>> WELL, IT'S ANOTHER FAD THAT IS NOT REAL MEXICAN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ACTUAL MEXICAN RESTAURANTS WEREN'T SO POPULAR WITH NON-MEXICANS UNTIL THE 1950S AND '60S, WHEN A SLEW OF NEW EATERIES CAME ON THE SCENE LIKE LA MARGARITA, NUEVO LEON, LOS COMALES, AND PEPE'S.

AND ALL OF THESE PLACES HAD ONE THING IN COMMON: THEY STARTED WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM ARTURO VELASQUEZ.

VELASQUEZ'S BUSINESS WAS ACTUALLY SELLING JUKEBOXES STOCKED WITH MEXICAN MUSIC.

BUT HE KNEW THAT THE MORE MEXICAN RESTAURANTS THERE WERE THE MORE MEXICAN JUKEBOXES HE COULD SELL.

>> IT WAS A TWO-WAY STREET.

I GOT THE JUKEBOXES, YOU GOT THE LOCATION.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ARTURO'S SON, ART, PLAYED A MORE DIRECT ROLE IN BRINGING MEXICAN FOOD TO THE MASSES.

NOW, CAN I TASTE ONE?

>> SURE >> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE HELPED INTRODUCE AMERICAN CONSUMERS TO AN ANCIENT MEXICAN STAPLE.

>> THE CORN TORTILLA IS OVER 6,000 YEARS OLD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT THE SHELF LIFE OF ANY GIVEN TORTILLA WAS MORE LIKE THREE DAYS-- TOO SHORT FOR SUPERMARKETS TO STOCK THEM.

>> TORTILLAS COULD ONLY BE SOLD FROZEN OR IN CANS, BELIEVE IT OR NOT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) SO, ART HIRED A CHEMIST WHO FIGURED OUT HOW TO PRESERVE THEM FOR MORE THAN A MONTH.

MORE IMPORTANTLY, ART MADE TORTILLAS OUT OF FLOUR.

CORN TORTILLAS WERE THE MEXICAN MAINSTAY-- THOUGH FLOUR WAS USED IN NORTHERN MEXICO.

BUT ART HAD A FEELING THAT FLOUR WOULD BE POPULAR WITH THE NON-MEXICAN OR ANGLO MARKET.

>> ANGLOS MOSTLY GREW UP, AND AS KIDS, HAVING HOT DOGS, HAVING HAMBURGERS, HAVING PIZZA, SO ALL OF THAT IS A FLOUR-BASED BUN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY, AZTECA TORTILLAS ARE IN GROCERY STORES ALL OVER AMERICA.

BUT THE FLOUR TORTILLA IS NOT THE ONLY ITEM THAT'S HELPED AMERICANS EMBRACE MEXICAN FOOD.

TODAY, SALSA HAS SURPASSED KETCHUP AS THE BIGGEST SELLING CONDIMENT IN AMERICA.

AND LIKE SO MANY OTHER CUISINES THAT HAVE BEEN AMERICANIZED, WE'VE TAKEN SIMPLE MEXICAN FOODS LIKE THE TACO... AND PILED ON OUR FAVORITE INGREDIENTS.

ALRIGHT SO THIS IS MORE OF AN AMERICAN TACO.

WE GOT TOMATOES AND LETTUCE AND CHEESE AND IT'S BIG.

NOW WHY?

>> WELL, I THINK THAT WE, NUMBER ONE, WE'RE VERY FAMILIAR WITH THE INGREDIENTS.

>> LIKE THE TOMATOES AND THE LETTUCE AND CHEESE.

>> SO, WE SAW IT IN A HAMBURGER, AND WHILE YOU'RE HAVING IT, IF YOU REALIZE IT'S A HAMBURGER THAT IS CONVERTED INTO A TACO, RIGHT?

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DUDLEY NIETO IS ONE OF CHICAGO'S MOST CRITICALLY ACCLAIMED CHEFS.

BUT WHEN HE'S NOT BUILDING LITTLE EDIBLE SCULPTURES AT HIS SWANKY EATERIES, YOU'LL OFTEN FIND HIM IN MEXICAN ENCLAVES LIKE PILSEN, DOING WHAT HE CALLS "RESEARCH".

HE LET ME TAG ALONG ON ONE OF HIS FACT-FINDING MISSIONS.

WE STARTED AT LOS COMALES, WHERE DUDLEY SHOWED ME WHAT A REAL MEXICAN TACO SHOULD LOOK LIKE.

>> YOU KNOW, SMALL PORTION, SMALL TORTILLA, YOU KNOW, FLAVORFUL, ONIONS, CILANTRO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT'S BARE-BONES FOR A REASON.

LIKE GORDITAS AND TORTAS, AND SO MANY OTHER POPULAR MEXICAN FOODS, TACOS ARE TYPICALLY STREET FOOD.

IT'S KIND OF LIKE THEIR FAST FOOD.

>> IT'S GOT TO BE SIMPLE.

NOTHING FANCY.

THIS IS SOMETHING THAT YES, YOU'RE GOING TO GET A LITTLE SLOPPY WITH THAT, YOU GRAB IT LIKE THIS, ON THE BACK.

AND THEN YOU TURN YOUR FACE LIKE A 45 DEGREES ANGLE.

>> OH, THERE'S A CORRECT ANGLE!

IN CHICAGO, THERE'S NOT MUCH STREET FOOD THAT YOU CAN ACTUALLY BUY OUT ON THE STREET.

HAVE I GOT THIS RIGHT HERE?

>> OH, YOU GOT IT RIGHT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT WE DO HAVE MAXWELL STREET, AND YOU WILL FIND MEXICAN PEDDLERS IN NEIGHBORHOODS LIKE PILSEN.

MANY ARE STOCKED WITH ELOTES, EARS OF CORN, USUALLY COVERED IN BUTTER, MAYONNAISE, PARMESAN CHEESE, AND RED PEPPER.

THERE'S A LOT OF BUTTER AND MAYONNAISE ON THIS.

NEXT, DUDLEY AND I WENT TO A PILSEN INSTITUTION: CARNITAS DON PEDRO.

SO HOW OFTEN DO YOU GO TO A RESTAURANT WHERE THERE ARE ONLY THREE THINGS ON THE MENU?

ALL THREE HAVE ONE THING IN COMMON: PORK.

IN ADDITION TO CHORIZO THEY HAVE CHICHARRONES, CRISPY PORK SKINS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY NOT ON MY LOW FAT DIET.

BUT WHAT DON PEDRO IS REALLY FAMOUS FOR... >> OH, CARNITAS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IS HIS CARNITAS.

>> SO, NOW WE'RE TALKING.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) CARNITAS IS PORK, FRIED IN PORK FAT.

DON PEDRO USES ONLY FEMALE PIGS, WHICH HE SWEARS TASTE THE BEST.

DUDLEY PACKS SOME IN A TORTILLA WITH HIS FAVORITE FIXIN'S.

IS THE PREPARATION HERE PARTICULARLY SPECIAL?

>> IT IS.

IT'S CRISPY FROM OUTSIDE.

IT'S VERY TENDER FROM INSIDE.

ALL OF THOSE FLAVORS COMBINED MAKE A DIFFERENCE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FROM DON PEDRO WE MOVED ON TO LA PROVIDENCIA, A GROCERY STORE WITH A KITCHEN IN BACK.

>> RIGHT IN FRONT OF US WE HAVE BIRRIA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BIRRIA?

BIRRIA IS A GOAT STEW.

IT'S POPULAR IN THE MEXICAN STATES OF JALISCO AND MICHOACAN.

CARNITAS, BY THE WAY, IS ALSO A SPECIALTY OF MICHOACAN.

>> AND ON THIS SIDE, WE HAVE SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL WHICH IS THE MENUDO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) MENUDO IS A BEEF TRIPE SOUP.

PROVIDENCIA ADDS HOMINY TO THEIR MENUDO, WHICH IS ESPECIALLY POPULAR IN THE MEXICAN STATE OF GUERRERO.

THESE REGIONAL SPECIALTIES ARE VERY FAMILIAR TO THE CUSTOMERS HERE.

NEARLY 80% OF MEXICAN IMMIGRANTS TO THE CHICAGO AREA COME FROM MEXICO'S CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN STATES LIKE GUERRERO, JALISCO, AND MICHOACÁN.

MORE RECENTLY, REGIONAL MEXICAN CUISINE HAS BEEN INTRODUCED TO NON-MEXICANS BY CHICAGO CHEFS LIKE RICK BAYLESS... AND DUDLEY NIETO.

LATELY, HE'S BEEN FOCUSING ON DISHES FROM THE YUCATAN PENINSULA.

OF COURSE, MEXICANS HAVE MADE CULINARY CONTRIBUTIONS TO CHICAGO THAT GO SO FAR BEYOND MEXICAN FOOD.

ROBERT PINA IS A MEXICAN-AMERICAN SUSHI CHEF AT A JAPANESE RESTAURANT OWNED BY KOREANS.

IT'S CALLED MIDORI ON CHICAGO'S NORTH SIDE.

WHEN ROBERT FIRST CAME HERE FROM MEXICO, HE DIDN'T EVEN KNOW WHAT SUSHI WAS.

>> I SAY, WHAT'S SUSHI, YOU KNOW, 'CAUSE I DIDN'T, AND HONESTLY, IN THE BEGINNING, I DIDN'T REALLY LIKE IT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) ROBERT EVENTUALLY DEVELOPED A TASTE FOR SUSHI... >> NOW I LOVE IT, YES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND HE MASTERED THE DIFFICULT ART OF MAKING IT.

HE EVEN CREATED HIS OWN SUSHI ROLL: THE ROBERT SPECIAL.

>> (ROBERT PINA) IT HAS SNOW CRAB MEAT WITH A SHRIMP TEMPURA IN A DYNAMITE SAUCE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE KEY INGREDIENT IN THE DYNAMITE SAUCE... IS MEXICAN CHILI DE ARBOL.

A KOREAN-OWNED JAPANESE RESTAURANT WITH A MEXICAN SUSHI CHEF.

IT'S A CONFLUENCE OF CULTURES THAT'S PURE CHICAGO... ♪♪ >> YOU KNOW, THE POLISH ARISTOCRACY WOULD NOT BE EATING POLISH PIEROGIES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DOBRA BIELINSKI IS A BOTH A POLISH PASTRY CHEF AND A EUROPEAN HISTORIAN.

>> THAT IS BASICALLY A PEASANT FOOD.

CABBAGE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AS A PASTRY CHEF, SHE LIKES TO THINK THAT PIEROGIES AND STUFFED CABBAGE ARE FOODS FIT FOR A KING.

>> IF IT WAS A POOR PEASANT, YOU'D HAVE 10% MEAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT AS A HISTORIAN, SHE KNOWS THAT'S NOT THE CASE.

>> MOST PEOPLE EMIGRATED FROM POLAND BASED ON ECONOMIC REASONS.

THEY WERE PEASANTS AND THAT'S THE FOOD THEY ATE AND THAT'S THE FOOD THEY BROUGHT TO AMERICA.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IT WAS POVERTY THAT DROVE POLES TO CHICAGO.

IN FACT, THE FIRST MAJOR WAVE OF POLISH IMMIGRATION WAS KNOWN AS ZA CHLEBEM, MEANING "FOR BREAD".

BUT CHICAGO TURNED OUT TO BE THE LAND OF PLENTY.

POLES BUILT A THRIVING COMMUNITY HERE...

KNOWN AS POLONIA.

IT HAD ITS OWN DOWNTOWN-- THE NORTH SIDE NEIGHBORHOOD AROUND MILWAUKEE AND DIVISION STREETS WAS COMMONLY CALLED "THE POLISH DOWNTOWN".

POLONIA EVEN HAD ITS OWN DIALECT.

>> WE USED TO SAY WE TALKED PO-CHICAGOSKU.

WE TALKED IN THE CHICAGO MANNER.

SO YOU WOULD SAY SOMETHING, LIKE YOU'D SAY I WANT TO MEET YOU ON THE CORNER AT GOLDBLATT'S.

AND YOU'D SAY [SPEAKING POLISH], WHICH YOU NEVER SAY IN POLAND, [SPEAKING POLISH].

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND CHICAGO'S POLES CREATED THEIR OWN CULINARY TRADITIONS TOO-- CELEBRATING FOODS THAT WEREN'T ALL THAT POPULAR IN POLAND.

LIKE CZARNINA, OR DUCK'S BLOOD SOUP, THESE SPECIALTIES WERE OFTEN OLD-FASHIONED POLISH FOODS THAT POLISH-AMERICANS MAINTAINED HERE IN CHICAGO.

>> FOR EXAMPLE, THE [POLISH NAME] ARE A VERY STRANGE THING.

IN POLAND NOBODY MAKES THAT, BUT THEY DID THAT ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS AGO.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND THEN, THERE'S THE SMORGASBORD.

IT'S A SWEDISH INVENTION, BUT FOR SOME REASON IT BECAME A FIXTURE AT CHICAGO'S POLISH RESTAURANTS.

>> NOBODY DOES BUFFETS IN POLAND.

THAT'S A SHOCKING THING TO SEE FOR POLES THAT COME OVER HERE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY, THESE TRADITIONS SURVIVE AT POLISH RESTAURANTS, DELIS, AND BAKERIES ACROSS THE CITY.

♪♪ CHICAGO'S NORTHWEST SIDE AND NORTHWEST SUBURBS IN PARTICULAR, MAINTAIN A STRONG POLISH FLAVOR, THANKS IN PART TO MORE RECENT WAVES OF IMMIGRANTS.

>> NOSTROVIA!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) LIKE DOBRA BIELINSKI, MANY FLED POLAND DURING THE COMMUNIST ERA.

THEY TENDED TO BE HIGHLY EDUCATED URBAN PROFESSIONALS IN POLAND.

>> THEIR PALATE IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT-- THEY'RE BRINGING A LITTLE BIT MORE FINE-DINING EXPERIENCE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) DOMINIQUE WILK IS ANOTHER OF THESE NEWER IMMIGRANTS.

AND THIS IS ONE OF HER FAVORITE DISHES: WILD PHEASANT IN A ROSEMARY AND SAGE CREAM SAUCE.

>> THIS IS NOT PIROGUES.

THIS IS NOT WHAT MOST PEOPLE THINK OF WHEN THEY THINK OF POLISH FOOD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS IS THE TYPE OF DISH THAT THE POLISH NOBLEMEN ATE.

WHERE'D YOU GET THIS PHEASANT FROM?

>> ACTUALLY, IT WAS HUNTED BY ME.

>> HUNTED BY YOU?

>> YES.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THERE WAS A LONG TRADITION OF HUNTING AMONG THE POLISH NOBILITY.

FOR CENTURIES THEY CONTROLLED THE LAND, AND THE RIGHT TO HUNT ON IT.

OF COURSE, IN THE OLD DAYS, THE MEN IN DOMINIQUE'S FAMILY DID ALL THE HUNTING, WHILE THE WOMEN COOKED.

ARE YOU THE FIRST WOMAN TO CROSS OVER TO DO THE HUNTING?

>> I BELIEVE SO.

I THINK TIMES CHANGE A LITTLE BIT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) IF THIS DISH LOOKS MORE LIKE SOMETHING YOU'D SEE AT A FANCY FRENCH RESTAURANT, THAT'S NO ACCIDENT.

>> YOU KNOW, A LOT OF THE ARISTOCRATS WOULD TRAVEL AND SPEND NUMEROUS MONTHS IN FRANCE AND THEY'D SEE ALL WHAT THE FRENCH CHEFS WERE DOING AND THEY EXPECTED THE SAME TYPE OF FOOD TO BE SERVED AT THEIR DINNER TABLE.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT ONE GROUP OF POLES TENDED TO BE A LITTLE MORE INDEPENDENT.

♪♪ THE POLISH HIGHLANDERS COME FROM THE TATRA MOUNTAINS ALONG POLAND'S BORDER WITH SLOVAKIA.

THEY HAVE THEIR OWN MUSIC AND DANCE, AND A DIALECT THAT MOST OTHER POLES HAVE TROUBLE UNDERSTANDING.

AND OF COURSE THEY HAVE THEIR OWN CUISINE, WHICH YOU CAN SAMPLE AT THE POLISH HIGHLANDERS HALL.

>> GOOD EVENING CHICAGO-LAND VIEWERS AND WELCOME TO THE POLISH HIGHLANDERS.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE DISHES HERE TEND TO BE ON THE HEARTY SIDE-- THE KIND OF FOOD YOU MIGHT EXPECT FROM MOUNTAIN-DWELLING PEOPLE.

>> WE PLAY HARD AND WE EAT HARD.

THIS IS A CUTLET WHICH IS LIKE A CHOPPED STEAK WITH PLENTY OF MUSHROOMS FOR EMBELLISHMENT.

THIS IS A [POLISH WORD] WHICH IS A SAUERKRAUT SOUP, AND IT CONSISTS OF BOILED POTATOES AND SPARE RIBS.

THIS IS THE FAMOUS BRIGAND'S PLATE, AND IT'S A GOULASH TYPE PLATE, AND HAS MEAT ON THE INSIDE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE POLISH HIGHLANDERS HALL IS LOCATED IN THE OLD HEART OF THE HIGHLANDERS COMMUNITY ON THE SOUTHWEST SIDE.

THE HIGHLANDERS FIRST SETTLED HERE TO BE NEAR THE STOCKYARDS WHERE MANY OF THEM WORKED.

FRANK BOBAK WAS ONE OF THEM-- HE WENT ON TO START A LEGENDARY SAUSAGE BUSINESS.

>> HE WORKED IN THE STOCKYARDS AS A BUTCHER AND AT NIGHT, AS A HOBBY, HE WAS MAKING SAUSAGE.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) HE ACTUALLY STARTED MIXING THE SAUSAGE IN STAN'S BABY POOL.

TODAY, STAN IS MORE FIGURATIVELY SWIMMING IN SAUSAGE.

HIS COMPANY MAKES 88 MILES OF SAUSAGE EVERY WEEK, FOR DISTRIBUTION ALL OVER THE COUNTRY.

THE POLISH SAUSAGE HAS BECOME ONE OF CHICAGO'S MOST FAMOUS EXPORTS.

BUT TO TALK ABOUT THE POLISH SAUSAGE, MIGHT BE A BIT MISLEADING.

>> THESE ARE VEAL FRANKFURTERS OVER HERE.

THESE ARE [POLISH NAME], WHICH ARE DELI WIENERS.

SMOKED POLISH SAUSAGE, OUR ORIGINAL SMOKED POLISH SAUSAGE, KIELBASA [POLISH NAME].

LITTLE SMOKIES.

MORE MILD IN FLAVOR, LESS GARLIC, LESS SMOKE, MORE SNACKY VARIETY.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THE MOST WELL-KNOWN POLISH SAUSAGE IS THE STANDARD KIELBASA, WHICH IS A FANCY POLISH WORD THAT MEANS, WELL... SAUSAGE.

>> IT'S PORK AND VERY GARLICKY.

LOTS OF GARLIC.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FEW MEN DID AS MUCH TO PUT CHICAGO'S POLISH SAUSAGES ON THE MAP AS JIM STEFANOVIC.

BUT HE WASN'T POLISH AT ALL.

JIM WAS A MACEDONIAN IMMIGRANT, WHO OWNED A HOT DOG STAND ON MAXWELL STREET, AND HE DECIDED TO PUT HIS OWN SPIN ON THE KIELBASA.

HE MADE IT A BIT SPICIER, AND THEN PUT IT ON A BUN LIKE A HOT DOG, CREATING THE FAMOUS MAXWELL STREET POLISH.

>> ALL IT IS, IS THE POLISH IN A BUN WITH GRIDDLED ONIONS.

THEY ARE ABSOLUTELY PHENOMENAL.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THESE DAYS YOU'LL SEE SIGNS FOR MAXWELL STREET POLISHES ALL OVER THE CITY.

BUT THE ORIGINAL IS STILL HERE AT JIM'S.

THE STORE'S OTHER CLAIM TO FAME: THE PORK CHOP SANDWICH.

BUT AS MUCH AS CHICAGO LOVES ITS POLISH SAUSAGES, NO ENCASED MEAT HAS MADE A BIGGER IMPACT ON OUR CITY THAN THIS GERMAN SAUSAGE.

BACK IN EUROPE THEY CALLED IT THE FRANKFURTER OR THE WIENER.

BUT HERE IN AMERICA PEOPLE JOKE THAT YOU MIGHT FIND ANYTHING IN ONE OF THESE SAUSAGES, INCLUDING THE FAMILY PET, SO WE CALLED IT, A HOT DOG.

>> THANK YOU.

>> IT WAS IN A MEAT MARKET ON CHICAGO'S NORTH SIDE-- PROBABLY ONE THAT DIDN'T LOOK TOO DIFFERENT FROM THIS ONE-- THAT A GERMAN IMMIGRANT NAMED OSCAR MEYER STARTED SELLING SAUSAGES.

THAT WAS IN 1883.

WITHIN A FEW DECADES, HIS NAME WAS WORLD FAMOUS.

♪ OH, I'D LOVE TO BE ♪ ♪ AN OSCAR MEYER WIENER... ♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) AS MUCH AS THE COMPANY WAS KNOWN FOR ITS HOT DOGS, IT EQUALLY FAMOUS FOR ITS INNOVATIVE MARKETING.

>> SAY, WHATCHA MAKIN'?

SANDWICHES.

REAL HE-MAN SANDWICHES >> (GEOFFREY BAER) PERHAPS ITS MOST MEMORABLE CAMPAIGN WAS LAUNCHED IN 1936... [HORN BEEPING] ...WHEN OSCAR MEYER'S NEPHEW CARL CREATED THE WEINERMOBILE.

>> LOOK... LITTLE OSCAR!

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) FOR FIVE DECADES THE GIANT HOT DOG ON WHEELS WAS PILOTED ACROSS THE COUNTRY BY LITTLE OSCAR.

♪ LITTLE OSCAR.

♪ ♪ THE WORLD'S SMALLEST CHEF.

♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY, THERE ARE SIX WEINERMOBILES, DRIVEN BY "HOT DOGGERS", RECENT COLLEGE GRADS WHO SPEND A YEAR TRAVELING THE COUNTRY IN A 27 FOOT LONG HOT DOG.

>> WOULD YOU GUYS LIKE A WEINER WHISTLE?

[CROWD CHEERS] >> (GEOFFREY BAER) AND OF COURSE THEY'RE STILL HANDING OUT THAT OTHER OSCAR MEYER ICON: THE WEINER WHISTLE.

[WHISTLE BLOWING] >> OSCAR MEYER MAY GET THE FAME AND GLORY ON THE NATIONAL STAGE.

BUT HERE IN CHICAGO OUR HOMETOWN FAVORITE HOTDOG IS VIENNA BEEF.

THE COMPANY GOT ITS START AT CHICAGO'S 1893 WORLD'S FAIR, WHERE A COUPLE OF JEWISH IMMIGRANTS FROM AUSTRIA-HUNGARY UNVEILED A SPECIAL SAUSAGE RECIPE.

>> THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN ALL-BEEF.

BECAUSE THE PEOPLE WHO RAN VIENNA WERE, OF COURSE, JEWS AND JEWS DON'T EAT PORK.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY THE RECIPE IS ESSENTIALLY THE SAME.

VIENNA MAKES ITS DOGS AT THIS STATE-OF-THE-ART FACILITY ON THE NORTH SIDE.

THEY START BY TRIMMING BRISKETS.

THE FATTY PART OF THE BRISKET GOES IN THE HOT DOG, BUT IT'S MIXED WITH LEAN BULL MEAT, SO IT ALL BALANCES OUT.

BOTH ARE GROUND UP... THEN THEY'RE MIXED WITH A SECRET BLEND OF SPICES... AT THAT POINT, THE HOT DOG'S A KIND OF PASTE, WHICH GETS SHOT OUT OF THIS MACHINE AND INTO A CASING.

THESE SKINLESS DOGS ARE TEMPORARILY ENCASED IN BLUE PLASTIC.

OTHERS ARE ENCASED IN NATURAL CASINGS.

THAT'S A POLITE WORD FOR SHEEP INTESTINES.

AND FINALLY, THEY'RE COOKED IN THE SMOKEHOUSE.

VIENNA BEEF MAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR MAKING THE HOT DOG ITSELF DELICIOUS.

BUT IT'S ALL OF THOSE TOPPINGS THAT MAKE THE CHICAGO HOT DOG UNIQUE.

THIS WAS THE CONTRIBUTION OF THE CITY'S PEDDLERS.

AFTER WORLD WAR ONE, THEY STARTED SELLING HOT DOGS IN CHICAGO'S IMMIGRANT NEIGHBORHOODS.

TO MAKE THE GERMAN SAUSAGE A BIT MORE FAMILIAR TO THE LOCALS, THEY ADDED THE DIFFERENT VEGETABLES THAT EACH ETHNIC GROUP KNEW AND LOVED.

>> WELL THE SAUSAGE IS GERMAN-JEWISH AND IT HAS RELISH, WHICH IS PROBABLY MEDITERRANEAN, THE PICKLES ARE GERMAN, THE TOMATO, MEDITERRANEAN, THE HOT PEPPER, WHICH YOU FIND IN ITALIAN PLACES, ALSO GREEK, AND I LIKE TO THINK THAT IT MIGHT BE MEXICAN.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) BUT NEEDLESS TO SAY THERE'S ONE TABOO INGREDIENT THAT MUST NEVER APPEAR ON A TRUE CHICAGO HOT DOG.

>> KETCHUP HAS A FLAVOR THAT'S ACIDIC, AND IT GOES AGAINST THE FLAVOR OF THE MEAT.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) THIS GARDEN ON A BUN AS IT'S BEEN CALLED REALLY TOOK OFF DURING THE DEPRESSION.

WHEN MONEY WAS TIGHT, CHICAGOANS REALIZED THEY COULD GET THEIR MEAT, BREAD, AND VEGGIES ALL FOR ABOUT FIVE CENTS, AND VIENNA BEEF HELPED UNEMPLOYED ENTREPRENEURS CASH IN ON THE CHICAGO HOT DOG CRAZE BY BUILDING THEM BARE BONES HOT DOG STANDS.

>> THE HOT DOG STANDS IN THE EARLY '30S WERE SHANTIES, AND THEY REALLY WERE PIECES OF WOOD NAILED TOGETHER AND SOMEBODY HAD A GREAT BIG BUCKET THAT HE BOILED WATER IN AND HE WOULD TAKE HIS BUNS AND HE'D PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BOILING WATER.

♪♪ >> (GEOFFREY BAER) TODAY, THERE ARE ABOUT 1,800 HOT DOG STANDS IN CHICAGO, MORE LOCATIONS THAN MCDONALD'S, BURGER KING'S, AND WENDY'S COMBINED.

>> THE QUICKEST WAY TO START AN ARGUMENT AMONG CHICAGOANS IS TO ASK WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE HOT DOG STAND?

AND THEY ALL ARGUE.

IT'S THE ONE I GREW UP WITH.

OR THE ONE I GREW UP WITH, WHICH HAS BEEN SOLD, AND NOW IT'S NOT ANY GOOD.

>> (GEOFFREY BAER) YOU'LL FIND THE SAME CHICAGO HOTDOG ON THE NORTH SIDE, THE SOUTH SIDE, THE WEST SIDE AND IN THE SUBURBS.

ITS INGREDIENTS ARE GERMAN, JEWISH, ITALIAN AND GREEK.

WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT IT, THE CHICAGO HOT DOG IS MORE THAN JUST A SANDWICH.

IT'S A METAPHOR FOR OUR CITY.

♪♪ PEOPLE HAVE COME TO CHICAGO FROM LITERALLY EVERY CORNER OF THE EARTH.

ALL OF THEM, CONTRIBUTING THEIR OWN INGREDIENTS.

AND THEY'VE BLENDED TOGETHER HERE, TO GIVE OUR CITY A FLAVOR LIKE NONE OTHER.