Sebak: BREAKFAST.

EVERYBODY IS AN EXPERT ABOUT BREAKFAST.

I WAKE UP HUNGRY.

I WANT A BREAKFAST.

YEAH, THAT STARTS THE DAY RIGHT THERE.

YOU DON'T EAT BREAKFAST -- OH, MAN.

Man: THE HUNGRIEST YOU EVER ARE IS IN THE MORNING.

IT'S THE ENERGY THAT GETS YOU STARTED FOR THE DAY.

YOU GOT TO GO BIG WITH THESE "BREAKFASTSES," RIGHT?

Tom: AND PEOPLE ARE IN GOOD MOODS IN THE MORNING.

THEY HAVEN'T HAD -- YET HAD TIME TO BE IN A BAD MOOD YET.

BREAKFAST IS THE EXCUSE TO SIT AND HAVE TIME TOGETHER.

I'M A BREAKFAST PERSON.

I LOVE BREAKFAST.

TO ME, I THINK IT'S AN IMPORTANT MEAL.

IF I DON'T EAT IT, I'M VERY GRUMPY.

I GOT TO HAVE BREAKFAST.

THAT'S A MUST.

I'M A BREAKFAST GIRL, SO... IT'S THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY.

Sebak: AND, YOU KNOW, GOING OUT FOR BREAKFAST CAN BE A GREAT TREAT.

WHENEVER I NEED FOOD IN THE MORNING, THIS IS WHERE I COME.

SHE'S THE BREAKFAST QUEEN.

IT'S MY -- BREAKFAST IS MY FAVORITE MEAL.

BREAKFAST -- THE SKY'S THE LIMIT.

IF IT'S -- IF IT'S PANCAKES, IT'S THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL.

Sandy: AND I PREFER A HOT BREAKFAST OVER, YOU KNOW, JUST A LITTLE BOWL OF CEREAL.

THE CAMARADERIE, THE QUALITY OF THE FOOD, THE SIZE OF THE SERVINGS... I LOVE EGGS.

I LOVE PANCAKES.

I LOVE BACON.

...ALL OF THOSE THINGS ARE THE KIND OF THINGS I LOOK FOR IN A BREAKFAST JOINT.

I THINK A LOT OF PLACES HAI A BREAKFAST MANIA.

IT MAKES YOU HAPPY WHEN YOU EAT IT.

ANYTHING YOU WANT TO STUFF INTO A COUPLE OF EGGS, YOU CAN PRETTY MUCH STUFF INTO A COUPLE OF EGGS.

Sebak: SO WE'VE PUT TOGETHER A PROGRAM ABOUT SOME INTERESTING PLACES TO GET A MEMORABLE MORNING MEAL.

WE CALL THIS "BREAKFAST SPECIAL."

AND YOU KNOW WE COULDN'T GET TO ALL THE GREAT PLACES.

THESE ARE JUST A FEW.

BUT THEY'RE GOOD.

Woman: IT'S GOOD COMFORT FOOD, ISN'T IT?

BREAKFAST IS COMFORT FOOD.

Gerald: YOU APPROACH IT WITH A FRESH, OPEN MIND, AND THEN WHEN IT'S OVER, NOW YOU'VE HAD FOOD, COMMUNITY, AND THE WHOLE DAY IS BEGINNING.

IT'S PERFECT.

"BREAKFAST SPECIAL" WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY THE CORPORATION FOR PUBLIC BROADCASTING AND BY CONTRIBUTIONS TO YOUR PBS STATION FROM VIEWERS LIKE YOU.

THANK YOU.

LIKE, A REGULAR PANCAKE IS JUST SO HEAVY.

AND, YOU KNOW, THE SYRUP GETS IN THERE, AND IT WEIGHS IT DOWN EVEN MORE.

AFTER A WHILE, YOU JUST KNOW WHEN TO FLIP THEM, BUT YOU SEE HOW THEY'RE ALL BUBBLING?

WELL, I GUESS WHEN WE START TAPPING IS PRETTY MUCH UP TO MY GRANDMOTHER AND MY UNCLE.

THIS IS NOT LIKE THAT AT ALL.

Sebak: HMM.

LET'S START HERE.

LET'S SAY YOU'RE IN RURAL NEW YORK STATE, SEVERAL MILES NORTH OF THE LITTLE TOWN OF ANGELICA.

YOU'RE HEADING FOR A PANCAKE PLACE CALLED CARTWRIGHT'S MAPLE TREE INN.

Virginia: YOU'RE IN ALLEGANY COUNTY.

AND WE'RE ON COUNTY ROAD 15A, BUT THE GPS CALLS IT FINK HOLLOW.

Sebak: THIS PLACE IS OPEN ONLY TWO MONTHS EVERY YEAR.

PEOPLE STAND IN A LONG, COLD LINE JUST TO GET IN.

I GENERALLY GET HERE AT LEAST FIVE TIMES A YEAR, I TRY.

IT WAS WORTH WAITING OUT IN THE COLD.

Sebak: WHAT DID YOU GUYS COME FOR TODAY?

PANCAKES.

AND SAUSAGE.

IT'S PRETTY SPECTACULAR TO WATCH THEM -- THE SPEED OF THE PANCAKE MAKER, THE PANCAKE FLIPPER.

IT'S -- IT'S RAPID FIRE.

Sebak: NOWADAYS, RHONDA CARTWRIGHT AMIDON IS USUALLY THE PANCAKE MAKER, A ROLE SHE INHERITED FROM HER MOTHER, VIRGINIA CARTWRIGHT, WHO HAS OTHER DUTIES NOW.

Virginia: WELL, I DO MOST ANYTHING.

I CAN CLEAR TABLE, BUT I CAN'T RUN THE GRILL ANYMORE.

I'VE GOT A BAD SHOULDER.

Rhonda: SHE'S IN CHARGE OF EVERYTHING.

[ LAUGHS ] SHE'S OWNER AND OPERATOR IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD.

Woman: MRS.

CARTWRIGHT'S ALWAYS BEEN VERY HOSPITABLE.

IT'S LIKE COMING TO HER HOME.

SHE STARTED COOKING THE PANCAKES WHEN MY DAD OPENED THIS PLACE UP, AND SHE'D COME DOWN HERE IN THE MORNING AND BAKE PIES AND DO THE PANCAKES AND THEN, LATER, MAKE SUGAR AND CREAM AND PACKAGE UP THE SYRUP.

THERE WASN'T ANYTHING SHE DIDN'T DO.

AND THEN SHE HAD SIX KIDS, TOO.

WE'VE BEEN COMING HERE FOR PROBABLY THE LAST 15, 20 YEARS.

MY FATHER USED TO BRING US A LONG TIME AGO.

THE ATTRACTION ARE THESE AMAZING BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES AND THE REAL MAPLE SYRUP.

Man: I'VE BEEN COMING HERE SINCE '63.

MY PARENTS KNEW MR.

AND MRS.

CARTWRIGHT.

Virginia: IT WAS ALL MY HUSBAND'S IDEA.

HE WANTED TO BE ABLE TO SELL OUR SYRUP LOCALLY INSTEAD OF SENDING IN ALL THE BARRELS TO VERMONT.

SO HE THOUGHT IF THEY COULD GET A TASTE OF OUR SYRUP WITH A FEW PANCAKES THAT THEY WOULD BUY OUR SYRUP.

BUT IT TURNED OUT THAT ITS MORE PANCAKES SOLD THAN SYRUP SO, WE ORIGINALLY STARTED WITH THE COUNTER AND THE TWO BOOTHS, AND THEN, EVERY SINGLE YEAR, I THINK, WE'VE ADDED ON.

Virginia: AND HE KEPT BUILDING ON AND BUILDING ON, AND FINALLY, WHEN HE BUILT THE WEST WING ON, I SAID, "NO MORE."

Rhonda: WE GET SOME PEOPLE BECAUSE WE OFFER UNLIMITED PANCAKES AND PURE MAPLE SYRUP.

THERE'S SOME PEOPLE THAT WILL ONLY EAT 3, AND THEN THERE'S SOME PEOPLE THAT WILL EAT 30.

I THINK MY RECORD'S ABOUT 14 PANCAKES.

ONCE, I'VE EATEN 4 PANCAKES AND 2 1/2 SAUSAGES.

WELL, WE JUST STARTED.

THIS IS OUR THIRD ORDER.

THIRD ORDER, YEAH.

I'VE HAD TWO ORDERS ALREADY.

THE HIGHEST AMOUNT I HAVE EATEN OF PANCAKES IS ABOUT FIVE PANCAKES.

SIX SOMETIMES.

IF I EAT THEM, I EAT TWO.

BUT WE WATCH RHONDA, THE MASTER PANCAKE LADY.

Virginia: YES, THE COUNTER'S THE PLACE TO SIT.

AND THE COUNTER'S WHERE YOU HEAR ALL THE FAMILY GOSSIP.

[ LAUGHS ] WE DO GET PEOPLE THAT COME IN HERE AND ASK US FOR THE LUNCH OR DINNER MENU.

AND WE'RE JUST LIKE, "NO, WE SERVE PANCAKES ALL DAY LONG."

AND WE'RE JUST AS BUSY AT NIGHT AS WE ARE IN THE MORNING.

CAN YOU SAY "PANCAKES"?

PANCAKES.

"PANCAKES."

NEED ANOTHER LITTLE SCOOP OF FLOUR.

Rhonda: AND WE'VE ALWAYS STAYED WITH THE BUCKWHEAT.

WE FIGURE, IF IT WORKS, GO WITH IT.

THEY'RE NOT AS SWEET, BUT YOU CAN JUST EAT TONS OF THESE THINGS.

THERE'S A UNIQUE BLEND OF LIGHT BUCKWHEAT, DARK BUCKWHEAT, WHOLE-WHEAT FLOUR IN IT, AND IT'S JUST A UNIQUE RECIPE THAT NOBODY ELSE HAS.

Man: I THINK IT'S A LITTLE MORE GRAINY THAN, SAY, A BUTTERMILK PANCAKE.

NUTTY -- IT'S GOT A NUTTY FLAVOR.

IF YOU HAD JUST PLAIN BUCKWHEAT, IT'S BITTER.

YOU'LL NEVER GET THESE ANYWHERE ELSE.

ALSO THE THING THAT'S NICE IS THEIR SAUSAGE.

I THINK THE SAUSAGE IS LOCALLY PRODUCED AROUND HERE.

AND IT IS -- IT IS EXCELLENT.

WE RUN FROM ABOUT THE MIDDLE OF FEBRUARY TO THE MIDDLE OF APRIL.

WE TRY TO DO IT DURING THE MAPLE-SYRUP SEASON.

Woman: SEVEN, EIGHT WEEKS THEY'RE OPEN.

THAT'S IT.

THAT'S IT.

ALL THIS IS ONLY FOR THAT.

THAT'S PART OF THE CHARM OF THE WHOLE THING.

BEING WITH JUST A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.

IF THEY WERE OPEN YEAR-ROUND, I DON'T THINK IT WOULD BE AS BIG A HIT.

Rhonda: BUT IT'S ABOUT NINE WEEKS.

AND IT'S NINE INTENSE WEEKS.

[ LAUGHS ] IT'S DEPENDENT ON THE MAPLE PRODUCTION.

I THINK THERE'S SOME KIND OF -- THERE'S SOMETHING MAGIC HERE IN THE TREES, SURE.

Sebak: THE MAGIC IN THE TREES LETS THE CARTWRIGHTS MAKE THE MAPLE SYRUP DOWNSTAIRS, BELOW THE PANCAKE ROOMS.

BUT IN EARLY MARCH OF 2010, THE SYRUP SEASON HADN'T YET STARTED.

VIRGINIA'S GRANDSON JASON CARTWRIGHT WAS TAPPING TREES, GETTING READY TO START COLLECTING SAP, USING A MODERN SYSTEM OF PLASTIC TUBING IN THE WOODS RIGHT BEHIND THE RESTAURANT.

Jason: WE JUST ACTUALLY PUT THIS TUBING UP THIS YEAR, ALMOST LIKE A SPIDER WEB OF TUBING THROUGH THE WOODS, WHERE IT ALL RUNS DOWN TO A TANK AT THE EDGE OF THE WOODS.

AT THAT TANK, THERE IS A VACUUM PUMP AND A RELEASER, AND THERE IS ANYWHERE BETWEEN 20 AND 26 INCHES OF VACUUM ACTUALLY SUCKING THE SAP OUT OF THE TREE.

SAP IS 2% SUGAR, 98% WATER.

SYRUP IS 86%.

SO IT'S ON A RATIO OF 40 TO 1.

SO IF WE TAKE 40 GALLONS OF SAP, BOIL IT TILL THERE'S ONE GALLON LEFT, THAT ONE GALLON LEFT IS SYRUP.

THE SEASON IS UNUSUALLY LATE THIS YEAR.

WE HAVEN'T ACTUALLY MADE ANY SYRUP YET.

SEEMS LIKE IT'S GONNA START WARMING UP HERE PRETTY QUICK.

WHEN IT DOES, THIS IS THE TRUCK WE'LL USE TO GATHER IT.

THIS IS OUR EVAPORATOR HERE.

WE PUT THE WOOD INTO HERE.

SAP INTO THE BACK, SYRUP COMES OUT THE FRONT, AND THEN UPSTAIRS ONTO THE PANCAKES.

Rhonda: AND PURE MAPLE SYRUP CONTAINS MAGNESIUM AND ZINC, WHICH ARE EXTREMELY HEALTHY FOR YOU, BUT I REALLY DON'T THINK PEOPLE COME TO EAT OUR PANCAKES FOR HEALTH REASONS.

I THINK THEY COME TO EAT THEM BECAUSE THEY TASTE GOOD.

Virginia: YOU TAKE A LOT OF PRIDE IN IT, BECAUSE PEOPLE COME FROM FAR AWAY, AND THEY KEEP COMING BACK, YOU KNOW.

WE'VE GOT TO BE DOING SOMETHING TO PLEASE THEM.

Rhonda: I'M JUST VERY PROUD OF WHAT MY PARENTS BUILT.

AND I'M PROUD OF WHAT THEY INSTILLED IN US KIDS.

AND I'M JUST HAPPY THAT WE'VE BEEN ABLE TO CARRY ON THE TRADITION.

MY DAD PASSED AWAY -- IT'S GONNA BE 5 1/2 YEARS AGO NOW -- AND I HAVE A FEELING HE'S WATCHING EVERY SINGLE MOVE I MAKE, SO... I KEEP TELLING THEM I'M GONNA RETIRE, AND THEY -- AND MY SON TELLS ME I CAN'T.

SAYS IT'S WHAT KEEPS ME GOING.

Sebak: PANCAKES AND MAPLE SYRUP CAN DO THAT -- KEEP YOU STRONG, KEEP YOU LOOKING FOR THAT NEXT GREAT MORNING MEAL.

IT'S A GOOD BREAKFAST.

IT MAKES YOU YOUNG, ALL RIGHT.

WE'VE GOT A "WHO DAT?"

SPECIAL BECAUSE THIS WEEKEND IS MARDI GRAS.

OH, YEAH, I CHECK OUT THE SPECIALS.

I ALWAYS GET THE SAME THING, BUT I CHECK OUT THE SPECIALS, JUST IN CASE.

Sebak: IF YOU'RE LUCKY, ONE MORNING YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF ON TYBEE ISLAND, NEAR SAVANNAH, GEORGIA.

IF YOU GET UP EARLY ENOUGH, JUST A BLOCK OR SO FROM THE BEACH, YOU CAN BEAT THE LINE AT THE BREAKFAST CLUB, BUT IT FILLS UP FAST.

Man: I BELIEVE THEY OPEN AT 7:00 IN THE MORNING, AND THEY CLOSE AT 1:00.

ONE OF THOSE PLACES YOU HAVE TO VISIT WHEN YOU VISIT TO TYBEE.

YOU HAVE TO EAT HERE.

Man #2: THIS THE BREAKFAST CLUB.

WHEN YOU COME HERE, YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE GETTING.

WAIT A MINUTE.

WE JUST GOT UP.

YEAH.

WELL, I LIVE IN ATLANTA NOW, SO JUST SATURDAY, SUNDAY NOW, BUT USED TO EVERY DAY.

THERE'S A LONG LINE, SO THAT SAYS SOMETHING GOOD.

OH, IT'S GREAT FOOD.

I MEAN, YEAH, IT'S REALLY GOOD.

I WORKED SILVERWARE.

I WAS, LIKE, SILVER GIRL WHEN I STARTED, THEN I STARTED BUSING, THEN I DID THE CASH REGISTER, THEN I WAITRESSED.

YOU GET TO CATCH UP ON ALL THE TYBEE GOSSIP.

THAT'S IT.

I JUST COME 'CAUSE I LIKE TO MESS WITH THEM, AND THE FOOD'S AWESOME.

Man #3: WELL, SOME FRIENDS OF US TOLD US TO COME HERE FROM ATLANTA, SO WE WANTED TO COME HERE FOR MY BIRTHDAY.

IT'S MY FAVORITE MEAL OF THE DAY, BREAKFAST.

Sebak: LOTS OF PEOPLE HERE LIKE BREAKFAST, INCLUDING JODEE SADOWSKY... 23!

...THE OWNER, CHEF, AND, SINCE 1983, KING OF TYBEE BREAKFAST.

Jodee: WHY BREAKFAST?

BECAUSE EGGS ARE -- WELL, WHEN I STARTED, WERE 5 CENTS APIECE.

[ CHUCKLES ] AND WHEN YOU OWN A BUSINESS, IF YOU DON'T THINK PROFIT-MINDED, YOU'RE PROBABLY NOT GONNA MAKE IT.

Man #1: HE'S THE LEADER OF THE PACK, AND WHEN HE'S HERE, IT MOVES FASTER.

IN FACT, THIS GUY CATERED OUR WEDDING ABOUT 11 YEARS AGO.

Sebak: OH, JODEE'S CATERED SOME WEDDINGS.

IN 1996, HE WENT TO NEARBY CUMBERLAND ISLAND AND WAS THE CHEF AT JOHN F. KENNEDY JR.

's VERY EXCLUSIVE WEDDING.

WHAT DID THEY GET FOR BREAKFAST?

ANYTHING THEY WANTED.

THE INGREDIENTS WERE OUT OF THIS WORLD.

YEAH, JFK, THEN HE DID US THE NEXT WEEK.

IT WAS PRETTY GOOD.

Woman: I'VE NEVER HAD FISH FOR BREAKFAST, SO I'M HAVING THE TILAPIA PANKO WITH FRIED GRITS.

THAT'S UNBELIEVABLE.

IT'S NOT YOUR TYPICAL BREAKFAST.

YOU'VE GOT A MIXTURE OF A LITTLE OF ALL OF IT.

I LOVE THE FRIED PORK CHOP, THE SWEET POTATOES, AND GRITS.

I KNOW THAT'S A SOUTHERN BREAKFAST.

[ LAUGHS ] Jodee: THE ONLY THING THAT MAKES IT SOUTHERN BREAKFAST IS THE GRITS.

Man #4: THEY GOT REAL GRITS HERE.

Man #5: GRITS HAVE SO MUCH BUTTER IN THEM.

I MEAN, IT'S JUST... YOU KNOW, BUTTER, AND PUT A LITTLE GRITS IN THERE.

THAT'S -- AND THEN, YOU KNOW, THE BACON.

IT'S A LOW-CHOLESTEROL EXPERIENCE.

I LIKE THE HOME FRIES.

Jodee: YOU ASK ANY CHEF, OF THE THREE MEAL PERIODS, WHICH ONE THEY DON'T WANT TO DO, AND THEY'RE GONNA TELL YOU BREAKFAST.

IT'S THE MOST DIFFICULT TO DO.

Man #4: THE MENU'S THE SAME EVERY DAY, AND THEN HE ADDS A COUPLE SPECIALS TO IT EVERY DAY.

YOU WANT THE CHEESE ON THOSE 'MATERS?

NO.

OH, YEAH, YEAH.

I DO LIKE CHEESE.

OKAY.

YEAH.

WHAT YOU HAVING, BIG POP?

ALL RIGHT!

"WHO DAT?"

TWO OVER EASY.

"WHO DAT?"

Jodee: WHAT IS IT?

IT'S BREAKFAST.

IT'S A BOUDIN SAUSAGE AND A POULTRY-BACON LOUISIANA SAUSAGE WITH GUMBO, GRITS.

THIS HERE'S TOAST.

THOSE ARE EGGS.

TODAY I JUST HAD A BLT BECAUSE I'M GETTING READY TO GO TO CHURCH, SO... MY MOTHER STARTED THIS IN 1976.

Woman: THEN AFTER I WAS HERE FOR A COUPLE YEARS, BUSINESS STARTED TO GET BETTER, SO WE MOVED OUT OF THE BACK ROOM AND PUT FOUR TABLES IN THERE.

Jodee: AND A COUPLE YEARS LATER, SHE SOLD IT TO ME.

I CALLED HIM UP AND MADE HIM AN OFFER HE COULDN'T REFUSE, AND THE REST IS HISTORY.

Man #1: AND THIS PLACE HAS NOT CHANGED, EXCEPT THE FOOD'S GOTTEN BETTER.

JODEE DOESN'T REALLY LIKE TO WAIT ON PEOPLE.

HE'LL DO THE COOKING, BUT HE DON'T WAIT ON PEOPLE.

[ LAUGHS ] GET OUT OF HERE!

Jodee: OKAY, ONE OF THE INTERESTING THINGS I HAVE IS AN EGG FLORENTINE.

A LOT OF PLACES HAVE THEM, BUT WE USE FRESH SPINACH.

I MAKE A NEST, PUT A LITTLE BIT OF GRILLING OIL, DROP AN EGG IN THERE, SEASON IT, COVER IT WITH ICE CUBES SO IT STEAMS AND POACHES THE SPINACH AND THE EGG TOGETHER.

MEANWHILE I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF ONIONS AND MUSHROOMS SAUTéING ON THE SIDE.

AND ONCE THAT EGG IS JUST LIGHTLY POACHED, WE COVER IT WITH THAT ONION-AND-MUSHROOM MIXTURE.

HOLLANDAISE -- FRESH HAND-WHIPPED HOLLANDAISE.

AND THAT EGG FLORENTINE II IS PROBABLY ONE OF OUR BETTER ITEMS.

WE'RE FANCY HERE SOMETIMES IF WE WANT TO BE.

Man #1: YOU'RE SITTING IN THE KITCHEN WHILE YOU'RE SITTING IN THE WAY, AND YOU WATCH THEM WORK.

Jodee: AND THEN I'M THE EXPEDITOR, WHICH IS ALSO TOASTER BOY.

RYAN!

COVER ME ON TOAST FOR JUST A MINUTE, WILL YOU?

Ryan: YEAH.

OKAY, THIS IS MY SON... RYAN.

HE'S RESPONSIBLE FOR... VERY, VERY LITTLE.

RIGHT, WHICH IS A GOOD THING.

[ LAUGHS ] AND EVERYBODY, I THINK, HAS AN ASSIGNED JOB.

THIS GUY HERE, HIS NAME IS JUSTIN WILLIAMS, MY MAIN EGG GUY.

ROLLS THE OMELETS, DOES OVER EASY, SCRAMBLED, POACHED, AND HE'S BEEN WITH ME A LONG, LONG TIME, PROBABLY ABOUT -- WHAT, 13 YEARS?

YEAH.

LOVE TO WATCH THEM COOK.

LOVE TO WATCH THEM TELL JOKES.

I MEAN, IT'S HILARIOUS.

THIS GUY IS CHRIS -- CHRIS WINOWITZ.

I CAN SPELL THAT IF YOU LIKE, BUT [CLEARS THROAT] THAT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN.

HE'S RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL THE POTATOES AND STARCHES, MEAT.

HE ALSO MADE THE BOUDIN SAUSAGE AND THE SPICY CHICKEN.

AND THIS GUY HERE -- 14th PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES, FRANKLIN PIERCE.

IT WAS 14th, WASN'T IT?

YEAH.

SEE?

THAT WAS PRETTY GOOD.

HE'S BEEN WITH ME SINCE HE WAS LIKE... 13.

13, YEAH.

BUT THAT WAS ILLEGAL, SO DON'T TELL ANYBODY.

14.

HIS MOTHER WORKED FOR ME.

HIS -- IN FACT, HIS GRANDPA AND GRANDMA ARE SITTING RIGHT THERE.

THEY BEEN EVERYDAY CUSTOMERS OF MINE FOR -- I DON'T -- SINCE I WAS -- SINCE I WAS IN MY 20s.

AND I THINK THAT'S IT, IN A NUTSHELL.

AND IT'S A REALLY GREAT CREW.

I DON'T PAY THEM ENOUGH.

THEY KNOW THAT, BUT -- BUT THEY'RE REALLY PROUD OF THEIR WORK.

THAT'S WHY THEY COME EVERY DAY.

[ LAUGHS ] IT'S A BUSY LITTLE PLACE ALL THE TIME.

Man #1: THE FOOD IS DELICIOUS, AND THE PRICE IS RIGHT.

NO BOTULISM YET...IN 16 YEARS.

THAT'S PRETTY GOOD.

I'M ABOUT TO DO SOMETHING THAT IS GONNA MAKE EVERYONE IN MY STAFF CHEER.

THE BEST PART OF THE DAY.

THE BEST PART OF THE DAY.

FLIP 'EM!

[ CHEERING ] WHEN HE YELLS, "FLIP 'EM," IT MEANS THAT THEY'RE CLOSING, SO THEY'RE GONNA FLIP THE SIGNS FROM "OPEN" TO "CLOSED."

AND THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST BREAKFAST RESTAURANTS WE'VE BEEN TO IN A WHILE.

AND WE LOVE IT.

WE LOVE IT.

Sebak: OH, PEOPLE CAN DEVELOP AMAZING AFFECTION FOR A PLACE WHERE THE DAY STARTS RIGHT AND WHERE YOU FEEL AT HOME.

I'VE GOT, YOU KNOW, KITCHEN GREASE COURSING THROUGH MY VEINS.

LIKE THE EGG, I MEAN -- YOU CAN TELL THEY USE EGGS FROM LOCAL FARMS.

LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T LIKE SITTING AT COUNTERS.

ONCE THEY SIT UP HERE, I'VE GOT THEM.

AND DON'T TELL ANYONE THIS, BUT FOR BREAKFAST, I HAD CHICKEN WINGS AND FRENCH FRIES, SO I FEEL A LITTLE GUILTY.

Sebak: FEELING NO GUILT, EARLY ONE SATURDAY MORNING IN COLUMBUS, OHIO, WE FOUND THIS SMALL RESTAURANT.

IT OPENED IN 2009 NEAR THE EDGE OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD CALLED GERMAN VILLAGE.

Patrick: NAME OF THE RESTAURANT'S SKILLET.

WE CALL IT "RUSTIC.

URBAN.

FOOD."

IT'S THREE SEPARATE DEFINITIONS.

AND IT'S BASICALLY COMFORT FOOD WITH AN EDGE.

SO WE'RE WANTING TO PROVIDE FARE THAT IS INGREDIENT-DRIVEN, UTILIZING HIGH-QUALITY INGREDIENTS FROM THE LOCAL AREA, RUSTIC PREPARATIONS -- BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN THAT THEY'RE NOT COMPLEX, JUST NOT COMPLICATED -- AND THEN GIVING THOSE ITEMS MORE OF AN URBAN OR AN UPSCALE FEEL TO THEM.

Sebak: THE TWO UPSCALE MEN IN THE KITCHEN ARE PATRICK CASKEY AND HIS FATHER, KEVIN CASKEY.

THEY HAVE SPENT TIME TOGETHER IN MANY KITCHENS.

YOU KNOW, HE NEVER JUST DID THE REGULAR PANCAKES OR THE REGULAR JUST SCRAMBLED EGGS.

HE ALWAYS MADE THINGS LIKE THAT WE SERVE HERE AT SKILLET, AND I THINK THAT'S WHY IT WAS SOMETHING THAT WE BOTH LOOK BACK ON, YOU KNOW, MY CHILDHOOD -- YOU KNOW, NOT HIS, BUT -- AND WE SAID, YOU KNOW, THINGS THAT WE USED TOAKE -- YOU KNOW, PANCAKES BUT NOT JUST REGULAR, OLD PANCAKES.

Kevin: OFTENTIMES, THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF "GENERATIONAL CONFLICT," IF YOU WILL, BUT GIVEN THE FACT THAT WE'VE HAD AN OPPORTUNITY TO WORK TOGETHER THROUGH THE YEARS, WE KIND OF KNOW EACH OTHER.

Sebak: WE LEARNED ABOUT SKILLET FROM A GUY NAMED NICK DEKKER, WHO TEACHES AT OHIO STATE AND WHO WRITES A BLOG CALLED "BREAKFAST WITH NICK."

HE SUGGESTED WE COME HERE.

Dekker: I HEARD ABOUT IT JUST THROUGH SOME OF THE OTHER COLUMBUS FOOD-BLOG COMMUNITY.

THERE WAS JUST A LOT OF BUZZ.

I MEAN, EVERYONE KNEW THIS LOCATION BECAUSE OF A RESTAURANT THAT USED TO BE HERE.

ONCE THEY OPENED, IT WAS MOBBED PRETTY QUICKLY.

THEY'RE PRETTY BUSY.

Sebak: THERE'S AN UNUSUAL RITUAL INVOLVED IN ORDERING HERE.

YOU ORDER AT THE COUNTER DIRECTLY INTO THE KITCHEN.

Dekker: I THINK IT HELPS THEM KEEP THEIR COSTS DOWN.

IT HELPS THEM SIMPLIFY THINGS THAT -- YEAH, YOU GO UP TO THE COUNTER AND ORDER YOUR FOOD THERE AND THEN THEY JUST BRING IT OUT TO YOU.

SEE, OKAY, HERE'S MY THREE CHOICES I CAME UP WITH -- EITHER THE PANCAKES, THE RISOTTO, OR THE OMELET.

SO, WHEN YOU COME UP, YOU JUST COME UP TO THE WINDOW, LOOK OVER THE MENU, PLACE YOUR ORDER, PAY, AND THEN HAVE A SEAT, AND WE FIX IT UP, AND WE'LL HAVE IT RIGHT OUT TO YOU.

SOMETHING KIND OF NEAT ABOUT THAT, BECAUSE THEN YOU'RE JUST -- YOU'RE INTERACTING DIRECTLY WITH THE KITCHEN.

I COULD, LIKE, STAND HERE AND JUST WATCH.

RIGHT.

[ CHUCKLES ] Dekker: USUALLY WHEN I COME INTO A PLACE, I ALWAYS HAVE A NOTEBOOK WITH ME, AND I HAVE MY CAMERA, TOO, AND I TRY TO GET PICTURES OF THE OUTSIDE, THE INSIDE, TAKE PICTURES OF ALL THE FOOD THAT WE ORDER.

SOMETIMES I'LL DO BEFORE AND AFTER PICTURES TO SHOW YOU, YOU KNOW, "THIS IS WHAT WE THOUGHT OF IT."

I'M THINKING ABOUT THE -- ACTUALLY, THE -- EITHER THE BREAKFAST SANDWICH OR THE OMELET.

Dekker: I MEAN, HAVING A SERVER IS NEVER A BAD THING, BUT TO BE ABLE TO JUST ORDER AND SEE THE GUYS RIGHT THERE COOKING YOUR STUFF, AND THEN THEY'LL BRING IT OUT TO YOU WHEN IT'S DONE -- IT'S NICE TO BE ABLE TO TAKE PART IN THE PROCESS THAT WAY.

OMELET.

THANK YOU.

YOU'RE WELCOME.

ENJOY.

THAT LOOKS GREAT.

THIS IS -- IT'S A SAVORY COBBLER THAT THEY MADE.

THIS IS A NEW ITEM.

I THINK THEIR MENU CHANGES BASED ON THE WEEKEND.

THEY KIND OF RELEASE A NEW MENU.

Kevin: WELL, BECAUSE WE ARE A SEASONAL RESTAURANT, OUR OFFERINGS CHANGE QUITE A BIT.

I JUST WANT TO CUT RIGHT INTO THIS AND TAKE A BITE.

FIND OUT WHAT A SAVORY COBBLER TASTES LIKE.

[ LAUGHS ] WELL, WHATEVER'S AVAILABLE TO US FROM LOCAL FARMS.

OH, THAT'S REALLY NICE.

WE HAVE TO REMAIN SOMEWHAT FLEXIBLE, AND WE ASK THAT OUR CUSTOMERS, AS WELL, KIND OF REMAIN FLEXIBLE IN THE OFFERINGS, AS WELL.

NICE CRISPINESS FROM THE -- FROM THE PASTRY HERE.

IT'S LIKE A PUFF PASTRY.

LOOKS LIKE SOME POTATOES IN THE MIDDLE, AS WELL, AND THEN THE EGGS.

THE EGGS THAT WE DO USE ARE LOCALLY PRODUCED FROM FARMS WITHIN A ROUGHLY 30-MILE RADIUS OF COLUMBUS, OHIO.

Patrick: I DON'T KNOW IF YOU'VE HAD A DUCK EGG BEFORE, BUT IT'S NOT A CHICKEN EGG, BY ANY MEANS.

I MEAN, THEY MAY LOOK SIMILAR, BUT THE SHELL ALONE, I CUT THROUGH WITH A KNIFE.

ONE OF OUR FARMERS THAT BRINGS THOSE IN FOR US HAS TO GO THROUGH A LOT OF TROUBLE, 'CAUSE HIS DUCKS LIKE TO LAY THEM IN THE POND.

THEY DON'T WANT TO LAY THEM IN A COOP.

SO HE'S GOT TO WADE OUT IN A RUBBER SUIT ABOUT YEA TALL TO GO GET THESE DUCK EGGS.

SO WE WANTED TO HAVE SOMETHING THAT WOULD REALLY NICELY FEATURE THEM, AND THE SWEET-POTATO DUCK HASH DOES THAT.

IT'S SWEET POTATOES THAT WE ROAST OFF IN THE MORNING.

WE CUT THOSE UP, SEASON THEM.

IT'S DUCK MEAT, OBVIOUSLY, SO, I MEAN, IT JUST PULLS IT ALL TOGETHER.

AND THE YOLK IS VERY HEARTY, VERY HEARTY, VERY RICH, BRIGHT, BRIGHT, BRIGHT ORANGE.

IT'S A REALLY NICE DISH.

WE'RE ALSO DOING A VERY NICE BREAKFAST RISOTTO.

IT'S JUST SLIGHTLY SWEET, PROBABLY NOSTALGIC MORE OF A WARM RICE PUDDING, AND WE'RE DOING A HONEY CRISP APPLE BRULé ON TOP WITH A PECAN, MOLASSES, RED-EYE GRAVY THAT'S GONNA ADD A NICE ACCENT TO CUT THROUGH SOME OF THE SWEETNESS THAT THAT RISOTTO WILL OFFER.

Dekker: THEY JUST FEEL SO WELL-ESTABLISHED.

THEY KNOW WHAT THEY'RE DOING.

AND THEY HAVE A PRETTY DEDICATED CLIENTELE ALREADY THAT IT JUST, YOU KNOW -- IT JUST FEELS KIND OF LIKE A -- IT'S A COMFORTABLE PLACE ALREADY.

Sebak: AND A COMFORTABLE PLACE IS A GOOD PLACE FOR BREAKFAST.

BEFORE WE LEFT COLUMBUS, NICK SUGGESTED WE CHECK OUT ANOTHER PLACE IN A SUBURB CALLED WESTERVILLE.

Dekker: THIS IS CALLED THE BEST BREAKFAST & SANDWICHES, AND THAT'S IT -- NICE SIMPLE NAME.

I MEAN, THIS IS IN A STRIP MALL.

THIS IS -- YOU KNOW, THERE'S A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT STORES AND RESTAURANTS.

I KIND OF LIKE HOW THIS IS ACTUALLY IN A SECTION THAT'S SET BACK, A LITTLE FURTHER BACK FROM THE MAIN ROAD, 'CAUSE IT MAKES IT A LITTLE MORE OF A FIND, LIKE YOU HAVE TO BE IN THE KNOW.

Tom: WE'RE IN -- WE'RE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, BASICALLY.

IT'S SMALL.

WE'RE ONLY A THOUSAND SQUARE FEET.

WE GOT 36 SEATS, BUT WE MAKE IT WORK.

Sebak: THAT'S TOM SPANGLER.

HE OWNS AND RUNS THIS PLACE WITH HIS WIFE, JAN.

THEY BOTH WORKED FOR YEARS IN WHAT THEY CALL "CORPORATE RESTAURANTS" BEFORE THEY OPENED HERE IN 2007.

Tom: I COOK, AND SHE DOES ALL THE BOSS WORK.

I'M IN CHARGE OF PAYROLL.

I'M IN CHARGE OF THE SERVERS.

I AM IN CHARGE OF GOING TO THE STORE.

Tom: AND WE BOTH DO BOTH, BUT... I DON'T COOK, AND I DON'T DO DISHES.

I'VE DONE ENOUGH OF THAT AT HOME AND THROUGHOUT THE YEARS.

I DRAW THE LINE.

THE MENU'S ACTUALLY VERY SIMPLE.

IT'S ALL BASED ON A SIMPLE PREMISE FOR ME, 'CAUSE I'M NOT A CHEF -- I'M A COOK.

HE IS A HAM.

TRUST ME, YOU PUT A MICROPHONE OR A CAMERA OR SOMETHING IN FRONT OF HIM, HE -- HE'S A HAM.

Tom: I ALWAYS WANTED MY OWN LITTLE BREAKFAST DINER.

I'VE ALWAYS LOVED COOKING BREAKFAST FOOD.

I'VE ALWAYS ENJOYED THE PEOPLE THAT COME OUT EARLY.

WE'VE BEEN COMING IN HERE FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF.

MY WIFE COMES HERE.

OUR FRIENDS COME HERE.

OH, FOUR TO FIVE DAYS A WEEK.

I THINK WORD OF MOUTH HAS JUST CREATED A SITUATION HERE WHERE SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO STAND IN LINE JUST TO GET BREAKFAST.

Woman: MOST OF THE PEOPLE IN HERE TODAY, WE SEE A HANDFUL OF TIMES A WEEK, SOME OF THEM DAILY.

USED TO GET THE COUNTRY-FRIED STEAK, HOMEMADE GRAVY... I JUST GOT A COUPLE EGGS OVER EASY WITH THEIR POTATOES.

...COUPLE EGGS, SPECIAL HOME FRIES WITH ONION CAJUN SEASONING.

WELL, THEY SAY I'M WEIRD.

LIKE, THIS MORNING, I HAD CHILI AND POTATO SALAD FOR BREAKFAST.

MARCH, I HAD A MASSIVE HEART ATTACK.

NOW IT'S -- I HAVE EGG BEATERS.

THEY MAKE EGG BEATERS FOR ME WITH TOMATO, ONION, GARLIC.

TODAY, I TRIED THE COUNTRY-FRIED STEAK.

THIS MORNING, I'M TRYING TO EAT HEALTHY.

SO I'M ORDERING OATMEAL AND WHEAT TOAST.

WE USUALLY KNOW THEIR NAME.

WE USUALLY KNOW WHAT THEY LIKE.

YOU KNOW WHEN YOU WALK IN THE DOOR AND THE WAITRESS SAYS, "YOU WANT YOUR USUAL?"

YOU KNOW YOU'VE BEEN -- YOU KNOW YOU'VE BEEN ADOPTED AS A REGULAR.

WE'VE TRIED EVERYTHING -- OMELETS.

HE HAD HIS FIRST OMELET HERE.

Tom: AND IF THEY'RE REALLY HUNGRY, YOU KNOW, THE SAUSAGE GRAVY, THE CHIPPED BEEF AND GRAVY, WHICH IS REALLY DIFFICULT TO FIND FRESH-MADE CHIPPED BEEF AND GRAVY, S.O.S.

I WAS RAISED ON THE CHIPPED BEEF, AND I TOLD HIM THAT WAS ONE THING THAT WE WERE GONNA HAVE ON THE MENU, AND HE SAID, "NO," AND I SAID, "YEAH, WE ARE."

Tom: WE HAD A HECK OF A TIME WITH THE POTATOES WHEN WE OPENED.

AND THEN WE HAD A LOT OF COMPLAINTS UNTIL WE CAME ACROSS -- I'M GONNA GIVE YOU A BIG SECRET HERE -- WE BRUSH THEM WITH BACON GREASE BEFORE WE BAKE THEM.

AND ONCE WE DID THAT -- IT'S THE SAME POTATO, THE SAME PROCESS, THE SAME BAKING TIME -- PEOPLE WENT FROM HATING THEM TO THEN SAYING IT'S THE BEST POTATO THEY EVER HAD IN THEIR LIFE.

IT WAS THE WEIRDEST THING I'VE EVER SEEN IN THIS BUSINESS.

Woman: YOU'D BE SURPRISED AT THE PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO SIT AT THIS COUNTER AND WATCH THE FOOD BEING COOKED IN FRONT OF THEM, WATCH THEIR BREAD CUT AS IT GOES IN THE TOASTER.

Tom: WE BAKE THE BREAD, SLICE EVERY SLICE OF BREAD AS ORDERED.

I THINK ONE SLICE IS PROBABLY COMPARABLE TO 2 1/2 AVERAGE WHITE-BREAD SLICES.

ONCE YOU'VE HAD OUR BREAD, WE'VE GOT YOU HOOKED.

BUT IF YOU WANT EGGS OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT, I'D GO FOR THE CORNED-BEEF HASH.

Tom: WE HAVE CORNED BEEF THAT WE CUT UP.

AND WE HAVE THE POTATOES THAT WE CUT UP.

AND WE HAVE THE ONIONS.

WE PUT THEM ALL TOGETHER AND THEN PUT THE SALT AND PEPPER ON IT IN A PAN.

SO IT'S MADE FRESH EVERY TIME SOMEBODY ORDERS IT.

WE DON'T HAVE IT PRE-MADE ANYWHERE.

Man: IT'S AWESOME.

IT'S AWESOME.

I SIT HERE OFTEN AND WATCH THEM MAKE IT, WATCH THEM SHAVE IT ON THE SLICER AND THEN SERVE IT UP.

YEAH, IT'S GREAT.

AND WE COOK IT CRISPY, A COUPLE NICE EGGS ON TOP, SERVED WITH OUR BREAD.

IT DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER THAN THAT.

Dekker: AND IT BECOMES A, YOU KNOW, VERY COMFORTABLE EXPERIENCE.

THAT'S WHY THEY CALL IT "COMFORT FOOD."

IT'S BECAUSE IT REMINDS YOU OF HOME.

IT'S JUST LIKE YOU'RE A FAMILY.

[ LAUGHS ] THIS IS ACTUALLY MY NEIGHBOR ACROSS THE STREET.

BOTH OF OUR SPOUSES ARE STILL SLEEPING.

WE COULDN'T GET THEM UP.

[ LAUGHS ] Woman: YOU KNOW WHAT?

I LOVE THE FAMILY PART OF IT.

I LOVE BEING ACKNOWLEDGED.

PEOPLE COME IN.

THEY COME IN.

THEY KNOW I'M THE DAUGHTER.

THEY KNOW MY BROTHER'S HERE.

HE'S THE SON.

YEAH, IT'S KIND OF LIKE A FAMILY HERE, REALLY.

AND I THINK WHAT REALLY BRINGS ME HERE IS, THEY KNOW YOU.

I THINK THAT'S THE KEY.

THEY'RE NOT JUST PROVIDING A SERVICE FOR YOU, THEY KNOW YOU, THEY KNOW ABOUT YOU, AND THEY RELATE TO YOU IN MEANINGFUL WAYS.

SO IT'S -- IT'S -- IT'S NICE.

BUT WE LIKE IT.

IT'S HOMEY.

Tom: FIGURED I PUT MY NAME OUT THERE, AND THEN I HAD TO LIVE UP TO IT.

SO WE COULDN'T -- WE COULDN'T WAVER.

WE HAD TO LIVE UP TO THE NAME.

AND, ACTUALLY, OVER THE LAST YEAR, I'VE CONCLUDED IT IS THE BEST.

YEAH, IT IS THE BEST.

YEAH, I WAS GONNA SAY, IT'S THE BEST.

Jan: I LOOK FORWARD -- I LITERALLY LOOK FORWARD TO COMING IN HERE IN THE MORNINGS BECAUSE OF SO MANY PEOPLE THAT WE'VE GOT TO KNOW.

Tom: YOU KNOW, ONCE YOU COME HERE ONE TIME, YOU WILL BE BACK, AND I ALWAYS TELL THEM, "YOU GOT TO BRING SOMEBODY ELSE.

"YOU'RE NOT ALLOWED TO COME BACK ALONE.

"YOU'VE GOT TO BRING SOMEONE ELSE AND COME IN AND SUPPORT THE RESTAURANT."

IT'S GOOD FOOD IN A COMFORTABLE, WELCOMING PLACE.

I MEAN, HOW CAN YOU NOT WANT TO GO THERE?

WE EVEN COME IN HERE FOR LUNCH.

Sebak: A COMFORTABLE PLACE NEAR HOME CAN BE REASSURING.

WHEN YOU TRAVEL, A NEW BREAKFAST PLACE CAN BE SURPRISING AND DELICIOUS.

Janett: THIS IS A SMALL PLACE.

BUT YOU MEET PEOPLE FROM EVERYWHERE.

SOME OF THE REGULARS COME IN, AND THEY JUST WAVE, AND WE KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THEY WANT ALREADY.

Man: AND THERE'S CUBAN BREAD HIDING UNDER THAT OMELET, YEAH.

THAT'S GOOD.

Sebak: WHETHER YOU LIVE HERE OR NOT, WHEN YOU FIND YOURSELF ONE MORNING IN ST.

AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA, THE OLDEST CITY IN THE COUNTRY, YOU MIGHT WANT TO LOOK FOR A CAFé ON AVILES STREET, THAT CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST STREET IN AMERICA.

Manny: IT'S THE OLDEST STREET.

IT'S THE STREET THAT WAS THE FIRST MADE, I GUESS.

THE NAME OF THE CAFé IS LA HERENCIA CAFé, WHICH MEANS "THE HERITAGE."

ALSO, IT CAN ALSO MEAN "THE INHERITANCE."

IT ALL DEPENDS HOW YOU USE IT IN SPANISH, IN THE SENTENCE, WHAT MEANING YOU GIVE IT.

IT COULD BE "THE INHERITANCE," BUT IT'S NO "INHERITANCE," IT'S "THE HERITAGE."

[ LAUGHS ] Sebak: THAT'S JANETT HERRERO.

SHE AND HER HUSBAND, MANUEL HERRERO, OWN AND RUN THIS PLACE IN THIS HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOOD.

Manny: THIS BUILDING IS PROBABLY ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS OLD.

THAT'S WHAT THEY TELL ME, AND MY PLUMBER CONFIRMS WHEN HE HAS TO WORK ON THE PIPES.

Sebak: THEY DON'T OPEN TILL 9:00, BUT THEY SERVE BREAKFAST.

Manny: I'D RATHER COOK BREAKFAST THAN ANYTHING ELSE, TO BE HONEST.

I'VE BEEN COOKING AND IN THE FOOD BUSINESS MOST OF MY LIFE, AND I'VE ALWAYS TRIED TO AVOID DINNER AND HIGH-END, GOURMET, FINE-DINING-TYPE THING, 'CAUSE I LIKE THE BREAKFAST.

I THINK IT'S CASUAL.

I THINK IT'S HOMEY.

Janett: IF I GET UP IN THE MORNING, I DON'T HAVE BREAKFAST -- I HAVE TO HAVE BREAKFAST.

IT DOESN'T MATTER IF I GET UP AT 3:00 OR WHATEVER.

I NEED TO HAVE MY BREAKFAST FIRST.

Manny: I LOVE BREAKFAST ALL THE TIME.

I LOVE BREAKFAST AT 3:00 IN THE MORNING.

I LOVE BREAKFAST AT 2:00 IN THE AFTERNOON.

Janett: I LIKE THE PEOPLE, AND HE LIKES THE COOKING, SO... Man: PEOPLE COME TO THE CENTER OF THE TOWN BECAUSE IT'S SO OLD, SO YOU DISCOVER ALL THESE LITTLE CAFES.

WE WERE JUST WALKING DOWN THE STREET.

WE WERE AT THE WAX MUSEUM ONE DAY AND JUST KIND OF TURNED DOWN AND FOUND IT.

OUR CHURCH IS RIGHT OVER THERE, AND AFTER CHURCH, WE WERE WALKING AROUND, TRYING TO FIND A PLACE TO EAT, AND WE LOVE CUBAN FOOD, SO WE STOPPED IN HERE.

AND WE WENT LOOKING, AND WE CAME IN HERE.

AND WE FOUND OUT THEY WERE SPANISH-SPEAKING, WE TALKED, WE MADE A FRIENDSHIP, AND I'VE BEEN A REGULAR EVER SINCE.

EVERY TIME WE COME IN, THEY GIVE US A BIG, OLD HUG AND WELCOME US BACK AND... WE REALLY LOVE IT BECAUSE IT'S OUT OF THE WAY AND SO QUIET.

AND SO I COME HERE WHENEVER I HAVE A CHANCE TO HAVE BREAKFAST, COFFEE, A LATE-AFTERNOON DESSERT.

IT'S A HOMEY ATMOSPHERE.

IT'S KIND OF LIKE YOU'RE EATING AT HOME, NOT AT A RESTAURANT, YOU KNOW.

IT'S REALLY NICE.

THAT'S ONE OF MY GOALS -- I WANT PEOPLE TO FEEL LIKE THEY'RE IN MY HOUSE AND THEY'RE IN MY PATIO OR MY DINING ROOM, AND -- AND JUST FEEL VERY COMFORTABLE.

THAT, AND THE FOOD IS LIKE HOME COOKING FROM CUBA.

MANNY HAS MANY SPECIALTY OMELETS THAT HE'S DONE, AND PEOPLE HAVE GOTTEN TO, YOU KNOW, REALLY LIKE THEM.

AND ONE OF THEM IS THE GUAJIRO.

Manny: A LOT OF PEOPLE COME AND ASK FOR HUEVOS RANCHEROS, AND WE DON'T HAVE IT ON THE MENU BECAUSE THAT'S TYPICALLY A MEXICAN BREAKFAST.

AND THE WAY THAT I STARTED THINKING ABOUT IT WAS, YOU KNOW, THERE'S GOT TO BE SOMETHING THAT -- TOWARDS THE CUBAN SIDE BUT SIMILAR TO A HUEVOS RANCHERO.

THE GUAJIRO HE PUTS IN... IT'S SERVED ON, LIKE, AN OPEN OMELET WITH BREAD UNDERNEATH.

Manny: PRETTY MUCH, INSTEAD OF THE TORTILLA, WE USE THE CUBAN BREAD.

I ADD ALL THE PORK, BECAUSE PORK IS LIKE A STAPLE OF CUBAN FOOD.

Janett: AND IT HAS BLACK BEANS -- BLACK BEANS AND THEN THE PORK AND THEN A SALSA ON TOP, AND ON TOP OF THAT IS CHEESE.

Manny: "GUAJIRO" MEANS "COUNTRY PERSON" IN CUBAN TERMS.

Man: THEY HAVE OTHER LITTLE BREAKFASTS.

THEY HAVE ONE CALLED A TROPICAL OMELET, WHICH IS ALSO VERY TASTY.

SHE LOVES CUBAN SANDWICHES.

EACH SANDWICH THAT WE MAKE AND EVERY ORDER THAT COMES IN, IT'S MADE AT THAT TIME.

MUSTARD, PICKLES, HAM, ROASTED PORK, AND SWISS CHEESE.

NICELY PRESSED, A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER ON THE TOP TO TOAST THE BUN.

A LOT OF PEOPLE, THAT'S THE WAY THEY START THE DAY -- WITH A CUBAN SANDWICH.

I ALSO DO GREAT DESSERTS.

THAT'S THE ONLY THING I DO.

Manny: OH, THEY'RE GREAT.

THEY'RE AWESOME.

Woman: EVERYBODY SHOULD HAVE DESSERT FOR BREAKFAST, YEAH.

BREAKFAST ISN'T COMPLETE WITHOUT DESSERT.

[ LAUGHS ] Janett: I HAVE MY MOTHER-IN-LAW'S FAMOUS FLAN RECIPE.

I MASTERED IT.

A LOT OF PEOPLE LOVE THE FLAN.

IT'S JUST AS GOOD AS MY MOTHER'S, BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO SAY IT'S BETTER.

WE SHARED IT, BUT I COULD HAVE EATEN A WHOLE ONE, I THINK.

[ LAUGHTER ] Janett: AND THE TRES LECHES, ALSO.

IT'S A THREE-MILK MOIST CAKE, AND I EVEN DO MY WHIPPED CREAM SO I CONTROL THE SUGAR ON IT, SO... I COME HERE FOR THE COFFEE.

[ LAUGHS ] AND THE AMBIANCE.

Janett: WE HAVE THE CUBAN COFFEE.

WE HAVE A COLOMBIAN BEAN THAT WE GET MAILED FROM SOUTH FLORIDA.

AND THE COFFEE, CAFé CON LECHE... OH, TO DIE FOR.

Woman #2: SOMETIMES I GET... IT'S A SMALL LATTE, WHICH I SOMETIMES FORGET HOW TO SAY.

A CORTADITO.

IT'S HARD TO FIND A NICE PLACE WHERE THE FOOD IS -- YOU KNOW, THE ATMOSPHERE, THE VIBE IS REALLY NICE.

Janett: ME AND MANNY, WE -- YOU KNOW, WE ARE A TEAM FOR EVERYTHING.

AND THIS IS WHAT GIVES US THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE TOGETHER... THIS IS AN ONGOING PROJECT.

YOU KNOW, LIKE I TELL MY WIFE, IT'S A -- IT'S A -- IT'S NEVER FINISHED.

IT'S PROBABLY NEVER GONNA BE FINISHED, BECAUSE I LIKE TO CHANGE THINGS AROUND, AND SHE LIKES TO CHANGE THE DECORATION AROUND.

AND I LIKE TO CHANGE A LOT OF THE FOOD AND WHAT WE DO.

Woman #1: I ALWAYS WANT TO EAT AT A PLACE THAT, YOU KNOW, THE PEOPLE MAKE YOU FEEL LIKE FAMILY, SO IT'S NICE.

AND THERE'S A LOT OF PLACES TO GO IN THIS TOWN, BUT WE'D RATHER COME HERE.

Man: BUT THAT'S THE FUN OF TRAVELING.

STICK YOUR HEAD IN A RESTAURANT AND SEE WHO'S EATING THERE.

AND IF YOU LIKE THE LOOKS OF THE PEOPLE, TRY IT.

WE GET A MENU, YOU KNOW, YOU CAN SEE.

THIS ONE IS CHINESE DONUT.

THAT'S OUR FAVORITE.

IT'S CALLED THE COW'S TONGUE... BREAD.

'CAUSE IT KIND OF LOOKS LIKE... A COW'S TONGUE.

Sebak: FINDING SOMETHING NEW AND UNUSUAL FOR BREAKFAST MAY EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS, MAY TRANSPORT YOU.

LET'S SAY IT'S MORNING, AND YOU'RE ON BROADWAY IN SAN FRANCISCO'S CHINATOWN.

YOU SEE THIS PLACE.

Mei: HING LUNG.

THIS RESTAURANT IS HING LUNG RESTAURANT.

WE OPEN AT -- EARLY IN THE MORNING, 8:00 A.M.

UNTIL 10:00 P.M.

Sebak: THAT'S MEI GONG.

SHE AND HER FAMILY OWN THIS PLACE THAT'S RENOWNED FOR A CREAMY RICE PORRIDGE THAT MANY ASIAN PEOPLE EAT FOR BREAKFAST.

Mei: WE HAVE RICE COOKED A LONG TIME.

WE MAKE IT.

FOR US, THE ONE WE ALWAYS COME BACK HERE FOR IS THE PORRIDGE, OR JOOK.

Sebak: JOOK IS A PLAIN RICE PORRIDGE THAT CAN HAVE LOTS OF DIFFERENT THINGS ADDED TO IT.

IT ALSO HAS MANY NAMES, INCLUDING "CONGEE," A WORD FROM INDIA, AND "JOOK" OR "JO" FROM THE CHINESE.

WITH CHINESE, I SAY "JO."

"JOOK'S" THE CANTONESE PRONUNCIATION.

MANDARIN IS "JO."

AND THEN I GUESS ENGLISH IS "CONGEE" OR "RICE PORRIDGE."

FOR US IN THE FILIPINO LANGUAGE, WE CALL IT "LUGAO," WHICH IS THE SAME VARIATION.

I HAD THE CONGEE.

THAT'S ONE OF THE SPECIALTIES HERE.

CONGEE IS BASICALLY JUST RICE COOKED FOR A COUPLE HOURS.

THERE YOU GO.

WHITE PEPPER -- THAT'S ALL YOU NEED.

Liu: WHEN THEY COOK IT, THEY COOK IT WITH PLAIN NOTHING, BUT WHEN YOU ORDER, THEY PUT EXTRA INGREDIENT THAT YOU LIKE.

IT'S THE BEST IN THE CITY, AND YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH THE FRIED -- I CALL IT THE FRIED BREAD, BUT ON THE MENU, IT'S CALLED A FRIED DOUGHNUT.

Sebak: WE FOUND OUT ABOUT THIS PLACE ON A BLOG CALLED "FOODHOE'S FORAGING," POSTED BY A YOUNG WOMAN NAMED SANDY WADA.

Wada: I JUST AM OBSESSED WITH TAKING PICTURES OF THE GREAT-LOOKING FOOD THAT I'M EATING.

I POST IT UP ON THE SITE.

AND I'M VERY DISTRACTED RIGHT NOW.

[ LAUGHS ] BUT I PUT THEM UP ON MY SITE WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF WHAT I'M EATING.

I THINK... MY EMPHASIS IS MORE ON THE EXPERIENCE OF EATING AND LOOKING AT THE FOOD THAT I'M EATING.

I'M NOT REALLY A RESTAURANT CRITIC.

I DON'T HAVE ASPIRATIONS TO BE A CRITIC.

Sebak: ONE OF SANDY'S BUSINESS COLLEAGUES NAMED KENT LIU GREW UP HERE IN CHINATOWN AND CAME TO HAVE JOOK, TOO.

YEAH, J-O-O-K, "JOOK."

"JOOK."

YEP.

"JOOK."

YEP.

THIS JOOK -- I MEAN CONGEE -- WE'RE ORDERING IS THE PORK WITH PRESERVED EGG.

AND ALSO, WE ALSO CALL IT "THOUSAND-YEAR-OLD EGG."

AND I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO MY FIRST BITE.

IT'S SORT OF UNUSUAL-LOOKING, THOUGH.

IF YOU CONSIDER WHAT, YOU KNOW, AN EGG LOOKS LIKE VERSUS THE "THOUSAND-YEAR-OLD EGG."

THIS THEY SAY IS A BEEF.

THEY SAY IT'S A... SALTED -- SALTED PORK.

NO, IT'S A THOUSAND EGG.

IT'S YUMMY.

IT'S VERY GOOD.

Man #2: SO THIS IS CENTURY EGG AND THEN THE SHREDDED PORK THAT'S INSIDE.

MY SON-IN-LAW DOESN'T LIKE IT, BUT WE ENJOY IT.

JOOK IS KIND OF LIKE THE DAILY THING.

YEAH, BECAUSE YOU CAN HAVE JOOK EVERY DAY BECAUSE YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF -- OF COURSE, NOT AS GOOD AS HERE.

THIS IS THE BEST ONE THAT THEY HAVE.

THIS ONE AND THE SLICED-FISH PORRIDGE -- IT'S REALLY REALLY GOOD.

I THINK EVERY ASIAN CULTURE HAS SOME FORM OF THIS, YOU KNOW, THE RICE PORRIDGE.

PROBABLY THRIFTY ASIAN COOKS, THEY, YOU KNOW -- THEY USE THE LEFTOVER RICE, BOIL IT WITH WATER, AND IT'S A GREAT, YOU KNOW, LIGHT, HEALTHY, SATISFYING MEAL.

IT'S GOOD.

AS YOU WALK IN, LIKE, YOU KNOW, IF YOU'VE NEVER BEEN HERE, YOU SEE THIS -- "WELL, WHAT IS THAT?

WHAT ARE THEY MAKING?"

RIGHT?

ESPECIALLY, I THINK THESE ARE ALL HANDMADE, SO THAT'S RIGHT OFF THE WINDOW.

WHEN THEY SEE THE MENU AND THEY LIKE IT, THEY ORDER.

[ CHUCKLES ] I MEAN THERE'S ENDLESS VARIATIONS OF THE JOOK.

I THINK THEY HAVE OVER 20 -- 20 DIFFERENT STYLES YOU CAN ORDER ON THE MENU HERE.

AND SO YOU COULD GET IT VERY PLAIN, OR YOU COULD HAVE IT WITH FROG'S LEGS OR LIVER AND MORE INTERESTING ITEMS.

BUT YOU CAN GET IT WITH FISH AND PORK AND CHICKEN AND... I LIKE THE FISH... AND THE CHINESE BREAD.

ARE YOU GONNA TRY THE FRIED BREAD?

OH, NORMALLY, WE JUST DIP IT.

Man #1: I DON'T USUALLY GET THE BREAD.

USUALLY, A BOWL OF CONGEE IS ENOUGH FOR ME.

THEY'RE VERY AIRY AND A LITTLE MORE EGG-Y -- DELICIOUS THOUGH, DIPPED IN THE JOOK.

I GET A LOT OF, YOU KNOW, DIFFERENT PEOPLE, DIFFERENT TASTES, YOU KNOW.

YEAH, LOT OF PEOPLE.

YEAH, THEY COME OVER.

IT'S VERY COMFORTING.

IT'S LIKE THE ULTIMATE COMFORT FOOD.

ESPECIALLY WHEN WE'RE TRAVELING, TOO, AND YOU FIND A LOCAL PLACE LIKE CHINESE -- CHINATOWN, LIKE HERE -- IT'S JUST NICE TO HAVE THAT RESTAURANT AROUND.

YOU KNOW, FOR CONGEE, NOODLE... THIS IS MY KIND OF BREAKFAST.

Man #1: WELL, THE CHINESE FOOD IN SAN FRANCISCO'S WONDERFUL.

IT'S VERY COMPETITIVE.

LOOK AT THAT!

YOU HAVE A LOT OF TOURISTS.

AND IN SPITE OF THE TOURISTS, IT STILL IS PREDOMINANTLY A REAL CHINESE COMMUNITY.

SO YOU CAN'T STAY IN BUSINESS IN THE CHINESE COMMUNITY LIKE THIS PLACE HAS FOR OVER 20 YEARS UNLESS IT'S GOOD.

YEAH, WE GET A LOT OF FRIENDS.

YOU KNOW, THEY COME LOT OF TIME.

AND THEY LIKE IT.

[ CHUCKLES ] Sebak: THERE'S NO QUESTION -- BREAKFAST IS A CULTURAL FORCE THAT CONNECTS PEOPLE, THAT BUILDS COMMUNITIES, THAT EVEN CAN HELP DEFINE A CITY.

Man: I'VE NOTICED THAT, SINCE LIVING HERE, THAT THE BREAKFAST PLACES ARE JUST ALWAYS FULL.

NO MATTER WHAT, YOU ORDER BISCUITS AND GRAVY OUT IN THIS TOWN, YOU GET SAUSAGE GRAVY.

I'M LIKE, "WHERE'S MY DADDY'S BACON GRAVY?!"

PORTLAND'S GREAT FOR BREAKFAST.

THERE'S A LOT OF REALLY GREAT BREAKFAST PLACES.

IT'S VERY PORTLAND TO GO TO BREAKFAST.

YEAH, PORTLAND IS BREAKFAST.

IT'S A GREAT STAPLE HERE.

DID YOU GET THAT BOOK, THE "BREAKFAST IN BRIDGETOWN"?

HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THAT?

Sebak: YEAH, PORTLAND, OREGON, HAS SEVERAL NICKNAMES, INCLUDING "BRIDGETOWN," WHICH MADE FOR A NICE TITLE FOR A GUIDEBOOK -- "BREAKFAST IN BRIDGETOWN."

ONE MORNING, WE MET ITS AUTHOR, PAUL GERALD.

Gerald: THIS IS ALBERTA STREET IN NORTHEAST PORTLAND, AND MAYBE 15 YEARS AGO, YOU WOULD HAVE SEEN A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOOD HERE -- LOW INCOME, CRIME, DRUGS, THE OCCASIONAL SHOOTING.

AND ONE OF THE THINGS THAT HAPPENED IS THAT RESTAURANTS STARTED OPENING HERE.

AND ONE OF THE FIRST ONES WAS THE TIN SHED HERE, WHERE, ALL OF A SUDDEN, YOU KNOW, THERE'S PEOPLE HERE EATING, YOU KNOW, ROSEMARY-MUSHROOM GRAVY ON THEIR ORGANIC BISCUITS, WHICH WAS NOT HAPPENING HERE 15 YEARS AGO.

Kaden: WELL, THIS INTERSECTION RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET WAS THE NUMBER-ONE INTERSECTION FOR DRIVE-BY SHOOTINGS WHEN WE MOVED IN.

Sebak: JANETTE KADEN WAS ONE OF THE TWO WOMEN WHO STARTED THIS RESTAURANT.

Kaden: THE TIN SHED STARTED AFTER MY PARTNER AND I HAD DONE A LOT OF TRAVELING FOR MANY YEARS, AND WE WERE BOTH BROKE, AND WE BOTH HAD A LOT OF EXPERIENCE IN OTHER PEOPLE'S RESTAURANTS.

Gerald: THIS IS SORT OF A STAGE IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF A NEIGHBORHOOD, IS WHEN A PLACE LIKE THIS OPENS.

AND NOW EVERYBODY KNOWS ALBERTA STREET, BREAKFAST -- OH, YEAH, THE TIN SHED.

Kaden: WE OPENED IN FEBRUARY OF 2002, AND IT PROBABLY -- IT WAS CONSTANT GROWTH FROM THAT POINT FOR THE NEXT SEVEN YEARS.

THIS WAS ONE OF THE VERY FIRST RESTAURANTS THAT WAS RECOMMENDED TO ME WHEN I MOVED TO PORTLAND ABOUT 3 1/2 YEARS AGO, PARTLY BECAUSE I JUST LOVE GOING OUT FOR BREAKFAST.

Woman: AND BECAUSE IT -- RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING, IT HAD THE WHOLE LOCAL, ORGANIC THING THAT IT KIND OF NAILED THAT MARKET RIGHT AT THE VERY BEGINNING.

Kaden: AND WE DEFINITELY KNEW THAT BREAKFAST WOULD BE THE MEAL THAT PUT US ON THE MAP.

OH, MY GOSH, LOOK AT ALL THAT!

Man: WE LIVE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN, BUT IT'S WORTH THE TRIP OVER.

THIS IS A GREAT NEIGHBORHOOD.

OH, WE LIVE OUT IN NORTH PORTLAND.

WE'VE BEEN HERE A FEW TIMES FOR THEIR EXCELLENT CUISINE.

WELL, WE'VE BEEN HERE A LOT, AND WE LIVE JUST OVER THERE.

I USED TO LIVE ON THE WAY OTHER SIDE OF TOWN, DOWN IN SOUTHEAST, AND I WOULD DRIVE ALL THE WAY UP HERE JUST TO COME TO TIN SHED.

Man #2: I HAVEN'T BEEN HERE IN A WHILE.

I USED TO LIVE RIGHT UP THE STREET.

SO IT'S KIND OF NICE TO COME BACK AND... OH, IT'S A VERY HIP NEIGHBORHOOD, YEAH.

WE HAVE OUR -- MY PARENTS ARE HERE FROM OUT OF TOWN, SO WE WANTED TO HAVE A SPECIAL BREAKFAST.

THEY'RE ONLY HERE FOR ONE DAY.

Woman #2: LAST SUMMER, I WAS GETTING READY TO MOVE AND THINKING ABOUT OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS IN TOWN, AND I WAS LIKE, "OH, MAYBE I SHOULD MOVE TO NORTHEAST PORTLAND."

SO I SORT OF MOVED HERE BECAUSE I KNEW ABOUT THE TIN SHED.

THE FOOD IS GREAT.

THE MENU'S VERY CREATIVE.

I REALLY ENJOY THE MENU.

AND I DO HAVE TO SAY THAT MY HUSBAND THINKS THE TIN SHED IS PRETENTIOUS AND NOT WORTH THE WAIT AND OVERPRICED.

SO HE'S AT HOME.

[ LAUGHING ] AND WE'RE HERE, 'CAUSE I THINK THE FOOD IS GREAT.

I AM ALWAYS TRYING TO FIND A GOOD BREAKFAST PLACE, AND I LOVE THIS ONE 'CAUSE IT IS.

IT'S QUAINT AND FUN, AND I LOVE THE PEOPLE HERE.

Man #3: IT'S GOOD FOOD.

IT'S, YOU KNOW, A NEIGHBORHOOD PLACE, AND IT'S BUSY, SO... I ALWAYS GET THE FRENCH TOAST AND HOT CHOCOLATE.

Kaden: OUR SWEET POTATO FRENCH TOAST IS REALLY, REALLY GOOD.

Man #4: THE "SPIKE LEE" -- IT'S LIKE A BREAKFAST BURRITO THAT THEY DO, WITH JALAPEÑO INSIDE IT -- IT'S GOOD.

JUST EGGS AND POTATOES.

YOU GOT THE "MONTE PYTHON."

OH, RIGHT, YEAH.

Woman #1: "YOU GOTTA HAVE IT" -- THAT'S THE NAME OF THE PLATE.

I MEAN, THEY ALL HAVE BASICALLY FUNNY NAMES, BUT THEY'RE BASICALLY, YOU KNOW, EGGS BENEDICT OR, YOU KNOW, THE MONTE CRISTO IS THE "MONTE PYTHON."

I HAD THE "BELLY PLEASER."

IT'S COCONUT MILK, JASMINE RICE PORRIDGE WITH CINNAMON AND MANGO.

IT WAS AMAZING.

I MEAN THE POTATO CAKES HERE REALLY ARE WHAT THEY'RE KNOW FOR.

AND I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS ABOUT THE POTATO CAKES HERE EXACTLY, EXCEPT THAT THEY'RE GOOD.

GOOD POTATO CAKES.

VERY GOOD POTATO CAKES.

GRITS.

GRITS!

CHEESE GRITS, YES!

Man #5: THIS IS THE "EVERYTHING NAUGHTY."

IT'S SCRAMBLED EGGS, BACON.

I'VE GOT A BISCUIT WITH ROSEMARY-MUSHROOM GRAVY.

I GOT -- WHAT WAS THIS?

THE "GOOD DOG."

THE "GOOD DOG."

THE "GOOD DOG."

THE HAVE THE "FETCH."

THE "STAY."

"GOOD DOG," "BAD DOG."

[ LAUGHS ] THIS IS ONE OF OUR FAVORITE BREAKFAST STOPS 'CAUSE WE CAN BRING THE DOG.

NICE SATURDAY-MORNING ACTIVITY.

ONLY IN PORTLAND CAN YOU BRING A DOG FOR BREAKFAST.

SINCE WE HAVE THIS GREAT OUTDOOR SPACE, WE THOUGHT IT WOULD BE A LOVELY THING TO PROVIDE FOLKS A PLACE THAT THEY CAN STOP AND EAT WHEN THEY HAVE THEIR DOGS.

IN THE SUMMERTIME, IT'S AWESOME TO HAVE THE WHOLE PATIO OPEN.

AND PEOPLE COME AND BRING THEIR DOGS.

Man #3: IT'S VERY PORTLAND.

IT'S VERY, YOU KNOW, CASUAL AND FRIENDLY.

Kaden: AND THEN WE THOUGHT, "WELL, THEIR DOGS ARE HERE.

THEY SHOULD GET SOMETHING TO EAT, TOO."

THEY ALSO MAKE DOG FOOD FOR THE DOGS WHILE THEY SIT AND EAT.

Woman #3: YOU CAN GET A LITTLE BOWL OF CHICKEN AND RICE.

Kaden: AND MY DAD HELPED ME NAME SOME OF THOSE MENU ITEMS, LIKE THE "HAM BARKER HELPER."

AND EVEN WHEN YOU SIGN UP TO WRITE DOWN HOW MANY PEOPLE, IT SAYS, "HOW MANY PEOPLE?"

AND "HOW MANY DOGS?"

Man #6: A TABLE AT TIN SHED IS LIKE A PRIZED COMMODITY.

PEOPLE WAIT FOR HOURS TO GET THAT.

ON A SATURDAY OR SUNDAY AND IT'S SUNNY, IT'S ABOUT 45 MINUTES PLUS, USUALLY.

YOU GET TO HAVE COFFEE WHILE YOU'RE IN THE LINE.

THERE ARE ALL SORTS OF PLACES TO SIT.

Woman #4: YEAH, THE WAIT IS PART OF IT, THAT'S WHY THEY HAVE SELF-SERVE COFFEE AND WATER EVERYWHERE.

YEAH, SELF-SERVE COFFEE.

I MEAN, WHY SHOULD WE BOTHER THE STAFF FOR COFFEE WHILE WE'RE WAITING FOR OUR TABLE?

Woman #2: I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS TRUE OR NOT.

IT DOESN'T SEEM LIKE A WHOLE LOT OF PEOPLE IN PORTLAND GO TO CHURCH.

BUT ON SUNDAY MORNING, EVERYONE GOES OUT FOR BRUNCH.

AND I THINK IT'S PORTLAND'S VERSION OF CHURCH.

IT'S WHERE YOU HAVE COMMUNITY AND YOU HAVE FOOD AND YOU HAVE THIS RELATIONAL TIME AND EVERYONE'S COMING TOGETHER.

Woman #1: YEAH, SO THE FOOD GETS ALL WRAPPED UP IN WHO MAKES IT AND WHAT THE, YOU KNOW -- WHAT THE COMMUNION WAS AT THE TIME THAT YOU WERE EATING.

Man #3: THE CHURCH OF THE TIN SHED.

YEAH, THAT'S WHAT WE CALL IT.

I THINK IT FEEDS A COMMUNITY NEED.

I LOVE THIS PLACE.

Sebak: AND IT'S NOT THE ONLY GAME IN TOWN.

Gerald: OH, YEAH, LIKE, IF YOU COME TO THE TIN SHED AND YOU SEE THIS HUGE LINE AND YOU THINK YOU DON'T WANT TO WAIT, YOU CAN GO ABOUT TWO BLOCKS THAT WAY, AND YOU'RE AT HELSER'S, WHICH IS ANOTHER GREAT PLACE.

Sebak: SO, ON ANOTHER DAY, WE CHECKED OUT HELSER'S, HELSER'S ON ALBERTA, WITH BREAKFAST WRITER PAUL GERALD AND ONE OF HIS FRIENDS.

PAUL IS THE BREAKFAST GUY.

Gerald: EVERY NOW AND THEN, IT ACTUALLY -- IT SOUNDS SILLY, BUT IT ACTUALLY FEELS LIKE A JOB SOMETIMES.

LIKE, "OH, MY GOD, I GOT TO GO TO BREAKFAST AGAIN."

YOU KNOW, AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, IT'S EMBARRASSING, BUT IT'S TRUE.

Sebak: SO HERE WE ARE AT HELSER'S, FOUNDED IN 2005 BY CHEF ALEX HELSER, WHO HAPPENED TO SEE THIS EMPTY STOREFRONT ONE DAY.

Helser: IT'S A REALLY GOOD SPACE, THOUGH.

IT'S GOT SO MANY WINDOWS.

I MEAN, I CAN'T LOSE WITH THAT.

AND WE GET COMMENTS ON THAT, YOU KNOW, SO IT'S KIND OF LIKE I FELL INTO A REALLY GOOD SPOT.

I WISH I COULD TAKE MORE CREDIT FOR IT.

I WISH I COULD TELL YOU THAT I HAD ALL THESE GREAT IDEAS, BUT THINGS HAVE JUST COME TOGETHER REALLY WELL FOR ME.

Sebak: THE PERSON WHO'S USUALLY OUT FRONT FIRST IS LEAH DOLAND, ONE OF THE SERVERS.

Doland: I GET HERE, USUALLY I OPEN.

ACTUALLY, I ALWAYS OPEN, SO I GET HERE ABOUT 6:30 AND GET THE PLACE ROLLING.

WE OPEN AT 7:00.

Helser: SHE'S FIVE DAYS A WEEK.

SHE'S MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY.

SHE'S THE -- SHE'S THE CHARMING ONE, YEP.

I LOVE SERVING BREAKFAST.

I THINK IT'S A LOT OF FUN.

BECAUSE IT'S THE START OF EVERYONE'S MORN-- EVERYONE'S DAY.

SOMETIMES IT'S THE FINISH OF THEIR DAY, BUT ONE WAY OR ANOTHER, IT'S A BEGINNING OR AN END.

HOW ARE YOU GUYS DOING TODAY?

GREAT.

HOW ARE YOU?

GOOD.

Woman: IT'S THE NEIGHBORHOOD, IT'S THE FOOD, IT'S THE FRIENDLY GIRLS HERE, AND... JUSTINE AND I COME EVERY FRIDAY AFTER WE DROP HER BROTHER OFF AT SCHOOL.

SO, CHRIS JUST HAPPENS TO HAVE THE DAY OFF TODAY, SO HE'S JOINING US.

COMING ALONG.

Woman #2: I LOVE THIS PLACE 'CAUSE I ALWAYS LOVE TO SIT AT THE BAR, AND THERE'S ALWAYS ROOM HERE -- NOT OUT THERE, BUT SOMETIMES HERE.

WE HAVE A REALLY GOOD GROUP OF PEOPLE, THOUGH.

I'M VERY LUCKY THAT WAY.

AND THAT'S PROBABLY, YOU KNOW, 9/10 OF THE BUSINESS.

Sebak: OF COURSE, A LOT OF THE BUSINESS IS IN THE KITCHEN, WHERE MARK WILMARTH AND A TEAM OF COOKS PUT THE FOOD TOGETHER.

Wilmarth: WHAT'S FUN ABOUT IT IS MAKING PEOPLE HAPPY WITH FOOD.

YOU KNOW, DESIGNING A PLATE WITH FOOD, MAKING IT LOOK PRETTY, YOU KNOW, GIVING IT TO THEM.

THAT'S -- I TAKE PRIDE IN THAT.

Doland: I LOVE THE FOOD, YEAH, WHICH MAKES IT REALLY FUN TO SERVE IT.

Woman #3: IT CAN BE A SPECIAL TREAT.

SOMETIMES WE GO FOR A REALLY LONG RUN AND THEN GIVES US AN EXCUSE TO COME HAVE BREAKFAST AND, LIKE, EAT WHATEVER WE WANT.

I GOT A HAM, BRIE, AND ASPARAGUS OMELET.

IT'S THE SPECIAL TODAY.

IT LOOKS GOOD.

I'VE ONLY BEEN HERE A COUPLE OF TIMES, BUT THEIR POTATOES ARE REALLY GOOD.

THEY HAVE VEGGIE SAUSAGE HERE, WHICH IS ALSO WHY I LIKE COMING HERE.

THE BEST THING HERE?

YOU KNOW, I LIKE THE SCOTCH EGGS.

AND I REALLY LIKE THE -- THE GERMAN PANCAKES.

Helser: THE GERMAN PANCAKES AND THE BUTTERMILK PANCAKES WERE MY GRANDMOTHER'S RECIPE, AND THOSE ARE THINGS I LIKED.

IT'S FUNNY, I HAD SOME FRIENDS FROM GERMANY, TWO OR THREE YEARS AGO, AND THEY LOOKED AT IT, AND I'M LIKE, "OH, THAT'S THE GERMAN PANCAKE."

THEY'RE LIKE, "WE'VE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THAT.

WE HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT IS."

OTHER PEOPLE KNOW THEM AS "DUTCH BABIES," AND IT'S KIND OF LIKE A CREPE BATTER, REALLY, YOU KNOW.

I DIDN'T REALLY HAVE A THEME.

IT'S JUST STUFF I LIKE TO EAT.

Woman #4: SO A COUPLE OF US STARTED TALKING ABOUT WHAT WE WANTED TO EAT, AND THEN WE ALL KIND OF SAID, "HELSER'S."

[ LAUGHS ] TODAY IS MY 30th BIRTHDAY.

AND ALL I WANTED WAS A SCOTCH EGG.

Wilmarth: YOU KNOW, YOU DON'T SEE SCOTCH EGGS AND POTATO PANCAKES ON MENUS VERY MUCH UP HERE.

MATTER OF FACT, THIS IS THE FIRST TIME I'VE EVER SEEN A SCOTCH EGG.

I MEAN, I'VE NEVER HAD THEM ANYWHERE ELSE, BUT THEY'RE REALLY GOOD HERE.

IT'S A HARD-BOILED EGG WRAPPED INSIDE A BRATWURST SAUSAGE AND THEN BREADED WITH PANKO AND DEEP-FRIED.

DOESN'T SOUND GREAT.

IT'S AWESOME.

IT'S SO GOOD.

Helser: ALMOST EVERYTHING, WE MAKE FROM SCRATCH HERE.

YOU KNOW, ALL OUR BATTERS AND THINGS LIKE THAT, WE MAKE THEM THROUGH THE DAY.

I GOT A PANCAKE WITH PEANUT BUTTER AND SYRUP AND A FRUIT PLATE.

WHAT I LIKE TO PURVEY TO MY CUSTOMERS IS, LIKE, I WANT TO BE 100% PREDICTABLE, BECAUSE I THINK BREAKFAST, FOR ME, IS LIKE, THAT'S THE ONE THAT CAN REALLY BUM ME OUT IF I DON'T HAVE A GOOD BREAKFAST AND A GOOD START TO MY DAY.

YEAH, I JUST SPREAD THE PEANUT BUTTER ON THE PANCAKE AND THEN POUR SYRUP OVER IT AND EAT IT.

IT'S GOOD.

Chris: SHE LOVES THAT SYRUP.

MY FAVORITE HERE ARE THE HASHES -- THE MUSHROOM HASH AND THE SALMON HASH.

Helser: SALMON HASH.

SALMON HASH IS KIND OF A -- IT'S KIND OF THAT -- I WOULD GUESS IT WOULD BE NORTHWEST, 'CAUSE SALMON'S A BIG NORTHWEST ITEM FOR US.

Gerald: THE SALMON IS JUST CULTURALLY AND HISTORICALLY A DEFINING SPECIES AND A DEFINING FOOD IN THE NORTHWEST, SO, NATURALLY, IT SHOWS UP ON THE BREAKFAST TABLE.

Helser: WE USE ACTUALLY SALMON LOX.

WE USE THE TRIM OF LOX SIDES.

SMOKED SALMON WITH SPINACH, POTATOES... WE MAKE A HOUSE HASH, WHICH IS YUKON GOLD POTATOES, GARLIC, SALT, AND ONIONS.

AND WE JUST ADD IT INTO THAT -- SPINACH, SALMON, POACHED EGGS, AND HOLLANDAISE.

IT'S ONE OF MY FAVORITE BREAKFASTS.

JUST WANT TO CURL UP AND TAKE A NAP AFTER IT, SO... WELL, IT'S REALLY YUMMY.

[ LAUGHS ] Gerald: YOU CAN'T GO WRONG -- SALMON, EGG, HOLLANDAISE.

WHAT?

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

I LOVE EGGS BENEDICT, AND THIS IS A GOOD ONE, AND THEY MAKE A NICE BLOODY MARY.

Helser: WE MAKE OUR OWN CRUMPET TO PUT UNDERNEATH THE BENEDICTS, SO NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE DO THAT.

IT WAS A GREAT IDEA AT THE TIME, IT SEEMED LIKE.

[ Laughing ] NOW IT'S -- NOW IT CONSUMES OUR TIME.

Doland: I LIKE BEING BUSY.

I LIKE THAT LEVEL OF INSANITY TO SOME DEGREE.

'CAUSE IT MAKES THE DAY GO.

IT'S A LOT OF FUN.

MAYBE IT'S A LITTLE BIT OF ADRENALINE RUSH.

Wilmarth: IT'S CHALLENGING STILL, AND THAT'S WHAT I LIKE IS TO, YOU KNOW, CHALLENGE MY BRAIN.

IT'S ALL MATH, YOU KNOW.

YOU'RE JUST CONSTANTLY DOING PROBLEMS AND WORKING IT OUT.

KEEPS ME YOUNG.

I'D SAY 95% OF OUR CLIENTELE IS REPEAT, PEOPLE WE'VE COME TO KNOW FOR THE LAST TWO YEARS, LOVE, AND WATCH THEIR KIDS, AND, YOU KNOW, ASK THEM HOW WORK IS, AND REALLY KNOW THEM.

I CAN BE A VERY DIFFICULT CUSTOMER SOMETIMES, AND THEY MAKE IT REALLY EASY ON ME, SO THAT'S WHY I COME BACK EVERY WEEK, ABOUT THREE TIMES A WEEK, SO... AND I BRING MY MOM HERE WHEN SHE WANTS TO MEET UP FOR BREAKFAST, TOO.

WELL, I CAN GENERALLY TELL WHERE THE FOOD'S GOING WHEN I SEE THE TICKETS.

LIKE I SEE A SIX-TOP.

I CAN SEE A SIX-TOP OUT THERE.

I KNOW WHERE IT'S GOING, AND I LOOK AT THEM WHEN THEY EAT IT.

AND THEY SMILE.

IT MAKES ME HAPPY.

Gerald: IT REALLY IS THE ATMOSPHERE, THE STAFF, YOU KNOW, THE PEOPLE THAT YOU SEE THERE EVERY TIME YOU GO IN, THE NEIGHBORHOOD, THE FACT THAT IT'S RIGHT DOWN THE STREET.

DO THEY LET YOU SIT THERE AND READ THE PAPER ALL MORNING?

THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT MAKE YOU LOVE A BREAKFAST PLACE.

THIS IS MY SPOT.

THIS IS MY SPOT.

WHEN I GO OUT FOR BREAKFAST, I COME HERE FOR BREAKFAST -- ON MY DAYS OFF.

Sebak: YOU KNOW, BEING A REGULAR AT A MEMORABLE BREAKFAST SPOT CAN BE ONE OF LIFE'S SPECIAL PLEASURES.

I EAT BREAKFAST IN A LOT OF PLACES.

IT'S THE ATMOSPHERE.

AND THERE'S PLACES IN ALL CITIES, WHETHER IT'S PARIS OR LONDON OR NEW YORK OR SAN FRANCISCO... BUT BREAKFAST IS VERY -- IT CAN BE VERY PERSONAL, ESPECIALLY IN A NEIGHBORHOOD OPERATION LIKE THIS.

...BECAUSE THE FOOD AND JUST WHERE THE PLACE IS, THE KIND OF PEOPLE THAT COME THERE... PART OF IT IS BECAUSE YOU CAN KEEP COMING BACK HERE, AND IT'S ALWAYS GREAT.

Woman: EARLY IN THE MORNING, EAT THE BREAKFAST IS EVERYBODY IMPORTANT FOR THE LIFE.

Man: SOME PEOPLE LOOK FOR THESE PLACES, DESPERATELY, YOU KNOW, AND THEY FIND THEM.

Sebak: AND KNOW THAT SEARCHING FOR A SPECIAL BREAKFAST CAN ALSO BE ONE OF LIFE'S MOST WONDERFUL PASTIMES.

YOU KNOW, IT'S MY FAVORITE MEAL, SO IF I COULD EAT BREAKFAST EVERY MEAL, I TOTALLY WOULD.

IN MY LIFE, DO I HAVE A BEST BREAKFAST?

MY FAVORITE OF ALL TIME IS SPAM.

RIGHT HERE -- THIS IS THE BEST BREAKFAST OF ANYONE'S LIFE.

THERE WAS A PLACE IN BOULDER, COLORADO.

THERE'S A PLACE THAT, FROM MY HOMETOWN... WHEN WE GO TO THE BLUE BENN IN VERMONT.

WE WENT TO SOUTH DAKOTA ON OUR HONEYMOON.

YEAH, ACTUALLY WAS A PLACE IN SAN FRANCISCO CALLED BOCELLI'S.

THE BEST BREAKFAST OF MY LIFE WAS AFTER I HAD MY SECOND CHILD, AND IT WAS ACTUALLY THE HOSPITAL'S BREAKFAST.

MEMORABLE BREAKFAST I EVER HAD WAS IN MONTREAL.

UP IN VICTORIA, AND IT WAS A HOTEL.

WE STOPPED AND IT WAS JUST A LITTLE CAFE.

BACK HOME, WHERE I'M FROM, WE HAVE "CREMA."

AND THEY HAD A 4-BY -- IT WAS CALLED A 4-BY-4.

I HAD THESE MAPLE SAUSAGES THAT WERE, YOU KNOW, AS THICK AS A HOSE.

FOUR EGGS, FOUR THINGS OF SAUSAGE, FOUR PANCAKES, AND FOUR OF SOMETHING ELSE.

AND I GOT A WHOLE FISH FOR BREAKFAST, SERVED IN MILK.

THAT'S ACTUALLY WHERE I LEARNED TO MAKE THE OMELETS THE WAY WE DO THEM.

MY BROTHER MAKES AMAZING BLUEBERRY PANCAKES.

NOBODY MAKES SCRAMBLED EGGS LIKE MY DAD.

MY DAD'S PANCAKES.

I HAD EGGS, PANCAKES, SAUSAGE... ABOUT HALFWAY THROUGH THE OMELET, HE JUST BROUGHT ME A BLUEBERRY PANCAKE.

AND THEN YOU ROLL IT UP.

BUT IT TASTED LIKE THE MOST AMAZING BREAKFAST I'D EVER HAD.

TRULY ONE OF THE BEST MEMORIES OF MY CULINARY CAREER.

IT WAS A GREAT -- IT WAS A GREAT, GREAT MEAL.

IT WAS A GREAT BREAKFAST.

THAT WAS AWESOME.

SPAM, FRIED EGGS, AND GARLIC RICE, KETCHUP, AND A CUP OF COFFEE?

CAN'T GO WRONG WITH THAT ONE.

AM I FINISHED?

BECAUSE MY BACK HURTS.

I'M TIRED.

I'VE BEEN WORKING HERE FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS.

I WANT TO GO LAY DOWN.

REAL MEN DON'T EAT RAISINS IN THEIR OATMEAL.

GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT.

YOU KNOW, YOU THINK BACON IS BREAKFAST AND EGGS -- OR... I DON'T THINK THAT'S APPROPRIATE FOR AN OMELET TO BE TREATED THAT WAY.

I SHOULD BE LIKE GIADA.

EVERY MOVEMENT SHE MAKES IS, LIKE, SO SENSUAL.

HAVE YOU EVER WATCHED HER ON TV?

EVERYTHING SHE DOES IS, LIKE, SO SEXY.

Man: YOU GOT A WAYS TO GO, PAL.

I KNOW.

I CAN'T DO THAT.

[ ALARM CLOCK BUZZING ] ♪ EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE ♪ EE-EE-EE-EE-EE ♪ IT'S BREAKFAST TIME ♪ FOR YOU AND I-EE ♪ EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE ♪ EE-EE-EE-EE-EE ♪ ANYTHING SPECIAL ♪ YOU'D LIKE TO TRY-EE?

♪ YOU CAN HAVE YOUR EGGS THREE MINUTES OR FASTER ♪ ♪ OVER EASY, SUNNY SIDE UP, OR MORNING AFTER ♪ ♪ EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE-EE ♪ EE-EE-EE-EE-EE ♪ YOU FRY UP THE BACON ♪ YOU PUT THE BATTER IN THE PAN ♪ ♪ YOU GRAVY THE BISCUITS ♪ DON'T FLOP WHEN YOU FLIP IT ♪ ♪ HONEY, LET'S JAM ♪ IT'S BREAKFAST TIME ♪ THAT SOUNDS FINE "BREAKFAST SPECIAL" WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY THE CORPORATION FOR PUBLIC BROADCASTING AND BY CONTRIBUTIONS TO YOUR PBS STATION FROM VIEWERS LIKE YOU.

THANK YOU BREAKFAST SPECIAL IS AVAILABLE ON DVD TO ORDER, VISIT SHOPPBS.ORG OR CALL US AT 1-800-PLAY-PBS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT "BREAKFAST SPECIAL" AND OTHER PBS PROGRAMS, VISIT PBS.ORG DID YOU GUYS EAT?

Man: NO.

WE'RE GONNA EAT RIGHT NOW.

OH, GOOD.

THEN AM I FINISHED?

OH, SURE, I'LL JUST FORGET THIS LARGE CAMERA THAT'S A FOOT AND A HALF FROM MY FACE -- NO WORRIES.

IF I GOT A REAL GREASY FOREHEAD, CAN YOU PHOTOSHOP THAT OUT?

I DIDN'T SHAVE JUST FOR THE OCCASION.

AND I DO THINK BACON IS SOME WONDERFUL THING FROM HEAVEN THAT WAS SENT TO US.

TELL MATT CONRAD IT FEELS WEIRD!

THIS LOOKS LIKE A DUST MOP.

I'M TELLING YOU.

HE'S WALKING AROUND THE BREAKFAST CLUB ALL DAY LONG WITH THIS DUST MOP, GETTING ME NERVOUS.

TAKE US WITH YOU?

I'M REALLY GOOD AT CARRYING THINGS.

I ENJOYED IT.

WE DID, TOO.